Scientific Advisory Board
The industry leaders on the C&T magazine editorial advisory board help C&T shape content. These advisors reflect C&T magazine’s readership and the broad range of businesses they represent.
Owner, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc., USA
Eric Abrutyn is a graduate of New York University-New Paltz with a Masters in chemistry and of C.W. Post College/Long Island University with a BS in chemistry. He has over 35 years of experience in the personal care industry and is an active member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. Abrutyn also is chairman of the Personal Care Products Council (formerly CTFA) International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) Committee.
Abrutyn recently retired from Kao Brands Company as a senior principal scientist. He has contributed broadly in the fields of hair care research, skin care product development and underarm product development. He also had experience at Dow Corning as senior technical service scientist in the field of silicone chemistry and Wickhen Products as director of R&D in the field of antiperspirants, esterification, spray drying and free-radical polymerization. He has also worked for Amerchol as a synthesis chemist in the field of glucoside chemistry. Abrutyn holds more than 15 patents, is contributing editor to four books, is the author of many technical articles and has given numerous presentations in the field of antiperspirants, polymerization, controlled release and silicone applications.
Gabriela Daniels (Guest Advisor)
London College of Fashion
This month, Gabriela Daniels, science program director of the London College of Fashion, provides our Industry Insight.
Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.
Physician, Dermatology Consulting Services, USA
Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D., is a board certified dermatologist in private practice and a primary investigator for Dermatology Consulting Services, a company she founded in 1988 to provide education, develop formulation technology and conduct clinical studies in association with the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry. Her research interests include cosmetics, toiletries and biologically active skin medications. A national and international speaker, she has been the recipient of numerous research grants and served as principal investigator on more than 200 clinical trials. She is also a contributor to the medical literature, with more than 200 articles and 25 book chapters to her credit. She is the author of the Cosmetics in Dermatology, now in its third edition, and Hair Care, as well as serving as the editor for the textbook Cosmeceuticals, which has been translated into five languages. Complementing her writing endeavors, Draelos serves on eight editorial boards, including Cosmetics & Toiletries, Cosmetic Dermatology, The International Journal of Cosmetic Science, Dermatologic Surgery, Dermatology Times, Aesthetic Dermatology News, Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, Drugs and Dermatology, Cutis and the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. She is the editor-in-chief of the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
Draelos is a fellow and past board member of the American Academy of Dermatology and also holds membership in the American Dermatological Association, the Society for Investigative Dermatology and the American Society of Mechanical Engineers, among others. She is a past board member for the Society for Dermatologic Surgery. A former Rhodes Scholar, Draelos has been the recipient of many awards and honors in recognition of her professional and academic accomplishments. She was recently given a Lifetime Achievement Award for her research from Health Beauty America, a professional skin care and cosmetics industry organization.
Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D.
Senior R&D Scientist, Pfizer Consumer Healthcare, USA
Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D., currently serves as senior R&D scientist at Pfizer Consumer Healthcare, where she specializes in the formulation and product design of topical personal care applications for the ChapStick, Anbesol and Preparation H brands. Eppler earned her doctorate degree in pharmaceutical sciences with a specialty in cosmetic science from the University of Cincinnati.
Before joining Pfizer, Eppler was employed as a biologist at the US Food & Drug Administration in the cosmetic toxicology branch, where her research activities included skin absorption, metabolism of inflammatory mediators and the development of alternative in vitro skin irritation methods. Eppler has served on the National Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Board of Directors since 2008 as area IV director and is past-chair of the Mid-Atlantic chapter. She has been named the recipient of both the SCC Young Scientist Award and the SCC Chapter Merit Award. Eppler has authored multiple publications and presentations including a speaking invitation at the Gordon Research Conference on the barrier function of mammalian skin. Her research interests and areas of expertise include skin penetration and irritation assessment, novel delivery mechanisms and skin care formulation.
Trefor Evans, Ph.D.
Founder and Principal, TA Evans Inc., USA
Evans has worked in the hair care industry for more 20 years, with the majority of his time spent as a manager in the product development labs of Helene Curtis and Unilever. He also served for five years as director of measurement services at TRI-Princeton (TRI) before establishing his own consultancy, TA Evans LLC, in November 2012.
Evans holds a doctoral degree in physical-analytical chemistry and specializes in measurement science. In the personal care industry, his activities involved fundamental research, supporting product development efforts, substantiating and validating marketing claims, and a variety of other problem-solving. In addition, he facilitated and taught TRI’s two annual hair training classes and still holds the title Adjunct Research Fellow at TRI. Further, he teaches a series of lectures on hair science as part of the Master’s of Business and Science program in Personal Care Science at Rutgers University. Evans holds seven patents in the area of hair care and has published numerous articles in trade magazines and the scientific literature. His work has been awarded twice by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and he is a co-author and co-editor of the book “Practical Modern Hair Science,” published by Allured Business Media.
S. Peter Foltis
Senior Principal Scientist, Skin/Sun Care at L'Oréal USA, USA
S. Peter Foltis, director of scientific affairs for skin care at L’Oréal USA, has worked with L’Oréal for 22 years and served in various R&D roles, including as director of SkinCeuticals and Ralph Lauren Fragrances, and as a senior chemist, group leader and eventually manager of the Skin Treatment division. Prior to L’Oréal, Foltis worked as a chemist at the Lever Brothers Company.
Foltis earned his master’s degree in medicinal chemistry and pharmacognosy from Purdue University. His undergraduate degree is in pharmacy from Rutgers University. In addition, Foltis has authored and co-authored several books, book chapters and articles on topics ranging from shaving preparations and antioxidants to UV protection and self-tanners. Foltis is a registered pharmacist in the state of New Jersey as well as a member of the New York Academy of Sciences and Society of Cosmetic Chemists. He currently holds pending patents covering drug delivery, dosage form stabilization, photoprotection strategies, eczema treatment and other novel skin treatment formulations.
Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D.
Atlantic Coast Media Group and Independent Consultant, USA
Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D., received her doctorate in the area of UV and gamma radiation damage to DNA and DNA repair from New York University. She has been awarded patents in encapsulation and controlled release and has been involved in the cosmetic industry since 1987. She currently is the vice president of R&D for Atlantic Coast Media Group. Prior to that, she served as the executive director of R&D and patent formula review for The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.
Shuzo Ishidate, Ph.D.
President, Shiseido China Research Center Co., Ltd., China
Shuzo Ishidate, Ph.D. has been part of the personal care industry for nearly 25 years. After obtaining his doctorate at Tokyo University in the department of biophysics and biochemistry in 1987, Ishidate went on to become a scientist at the Shiseido Research Center. In 1991, the company named him the associate director of the Shiseido America Technocenter. In 1993, Ishidate became an administrator and the Shiseido liaison for the MGH/Harvard Cutaneous Biology Research Center. In addition, he became a visiting lecturer in the department of dermatology at Harvard Medical School. In 1995, he was named the manager of the R&D planning department for Shiseido Co., Ltd, a position he held for over 10 years before being promoted to president of the Shiseido China Research Center Co., Ltd., in 2006.
Senior Exploration Scientist, Belcorp Colombia
John Jiménez was trained as a pharmacist at the National University of Colombia. He earned his master's degree in sustainable development at the Escuela de Organización Industria (EOI) business school in Madrid, with specialized studies in marketing, neuromarketing and cosmetic science.
Jiménez began his carrier in the cosmetic field in 1999. He joined the R&D department at Belcorp in 2005, where he currently is the senior exploration scientist for the skin care, personal care and sun care categories. His research activities include pipeline innovation development, and exploratory and applied investigation.
Before joining Belcorp, Jiménez was employed at Whitehall A.H. Robins, Fresenius Medical Care and Esko Laboratories in Colombia. He is the author or coauthor of more than 25 scientific publications, has participated in many conferences and congresses, and has written a regular column on market trends in Cosmetics & Toiletries Brasil since 2013. He also has received a number of awards, including: the Maison G. de Navarre Prize, at the 23rd IFSCC Congress (USA 2004); best scientific papers at XIX Colamiqc (Ecuador 2009), XXI Colamiqc (Brazil 2013) and Farmacosmética (Colombia 2014); and the Henry Maso award, at the 29th IFSCC Congress (USA 2016).
Karl Laden, Ph.D.
Technical Manager, Alpa Cosmetics, Carmiel, Israel
Karl Laden, Ph.D., has been the Technical Manager for Alpa Cosmetics since 1994 and is responsible for all regulatory and technical matters relating to products imported and manufactured by the company, including brands from Beiersdorf, Chanel, Elizabeth Arden, Givenchy, MAM Baby, Coty and more. Laden also is responsible for development and manufacture of new products for the Orna 19 brand hair removal and skin care products. Prior to his current role, he was a consultant from 1987 to 1993, working with several major manufacturers.
In cooperation with Alpa Cosmetics, he developed a line of Dead Sea Cosmetics called Mineral Spa; co-founded InnoScent Ltd., a company developing novel solutions to odor problems, and served as vice president of R&D for Carter-Wallace Corp. in New York (1976-1986).
Professional activities include: President and Chairman, U.S. Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1977-1978); Editor, Journal of Cosmetic Science (1971-1976); Board of Editors, Research Technology Management (1983-1986); Contributing Editor, National Beauty School Journal (1970-1977); and the Personal Care Products Council Microbiology Committee (1972-1976).
Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D.
Associate Director and Research Fellow, Johnson & Johnson, USA
Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D., is currently an R&D manager, fellow and the product development head of color cosmetics, hair care and cleansing at Johnson & Johnson. He has partnered with marketing to translate concepts into product formulations to deliver key claims and consumer needs for multiple J&J skin care brands, including Johnson’s, Neutrogena, Clean and Clear, Aveeno and RoC. Maitra also has developed methods for claim substantiation and to drive prototype development.
Maitra's expertise includes driving innovation through external collaborations; material science; the structure-function relationship of ingredients and formulations; and optical science, color and appearance of personal care products. Notably, he was the recipient of Avon’s Global R&D Achievement Award in 2007 and 2009, and recipient of the Most Innovative Scientist Award for Neutrogena Cosmetics in 2010.
Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D.
Research Fellow, Procter & Gamble, USA
Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D., has worked with P&G for 17 years in a variety of roles, including consumer research, and product and technology development. As an accomplished Principal Scientist in the Beauty and Technology division, Marsh has conducted multiple studies on bleach and oxidative chemistry for hair color technologies. One of her most recent achievements, a new hair color chemistry, was launched in 2008 as Nice N' Easy Perfect 10, which was the result of several years of collaboration by a team of P&G's scientists. This work earned recognition from the Society of Cosmetics Chemists. In addition, Princeton has recognized her work on High Pressure Differential Scanning Calorimetry.
Marsh holds a doctorate in synthetic inorganic chemistry from the University of Oxford's Wolfson College, where her thesis was on the chemistry of gold. She has presented and published numerous papers in the area of hair structure science and color, and she holds more than 20 patents.
Marc Pissavini, Ph.D.
Basic and Applied Research Director, Coty-Lancaster, Monaco
Marc Pissavini, Ph.D., began his career as an analytical chemist for the cosmetics industry in 1997 and soon thereafter, in 1998, joined the sun research department of Coty-Lancaster in Monaco. In 2003, he earned his doctorate in chemistry from the University of Nice-Sophia Antipolis and since 2008, has served as the director of Basic and Applied Research for Coty-Lancaster. His portfolio includes 20 publications, two patents and 25 conference and poster presentations.
Pissavini's research interests include UV spectroscopy with a focus on the study and design of test methods and the influence of substrate roughness on SPF measurements; the design and optimization of SPF, PPD, water resistance and photostability test methods; and skin care research in relation to texture and sensory assessments. He is an active participant in related specialty groups, including serving as chairman, since 2012, of both the Cosmetics Europe Photostability In Vitro Task Force and of the ISO SPF In Vitro Task Force. He has also been a member of the French Agency for the Safety of Health Products (AFSSAPS), the French Organization for Standardization and its International Organization Standardization member body (AFNOR), and the French trade organization Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté (FEBEA) for years.
Luigi M. Rigano, Ph.D.
Owner, L. Rigano Laboratories, Italy
Rigano has been operating in the cosmetic field since he graduated with a degree in industrial chemistry in 1970. For more than 15 years, he has carried out R&D activities, production and technical assistance in many national and international companies such as Unilever, Lepetit, Intercos, Woltz, Givaudan and Schering. Rigano has managed his own laboratory since 1986, and has acted as an independent consultant to the industry. He is the co-director of the Institute of Skin and Product Evaluation (ISPE), an ISO 9002-certified laboratory for the evaluation of tolerability, efficacy and sensorial characteristics of cosmetics and industrial products. In addition to being past president and an honorary member of the SICC, he has been the scientific secretary and the honorary secretary of International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC). Rigano is member of the register of chemists in the Lombardia region and consultant at the Milan Court. He is also author of more than 50 scientific articles of cosmetics, aesthetics and dermatology.
Sylvianne Schnebert, M.D.
Life Sciences Department Director, LVMH Recherche, France
As director of the life sciences department at LVMH Recherche, Perfumes and Cosmetics, Schnebert's role heavily involves cosmetic efficiency evaluation and research in cutaneous biology, and she is charged with defining research strategies, coordinating research contracts, managing researchers and evaluating new scientific concepts stemming from research work.
After earning her doctoral degree in medicine at the University of Paris VI, and what she calls an “enriching experience in dermatology” at the Hospital St. Joseph of Paris, she led a training course in clinical methodology. Fascinated by research, she began her career in 1985 at Ipsen, a pharmaceutical company, as project manager in clinical research, where she coordinated phase III and IV studies in the areas of gynecology, cancer research, pediatrics and gastroenterology. She also worked on the first protocols of in vitro fertilization. Five years later, Schnebert joined the laboratories of Parfums Christian Dior, where she became responsible for clinical tests, and was entrusted with the management of all cosmetic product efficiency evaluations at LVMH Recherche laboratories, where she is today.
Research Fellow, Amway Corp., USA
Ron Sharpe, principal scientist with Amway Corp.’s health and beauty new technology group, has nearly 30 years of expertise in the personal care industry, including global product development in skin care, personal care and shaded cosmetics. His technical expertise includes product development with an emphasis on Asia; skin imaging and bio-instrumentation; the biology of skin aging; genomics and enology. Sharpe currently specializes in strategic technology planning, open innovation and sustainable new technology development.
Before joining Amway, Sharpe served product development roles with Pfizer Consumer Products and Tambrands Inc. He earned his master’s degree in cosmetic science from Fairleigh Dickinson University in New Jersey.
Leslie Smith, Ph.D.
President, Leslie C. Smith Consulting, Switzerland
After a bachelor's degree with honors in chemistry from the University of Stirling, a doctorate in organic chemistry from the Research Institute for Medicine and Chemistry, and a post doctoral position at the University of Geneva, Smith joined Procter & Gamble. Following several years with P&G, he joined the fragrance industry in a number of technical management positions in Switzerland and the United States.
In 2002, he joined Coty at their global R&D headquarters in Morris Plains, N.J., USA, as VP of R&D, where his responsibilities included basic research, fragrance technology and development, consumer affairs, sensory, Coty Testing Institute, analytical, safety and toxicology. In July 2011, he was named senior VP of R&D, a role he assumed in Geneva, Switzerland. In this position, he maintained his responsibilities in the United States while establishing Coty’s newly created Global Center of Excellence for Fragrances in Geneva.
Retiring in the spring of 2015, Smith founded his own consulting company. He has a number of publications in chemistry and perfumery and a list of patents ranging from insect control to deodorancy to delivery systems.
President, Steinberg & Associates, USA
David C. Steinberg founded Steinberg & Associates, a consulting firm based in Plainsboro, N.J., USA, in 1995. He also was a co-founder of the graduate program in cosmetic sciences at the Fairleigh Dickinson University, where he lectured for 18 years on the chemistry of cosmetic ingredients. Steinberg has more than 35 years of experience in marketing, technical service and regulatory affairs in the personal care industry, and was president of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in 1991. He is a frequent speaker worldwide on cosmetic regulations, cosmetic preservation, sunscreen chemistry and the chemistry of cosmetic ingredients, in addition to the author of a book titled, Preservatives for Cosmetics, Second Edition.
Director Corporate R&D Innovation, The Estée Lauder Companies, USA
For the past 14 years, Peter Tsolis has held various positions with several brands for the Estée Lauder Companies, where his work has led to a number of product launches. Throughout his career, he has had cross-functional responsibilities ranging from innovation to business development. Tsolis is an active member of the SCC, having served as past chair of the Long Island chapter, where currently he serves as national area director. He has given numerous presentations at industry and university conferences in the areas of skin care formulation, delivery systems and new technology. His research interests include innovative technology, optimizing activity in formulas and marketing in the personal care market.
Russel Walters, Ph.D.
Associate Director and Fellow, Skin Biophysics and Modeling, Johnson & Johnson, USA
Walters earned doctorate in chemical engineering from the University of Pennsylvania. During graduate school, he co-founded the nanotechnology start-up Ocular Technologies, which developed the a durable self-assembled monolayer (SAM) coating, In 2003, Walters joined Johnson & Johnson, and his work in polymer/surfactant interactions and surfactant effects on skin has led to the development of hydrophobically-modified polymers for improved mildness in cleansers and over 25 patents and patent applications.
In 2009, he and his colleagues received the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’s (SCC) Best Paper Award for their work on tissue-compatible mild cleansing systems. Additionally, J&J awarded Walters the Philip B. Hofmann Research Scientist Award for his work on novel mild cleansing systems. Collaborating with academic and industrial researchers, his current research interests include: particle stabilized emulsions; skin lipid monolayer organization; surfactant dynamics; and the history of cleansing. Walters has presented papers at a range of scientific conferences including the American Physical Society, the American Academy of Dermatology, and PA Nanotechnology and regularly gives lectures at the University of Pennsylvania.
Head of Technical & Scientific Analysis, L'Oréal
Claudie Willemin is currently Head of Technical & Scientific Analysis, and Director of the Worldwide Applied Research Division for L’Oréal's Research & Innovation group. She joined L'Oréal in 1999 as Sun Care Products Development Manager.
Willemin was a member of the Colipa Sun Products Sub-Committee from 2000-2003. She also worked previously for both Rhone-Poulenc and Rhodia as manager of the Solubility Parameters Lab, then the Personal Care Lab. In addition, she is the immediate past-president of the International Federation of the Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC), and the French IFSCC society, Société Française de Cosmétologie (SFC).
Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D.
Sr. Director, Coty Testing Institute (CTI)
Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D., is senior director for the Coty Testing Institute, where he oversees both consumer and clinical testing in skin care and color cosmetics. Prior to this, he served as the clinical research manager for Unilever Home and Personal Care. His expertise is understanding skin as a substrate, skin cleansing and care technologies, and their effect on skin structure and function. His work at Unilever's China facility was heavily involved in designing tests to measure the true effects of products on skin. There, he oversaw panel testing with volunteers using the company's personal care products.