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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients
Sun Care
BASF Care Creations 4.0 Sunscreen Simulator Update
This digital tool supports the development of sunscreens and is updated to integrate cockpit functionality and evaluate the interaction of UV filters and emollients.
SPF/Sun
Effective Sunscreens for Everyone Under the Sun
Today, we take the effectiveness of sunscreen products for granted. As the industry knows, this performance is not simply a happy coincidence. Here, we review the steps in the sun care R&D process and consider where questions may arise.
Sun Care
Preserve and Protect: Shielding the Sunscreen Umbrella
The sunscreen market is trending toward higher SPF levels, but these formulas tend to be more difficult to preserve. This study shows how high-SPF sunscreens can be adequately preserved using nontraditional approaches combining antimicrobials and multifunctional additives with boosting aids.
Regional
European Commission Authorizes MBBT Sunscreens
The European Commission (EC) announced amendments to Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, aka the Cosmetics Regulation, regarding newly authorized sunscreens.
Actives
Patent Pick: Fullerene Sunscreens for Next-gen Protection
Simplify, simplify, simplify. Poetic words on life from Thoreau, and a more recent edict from consumers—for product labels, that is. This notion is echoed by researchers at the Cleveland Clinic Foundation, in a new sunscreen patent application.
Sun Protection
Adapting SPF Testing Methods for Mineral Sunscreen Density
A sunscreen layer’s thickness is critical to its SPF. However, current regulations specify a mass application rate for testing, rather than a volumetric application rate. This significantly underrates the SPF values of mineral sunscreens due to their higher densities since, compared with their relative organic counterparts, thinner films are being tested, as will be shown here.
Literature/Data
Curcumin Nanoparticles May Be Viable Adjuvant for Sunscreen
Mice pretreated with curcumin nanoparticles had less erythema and inflammation, decreased apoptosis and less p53 expression following exposure to UVB than those in the control group.
Sun Care
Dr.Jart+ Sunscreen Applies Cosmax Space-resistant Extremophiles
Dr.Jart+ extends its Solarbiome-based line of microbiome-focused skin care with an SPF 50+ sunscreen ampoule.
Sun Care
AACR Study Suggests Sunscreen Message Still Needs Work
Although, more people are using sunscreen now than in past years, the industry still has a ways to go, according to a study conducted by the American Association for Cancer Research (AACR). The study found that not only do only 17.2% of Americans use sunscreen on a regular basis, but only 32% of melanoma survivors wear sunscreen regularly.
Literature/Data
Research Suggests a Need for After-sun Sunscreen
According to a report from Yale, the damage caused by UV radiation continues hours after the sun exposure occurred. In the described study, melanocytes generated CPDs both immediately and hours after UV exposure had ended. This may suggest the need for “evening-after” sunscreen, designed to block energy-transfer.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Dermatologist Promotes Sunscreen and Antiaging Benefits of Nanotechnology
Nanotechnology can have positive affects on aesthetics, efficacy and delivery when formulated into skin care and sun care products, according to Adnan Nasir, MD, PhD, FAAD, a dermatologist and clinical assistant professor in the department of dermatology at the University of North Carolina.
Sun Care
Patent Pick: L'Oréal Steps Up the Sunscreen Game
Pop Quiz: What does it take to achieve a high SPF, high UV-A rated sunscreen within the U.S. FDA's sunscreen filter constraints? This isn't a game; it's the focus of a new patent application from L'Oréal. Read on to learn more.
Sun Care
Increase Performance of Sunscreen Actives with Zemea® Propanediol
Improve your sun care formulations without compromising performance or aesthetics with Zemea® Propanediol. It is non-irritating, provides increased moisturization and excellent sensory characteristics eliminating stickiness and greasiness.
Literature/Data
Sinapic Acid Esters Could Replace Octinoxate in Sunscreens
Research published in
Antioxidants
highlights a potential alternative to octinoxate for UVB protection and antioxidant effects:
p
-hydroxycinnamic esters from naturally occurring sinapic acid.
Sun Care
The Quest for Avobenzone Stabilizers and Sunscreen Photostability
Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane (BMDBM) is well-known as an effective UVA filter when it is stabilized. Here, the authors measure the efficiency of ten commercially available products that are reported to stabilize BMDBM. The most effective product found was octocrylene that, being a UVB filter, also contributed to the SPF.
Sun Care
Feel and Function: Attuning Attributes in Mineral Sunscreens
Formulators are increasingly being tasked with creating new sun care formulations based on TiO2 and/or ZnO. This paper will review and update current knowledge on how best to use inorganic sunscreens to develop effective and elegant sunscreen products.
Actives
Using Zinc Oxide in Sunscreen Products
While zinc oxide had been used for decades in sunscreen products — remember the white coating on lifeguards’ noses? — it was only approved for this use by the FDA approximately 10 years ago. Prior to that, it was actually considered to be (and still is) an approved skin protectant material.
Sun Care
UV Booster for Organic Sunscreen Actives
Croda has introduced a patented citrate ester demonstrating benefits in sun protection. The booster works with organic sunscreen actives to optimize absorption of the UVA spectra and prevent damage to the skin.
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