Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine Announces R&D Award Winners

At the Suppliers' Reception at In-Cosmetics in Milan, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine announced the winners for its 2011 R&D Awards, which honor one new ingredient for its innovative design and one finished product for the novelty and craft of its formulation.

Rachel Grabenhofer, editor for Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, presented the awards, explaining, “This year’s awards have been repositioned as the ‘R&D Awards’ to recognize innovation in both research and development.” She added that the finalists were chosen by an esteemed panel of international experts from a mix of manufacturers and universities and were rated based on their significance to the industry and long-term impact. A separate and equally prestigious panel rated the finalists to determine the winners. “There were some 40+ entries and the ratings were very close,” said Grabenhofer. “All the finalists should be congratulated for making the final cut.”

The winner for Best New Technology was Croda Europe Ltd., for its Solaveil SpeXtra inorganic UV absorber. This inorganic UV filter is based on titanium dioxide and enables the production of high SPF sunscreen products that meet the European Commission’s 1/3 UVA protection factor guidelines. While other sunscreens have been produced that meet these guidelines, they are based on cocktails of ingredients that are sometimes unsuitable for sensitive skin, and whose SPF performance is often limited. Solaveil SpeXtra is a single, natural, photostable technology developed via a new thermal process for treating inorganic particles to ensure that exact particle sizes are achieved to block UVA radiation while maintaining SPF performance.

After winning the award, research manager Ian Tooley of the sun care and biopolymers team for Croda Europe Ltd., commented, “Standard grades of titanium dioxide typically focus solely on UVB attenuation, whereas Solaveil SpeXtra has been optimized to also provide high levels of UVA attenuation. UVA protection has become increasingly important in sun care as the effects of skin cancer related to UVA exposure have become more apparent.”

The winner for Most Creative Application was Iredale Mineral Cosmetics, for its Tantasia natural self-tanner. This formula works with the user’s own melanin to develop a safe, long-lasting and natural tan. Acetyl tyrosine and Monk’s Pepper stimulate melanin synthesis, allowing the developing shade to mimic the user’s natural tanned color. The contribution of both ingredients activates a regular, even and persistent tan while simultaneously enhancing the natural protection factor of the skin against UV radiation. Further, wheat protein provides soothing, natural hydration while vegetable-sourced natural silicone imparts a silky feeling. This product is reportedly free from any after-scent, and has been sensitivity-tested for use on the body or face.

"We're very excited and honored by this award," said Jane Iredale, founder of the company,who described how the Tantasia concept came about. "I think the idea for the product came about from the fact that we’ve been very conscious about sun care protection and sunscreens. Last year, [Iredale] received the seal of approval for our mineral powders [for natural sun care protection], and so the Tantasia product seemed the next logical step, especially for the consumer that struggles to tan yet wants to be a bronze goddess." She added, “I think it’s sort of a love/hate relationship that consumers have with tanners because they either don’t like the smell, the effect, or putting chemicals on their bodies. ... This product provides a more natural way of tanning that also looks more natural. In addition, it adds moisture to the skin, so it’s like applying a lotion."

In addition to the winners, the finalists were recognized.

Finalists for Best New Technology included: Beiersdorf AG, for its Glycerylglucose (Gluco-Glycerol) moisturizing technology; X-Rite Inc., for its VS450 non-contact spectrophotometer; and Silab, for its Retilactyl D natural anti-aging active.

Finalists for Most Creative Application category included: Skin Health Technology LLC, for its vitamin D UV activation sensors; Immanence Integral Dermo-Correction (IDC), for its Ultim-Age mature skin care; and Better Way (Thailand) Co., Ltd., for its Mistine No. 1 Fusion High Definition Powder Foundation SPF 25.

Presented annually, the Cosmetics & Toiletries R&D Awards will accept submissions for 2012 soon—check back at for details (forthcoming).

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