New Technologies

Palmitoyl pentapeptide: Robinson et al. report on the topical use of palmitoyl pentapeptide to improve photoaged human facial skin.1 The palmitoyl pentapeptide palmitoyl-lysine-threoninethreonine- lysine-serine (pal-KTTKS) is a synthetic material that was designed as a topical agent to stimulate collagen production and thus provide a skin antiwrinkle benefit.


To determine if pal-KTTKS is effective, Robinson et al. conducted a clinical study. Caucasian female subjects (n = 93, aged 35–55) participated in a 12- week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face, left-right randomized clinical study assessing two topical products: moisturizer control product vs. the same moisturizer product containing 3 ppm pal-KTTKS. Pal-KTTKS was well-tolerated by the skin and provided signifi cant improvement vs. placebo control for reduction in wrinkles and fi ne lines by both quantitative technical and expert grader image analysis. In self-assessments, subjects also reported signifi cant improvements in fine lines and wrinkles, and noted directional effects for other facial improvement parameters.


Oligopeptides: Benoit et al. describe the use of oligopeptides derived from Hibiscus esculentus seeds to smooth expression lines.


In its search for innovative approaches to reverse the visible signs of aging, the cosmetic dermatological industry has embraced a powerful molecule capable of temporarily relieving facial expression lines: botulic toxin. This neurotoxin inactivates the neuromuscular junction, thereby locally paralyzing muscle contraction. When injected at appropriate locations on the face, this toxin inhibits contraction of facial muscles, preventing the appearance and imprinting of dynamic wrinkles or expression lines.

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