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Read the Label Online: St. Ives Even & Bright Pink Lemon and Mandarin Orange Scrub

Contact Author Susan Raffy, Susan Raffy Consulting Inc.
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St. Ives Even Bright Pink Lemon and Mandarin Orange Scrub

St. Ives Even & Bright Pink Lemon and Mandarin Orange Scrub

Polyethylene beads are being scrutinized across the country for not being biodegradable and being made from non-renewable petrochemical sources. Unilever’s St. Ives Even & Bright Pink Lemon & Mandarin Orange Scrub takes advantage of two hot trends in the cosmetic industry by using natural exfoliants in the “brightening” category. This column will review the ingredient listing for functionality and claims substantiation.

The natural exfoliant in this opaque scrub is hydrated silica, a form of silicon dioxide (sand). Glycerin is the primary humectant or moisturizing agent. The sulfate-free surfactants are a blend of sodium methyl 2-sulfolaurate, decyl glucoside, cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium 2-sulfolaurate. Cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate is a multifunctional conditioning phospholipid that also helps to counteract irritation from anionic surfactants and boost the preservative system. Acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer and acrylates copolymer are the synthetic thickening and suspending agents. Polyacrylamide is a film-former per the manufacturer, but I am not sure of its purpose in a wash-off scrub.

The “bio-active” or cosmeceutical ingredients include Citrus medica limonum (lemon) fruit extract and Citrus nobilis (mandarin orange) peel extract. The preservative system is a proprietary blend of phenethyl alcohol and methylisothiazolinone in PPG-2 methyl ether.

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The colorants are red 30 and titanium dioxide, which form red beads in the product. Also included in the formula is chelating agent disodium EDTA and fragrance. In my opinion, the ingredients listed do support the marketing claims of “sulfate free," "100% natural exfoliants" and “oil free.”

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Ingredients: St. Ives Even & Bright Pink Lemon and Mandarin Orange Scrub

Water (aqua), Hydrated Silica, Sodium Methyl 2-Sulfolaurate, Glycerin, Decyl Glucoside, Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate, Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Fragrance (parfum), Disodium EDTA, PPG-2 Methyl Ether, Phenethyl Alcohol, Polyacrylamide, Methylisothiazolinone, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Extract, Red 30 (CI 73360), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).

Biography: Susan Raffy, Susan Raffy Consulting

Susan Raffy

Susan Raffy, president of Susan Raffy Consulting, has more than 25 years of experience in the personal care industry, including a number of positions in personal care R&D. Her first position after obtaining her Bachelor of Arts degree in chemistry from the University of California, San Diego, in 1982, was developing pharmaceuticals and nutritional supplements for American McGaw. She also briefly worked as a research assistant in pulmonary medicine at the University of Texas’s Health Science Center/Veterans Administration Hospital before making her foray into cosmetic formulation as associate scientist in the Allercreme Cosmetics division of Alcon Laboratories Inc. in 1985. After a few years at Alcon, Raffy continued formulating at Physicians Formula Cosmetic Inc., where she was a scientist responsible for new product development using innovative raw materials and advanced technology for hypoallergenic skin treatment. In 1990, she joined Aware Products Inc. as director of research and development/quality assurance. Her experience then transitioned to business, with positions as VP of business development/technical sales for GAR Laboratories Inc. and technical sales representative and industry specialist for Lipscomb Chemical Company Inc. Raffy went back to formulating as the director of product development for the beauty division of Guthy-Renker Corp. At the same time, she began teaching at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, where she was named Outstanding Instructor of the Year. Following, she was president of CTF Concepts Inc. and senior sales manager and technical director for Randall International LP before beginning her consulting business in 2008. Raffy is an active member Society of Cosmetic Chemists, where she has served as chair, summer event coordinator and newsletter editor for the California chapter. She is also an active member of the American Chemical Society and Beauty Industry West.

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