Patent Picks—Pseudolipids, Binding Peptides, Active Sponges, Preserving Functionality and More in Skin Care

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources, and cover recent patents issued, or applied for, in the cosmetic and personal care industries and relevant peripheral markets. This edition features inventions related to skin care and moisturization.

Pseudolipid complex and topical composition
U.S. Patent 8546361
Publication date: Oct. 1, 2013
Assignee: Amorepacific Corp.

Described in this patent is a pseudolipid mixture with improved phase stability and a structure similar to that of the stratum corneum. When employed in a topical composition, it can retain water and other beneficial materials for moisturization and barrier repair capabilities. The mixture is composed of a pseudoceramide, a cholesterol, and a stearic acid.

Oil-in-water emulsion for moisture retention, sustained effects
European Patent Application EP2644188
Publication date: Oct. 2, 2013
Assignee: Shiseido Company Ltd.

The object of this invention is to provide an oil-in-water emulsified skin cosmetic manifesting superior effects in improving spreadability on skin, absorption into the skin, absence of stickiness, emollient sensations, taut sensations, and wrinkles/sagging. It is also reportedly superior in terms of moisture retention, and therefore sustains the emollient sensation. Specifically, the invention comprises acetylated hyaluronic acid, a specific polymethacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine derivative, non-emulsifying cross-linked silicone, glycerin, polyvinyl alcohol, an acrylamide type thickener, and an oil component in the amount of 25% w/w.

Actives-infused sponge delivery system
U.S. Patent 8546640
Publication date: Oct. 1, 2013
Assignee: Evriholder Products, LLC

The present invention is directed to sponges and similar flexible, three-dimensional, water-absorbent substrate materials infused with conditioning/moisturizing and/or other active ingredients for application to a wet substrate, preferably wet skin or hair (i.e., after washing). The solid anhydrous composition infused into the sponge is mixed with water remaining on the substrate, thereby forming an emulsion that is substantive to and remains on the substrate for a period of time sufficient to meet the desired consumer need, e.g., moisturization, protection from ultraviolet radiation, imparting an artificial tan, etc.

Said anhydrous composition comprises: a) at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of cationic quaternary surfactants, anionic surfactants or nonionic surfactants or one multi-lamellar liquid crystal emulsifier system, b) at least one fatty alcohol, c) at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of cosmetically-acceptable oils, esters and liquid triglycerides, d) at least one active ingredient and e) optionally, a solid cleansing agent having a melting point from about 50°C to about 70°C. Preferred active ingredients include emollients, humectants, conditioning agents, sunscreens and artificial tanning agents.

Liquid crystals to preserve the active functions of ingredients
U.S. Patent 8546593
Publication date: Oct. 1, 2013
Assignee: Copperhead Chemical Company, Inc.

According to these inventors, preserving the active functions of ingredients, i.e., antibacterial, emollient, moisturizing, humectants, exfoliating, etc., in complex systems is often problematic. Specifically, it has been found that many common emulsifying mechanisms, such as the use of surfactants and emulsifiers with various HLB values and combinations thereof, can render active ingredients ineffective; here, the act of emulsifying glycerol monolaurate with traditional emulsifiers resulted in a non-antimicrobial product.

The present invention therefore addresses this long-standing problem with formulations of highly soluble, stable liquid crystal mixtures of biologically active fatty acid esters (salts and/or glycerol(s)) in an anhydrous polyhydric alcohol system in which the anti-microbial action of the fatty acid esters is also maintained. The liquid crystal mixture essentially is comprised of at least one fatty acid ester or fatty acid, at least one polyhydric solvent, and at least one alkali reactant. The resultant mixture includes at least one fatty acid ester or fatty acid, at least one polyhydric solvent, and at least one salt of said fatty acid ester or fatty acid. The final mixture exhibits enhanced stability and aqueous solubility of fatty acids and fatty acid esters.

Modified galactomannan ethers to improve deposition
U.S. Patent 8546559
Publication date: Oct. 1, 2013
Assignee: Lamberti SpA

Described herein are cationic hydrophobically modified galactomannan ethers having a cationic degree of substitution from 0.01 to 0.5 and hydrophobic degree of substitution below 0.001. The ethers are readily soluble in aqueous systems and useful to thicken, stabilize and condition cosmetics, detergent compositions and household cleaning products; they further improve the deposition of other ingredients on the treated surface, such as skin, hair or fabric.

Skin- and Hair-specific binding peptides
U.S. Patent 8546528
Publication date: Oct. 1, 2013
Assignee: Danisco US Inc.

According to this patent, various methods may be used to select and identify compounds capable of binding to a target in the presence of undesired background targets, or "anti-targets," using libraries of similar compounds. This invention is directed to peptides that bind specifically to a target in the presence of an anti-target; here, the anti-target for hair is skin, and the anti-target for skin is hair. In one application, the skin or hair binding peptides may be applied in personal care lotions, creams, gels, sprays, shampoos and conditioners: a) using a skin binding peptide with an emollient to enhance the moisturizing properties of the emollient; b) combining a skin binding peptide with a bleaching or tanning agent to enhance skin bleaching or tanning properties; c) combining a skin binding peptide with a sunscreen for topical application; and/or d) combining a hair binding peptide with a dye or oxidizing agent to enhance the hair coloring formulation.

'Greener' arginine derivative for skin softening, conditioning
European Patent EP2377848
Publication date: Oct. 2, 2013
Assignee: NOF Corp.

Amino acids have reportedly been used widely as cosmetic raw materials as they are excellent in biocompatibility and environmental compatibility. Many attempts at derivatization have been made to further these functionalities. Among major amino acids, arginine has a guanidinyl group that is excellent for absorption into the skin and hair, so various arginine derivatives have been developed.The present invention relates to a novel arginine derivative, a process for producing the same and a cosmetic containing it. This novel derivative has excellent skin softening effects and skin-conditioning effects, and its feel during use is satisfactory, with minimal sticky or tense feel. Furthermore, its production process suppresses the generation of impurities resulting from side reactions.

Soothing cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising a peptide which activates HMG-CoA reductase United States Patent 8546339 Publication Date: 10/01/2013 Assignee: ISP Investments Inc. (Wilmington, DE, US) Abstract: Soothing cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition that includes at least one peptide as an active principle that activates human HMG-CoA reductase of general formula (I): R1-(AA)n-X1-Gly-Lys-X2-(AA)p-R2 and is chosen from among sequences SEQ ID NO: 1 to SEQ ID NO: 10, in a physiologically suitable medium is described. This novel peptide is designed to act as a soothing active principle capable of providing a solution to skin sensitivity in a cosmetic composition. The invention further applies to a cosmetic treatment method intended to combat skin irritations.

More in Literature/Data