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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients

Bromelain and papain are food enzymes found respectively in pineapple and papaya, and often used as cosmetic ingredients.

Enzymology: Accelerating Success in the Skin Care Market

While the benefits of enzymes have long been known, interest in enzymology for cosmetic and dermatological applications has grown. Advances in the functionality, safety and stability of enzymes are accelerating skin care product development; some are described here.

“Consumers …[expect products to be] innovative, effective, long-lasting, sensitive skin friendly and [to protect] the skin from external aggressors.'

Care for Compromised Skin: Anti-climate Change, Barrier Health, Microbiome, Pollution Protection and Clinical Efficacy

What does the industry see as drivers in the current and future “compromised skin care” segment? We asked several experts to weigh in. Following are their responses.

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Phenoxyethanol as a Safe and Important Preservative in Personal Care

The effective preservation of personal care products and cosmetics is vitally important to inhibit microbial growth. Phenoxyethanol has a long history as an effective preservative, with well-documented human and environmental safety profiles. This is a valuable option in formulators’ and microbiologists’ toolboxes for safe and effective control of microbial growth, as is reviewed here.

Slowing Intrinsic and Extrinsic Aging: A Dual Approach

In this dual approach to antiaging, intrinsic factors are first addressed by slowing cell proliferation in skin via a technology based on dormins—in this case, extracts from dormant Narcissus tazetta bulb. Then, to protect against extrinsic aging, colorless carotenoids are employed to absorb UV radiation and prevent oxidative stress damage.

Patent Picks—Copper-bound Botanicals, Skin Pigment Regulation, Antioxidants and More

Chosen biweekly by Rachel Grabenhofer, editor, for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features recently issued patents relevant to skin care and health.

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Anti-pollution Cosmetics: In the Face of a Changing Environment

Pollution in different forms and media can cause skin distress of various types. In response, leading global cosmetic companies are turning to a full spectrum of anti-pollution ingredients for answers. Both the negative effects of pollution on skin, and ingredients and products to protect against this damage are reviewed here.

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Expert Opinions on Well Aging and Radiance: Pearl Skin, Fermented, Mood Enhancing, Longevity Focused, Bio-targeted, etc.

Innovators will have to dig deep to respond to consumers' longing for that youthful, radiant glow; whether through supplements, biological targets, mental wellness, etc. Beauty has been elevated beyond skin deep; perhaps even further than ever imagined.

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The New Stir in Anti-aging: Small-chain Algal Peptides to Regulate Sulfur

Sulfur regulators such as small chain peptides (SCPs) and sulfide donors are an untapped sector for cosmetic science. The present work explores a natural compound to up-regulate cellular sulfur, affect the cell cycle and reduce signs of aging.

Stem Cells, Wellness and Claims Substantiation Take Center Stage at IFSCC Congress

The 2012 IFSCC Congress opened with a frenzy; the "African Frenzy" dancers, that is, and enlightened attendees over three days with 65+ presentations and more than 150 posters.

Nature-inspired Innovation

The intersection of R&D and consumer needs.

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Microalgal Bio-retinoid: A Retinol Alternative to Gently Rewind Signs of Photoaging

This article compares the efficacy of a bio-retinoid from microalga with that of retinol and bakuchiol to reverse signs of photoaging in vitro. Its efficacy, safety and skin-soothing effects vs. retinol and bakuchiol are also explored in clinical trials.

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Secrets to Shaping Beauty into Body Care: How Claims, Ingredients and Challenges Translate

What's driving the body care boom? How do beauty trends translate? Here, we explore new launches and insights from Anushka Nadkarni, Bentley Labs; Ron Robinson, BeautyStat; Rita Silva, DECIEM; and Jean-Christophe Choulot, Caudalíe, to find out.

Solid Polyethylene Microspheres for Effects in Color Cosmetics

Advances in manufacturing solid polyethylene microspheres have enabled their development in various colors as well as controlled traits such as opacity, specific gravity, particle size distribution and electrostatic charge. These traits can be leveraged by formulators to create new effects in color cosmetics, described here.

Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropyl Sulfonate For Sulfate Free Formulations

Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropyl Sulfonate for Sulfate-free Formulations

The use of sulfonated alkyl polyglucosides (SAPG) to replace lauryl sulfates and lauryl ether sulfates in sulfate-free formulations has previously been discussed. These primary surfactants were created with environmental and human safety in mind. The current paper describes more recent work with this material, specifically focusing on the lauryl version of SAPG.

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Startup Solutions: A Survey of Green and Sustainable Innovations

Today is perhaps the most active time in decades for startup firms focused on natural (non-synthetic) and sustainable materials, replacement ingredients, green chemistry and fermentation technologies. This paper surveys several of them.

The Harvest of Marine-derived Cosmetic Ingredients: A Case Study of Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae

This paper reviews the knowledge and nature of the harvest practices for the octocoral Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae. P. elisabethae extract has been used for nearly two decades in cosmetics and preparations for skin benefits, and a review of the harvest provides product developers with an interesting case study of the harvest of a marine resource.

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Helping Hands: Building Soothing, Protecting, Repair and Care Products

This article explores key aspects for formulating safe and effective hand care products. In relation, it considers core aspects of skin barrier functioning and offers solutions to protect, repair and enhance them.

Anti-aging Skin Care Benefits of Saccharina longicruris Extract

Aging triggers the modification of gene expression levels, negatively affecting skin’s ultrastructural integrity and resulting in dry, saggy skin and the appearance of wrinkles. However, an extract of Saccharina longicruris has been found to restore the expression levels of specific genes in senescent fibroblasts, in turn improving barrier function and hydration, increasing elasticity and reducing wrinkles, which are described in this article.

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