Cosmetics & Toiletries Announces Finalists for Best New Ingredient

Cosmetics & Toiletries is excited to announce the finalists for its 2014 R&D Awards program, which recognizes the ingenuity and science in ingredients behind finished cosmetics and personal care products. Each nomination was reviewed by a highly esteemed international panel of experts, and ratings were given for significance to the industry and long-term impact.

The top four finalists for Best New Ingredient, in random order, are:

Silab, for its Volunage purified active ingredient, which contains oligosaccharides from the root of peony (Paeonia albiflora)—a medicinal plant used in traditional Chinese medicine. This ingredient is the first to act via the communication between the reticular dermis and hypodermis, to preserve functions of the hypodermis. The ingredient counteracts the loss of structure and corrects skin slackening; as skin is re-densified, the volume of the face is increased and its oval shape is restored.

Sederma, for its Venuceane IR biotechnological ferment, which acts by an adaptive response to heat increase to counteract infrared-induced ROS production. The ingredient improves hydration by protecting mitochondrial integrity, reduces inflammation and prevents the denaturation of matrix macromolecules to limit wrinkle formation. Obtained from the culture of deep sea Thermus thermophilus, it contains multifunctional enzymes and is the first of its kind demonstrated to protect against both UV and IR damage and effectively fight photo-aging.

Clariant International, for its Nipaguard Zero preservative. As the regulatory pressure for parabens and methylisothiazolinone is steadily increasing and formulators look for alternatives, Clariant has developed the next generation of preservatives based on the novel, 100% renewable preservative booster sorbitan caprylate. These new blends are suitable for leave-on and rinse-off formulations. They also are easy to formulate and provide safe preservation at low concentrations. An Ecocert option also is available.

Finally, Korea Particle Technology, for its Emulsion Pearls technology, which enables o/w emulsions to be transformed into soft beads or spheres. These pearls may be colored, produced in different sizes and loaded with most additives, including actives, scrubs and pigments. They can be used in water-free liquid systems for visual effects, specific functions or sensory effects. They may also be used in o/w vehicles, gels, serums, etc. This technology provides a new platform for multifunctional effects.

“All the entries this year were very interesting,” said Rachel Grabenhofer, editor of Cosmetics & Toiletries. “In fact, one of the judges congratulated us for the excellent entries. She noted the judging was difficult because all entries were very relevant and strategic that ‘until recently, had been gaps in what we have available to us as formulators.’”

Learn first-hand who wins by attending the Awards Ceremony on April 1, 2014 at in-cosmetics in Hamburg. If you are unable to attend in-cosmetics, sign up to receive the announcement via the Cosmetics & Toiletries E-newsletter.

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