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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients

Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings

In this monthly survey of recent patent and literature research, the author describes money-making ideas in the personal care industry, ranging from a water-soluble scrubbing agent and black truffle for cell proliferation, to ascorbyl palmitate nanocrystals and an o/w emulsion for eyelash-volumizing and lengthening, among others.

Ascorbyl Lactoside: A New Vitamin C Derivative for Effective Skin Whitening

A new vitamin C derivative, ascorbyl lactoside (AsL), was synthesized and characterized for its stability and safety, and evaluated for anti-tyrosinase and melanin reduction effects. The material showed excellent whitening effects and exhibited better stability than ascorbic acid. It also possessed the lowest cytotoxicity, in comparison with ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid and arbutin.

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Naturally Inhibit Fragrance Degradation: Rice Bran Sterols in Emulsions

The use of phytosterols is proposed here to retard the deterioration of cosmetic emulsions caused by perfume degradation. For the described tests, phytosterols from crude rice bran oil, a natural and economic choice, were used. A simple and easily controlled technique is described through which the phytosterols provided the desired results.

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Pop the Cork: Quercus suber for Naturally Sourced Antioxidants and Emulsion Stability

Consumers demand better and more sustainable alternatives. Further, some bioactive ingredients register greater biocompatibility. This has driven the industry to search for plant-derived compounds with biological activity. Quercus suber L., or cork oak, is shown here to provide an interesting option.

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6 New Trends in Cosmetic Technology

The topics described during in this conference session were but a sampling of innovation scattered throughout the in-cosmetics Global show floor. But their overall tone seemed to accurately reflect a larger future direction of the industry.

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Supplier Forum: Hair Repair on New Fronts

Many hairstyling techniques, the environment and more can cause hair damage. This month's Supplier Forum highlights emerging scientific concepts to repair and nourish the scalp and hair.

Silica Nanoparticles for Increased Cosmetic Ingredient Efficacy*

Nanotechnology is a rapidly expanding area of research for developing science-based solutions for innovative therapeutics. Recently, silica nanoparticles (SNPs) have emerged in cosmetics and dermal preparations, offering revolutionary application by controlling the sustained release of cosmetic ingredients and/or drugs and enhanced skin penetration.

Aquaporins: Stimulation by Vitamins, Steroids and Sugar Alcohols

Aquaporins are proteins that reside in the cellular membrane. In response to osmotic forces, they control the passage of specific materials into and out of the cell. As reported previously, one type of aquaporin in human skin is aquaporin-3 (AQP3). Four personal care companies have studied the world of biochemicals to discover AQP3 stimulators from three different sources: vitamins, steroids and sugar alcohols, which are described here.

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Anti-pollution Cosmetics: In the Face of a Changing Environment

Pollution in different forms and media can cause skin distress of various types. In response, leading global cosmetic companies are turning to a full spectrum of anti-pollution ingredients for answers. Both the negative effects of pollution on skin, and ingredients and products to protect against this damage are reviewed here.

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Testing Tactics in Skin: A View of Visible Light Protection

Blue light, in particular, may be responsible for most of the adverse skin reactions caused by visible wavelengths. This column reviews methods to screen for materials that protect against blue light but also allow its benefits to shine through.

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Expert Opinions on Well Aging and Radiance: Pearl Skin, Fermented, Mood Enhancing, Longevity Focused, Bio-targeted, etc.

Innovators will have to dig deep to respond to consumers' longing for that youthful, radiant glow; whether through supplements, biological targets, mental wellness, etc. Beauty has been elevated beyond skin deep; perhaps even further than ever imagined.

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Facial Sheet Masks on the Go: Reviving the Face

Facial sheet masks have numerous benefits, such as delivering active materials to the skin and leaving the face feeling moisturized. Innovations in sheet masks are on the rise, and formulators are searching for new materials that are safer, friendlier for the skin and environment, and sensorially pleasing.

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Formulating Lip Gloss

Lip glosses combine the properties of color cosmetics and lip balm to offer high shine, lip enhancement and pleasantness, accompanied by protection and soothing benefits. To offer these properties, lip glosses must incorporate a complex blend of oils, waxes, thickeners and tackifiers. Various modern technologies allow the formulator to assemble sensorially enchanting lip glosses.

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Spot-lightening Treatments

Facial pigmentation increases with age and sun exposure, and represents an aesthetic problem for many. Multiple strategies are required for the cosmetic treatment of such imperfections, including accelerating skin renewal, inhibiting free radicals, providing photoprotection, prohibiting melanin granule formation and transfer, reducing pigmentation with sequestering agents, and enhancing skin penetration. These are described here.

Protection of Retinol in Organosilica Microparticles

In this article, retinol encapsulated in organosilica microparticles (12–14% w/w) having an average particle size of 0.3 micron are shown in a 40-day test period to exhibit enhanced stability to oxidation when compared with similar commercial stabilized retinol products.

Aquaporins: Stimulation by Vitamins, Steroids and Sugar Alcohols

Aquaporins are proteins that reside in the cellular membrane. In response to osmotic forces, they control the passage of specific materials into and out of the cell. As reported previously, one type of aquaporin in human skin is aquaporin-3 (AQP3). Four personal care companies have studied the world of biochemicals to discover AQP3 stimulators from three different sources: vitamins, steroids and sugar alcohols, which are described here.

Green Formulations: Not All Components Are Equal

In the consumer’s mind, a natural or green cosmetic is automatically safe; however, the safety, quality and efficacy of botanical ingredients used in formulations need to be carefully assessed. Stability is also an important issue. Current research is directing analyses of final formulations to evaluate not only their cosmetic raw materials, but also their active materials.

Bioactive Proliposome-coated Mica for Facial Powders

The article discusses the preparation of proliposome-coated mica harboring bioactives from plant origin that have skin whitening and lightening effects. The treated mica is incorporated into facial powder for skin-smoothing, -moisturizing and -lightening properties, which are evaluated here.

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