The well-aging trend is reshaping beauty, emphasizing the need to care for and maintain vitality, appearance and overall health at any age. Effective anti-stress and well-aging cosmetics are fundamental to supporting this wave; examples are provided here.
As expectancy and quality of life increase, the approach to aging is evolving from a negative connotation toward a more conscious and positive attitude, promoting wellness, health and beauty at any age. Finally, aging is considered as a natural process, accompanied by the acceptance of changes to the face, hair and body, and addressed by enhancing their prevention and care. Such a way of re-thinking aging involves not only cosmetics, but also other health disciplines like medicine and psychology. New pro-aging lines are being launched, giving emphasis to the positive aspects – overcoming the practice of total hiding and counteraction of aging signs, and welcoming them as physiological changes.
This article is only available to registered users.
Log In to View the Full Article
The well-aging trend is reshaping beauty, emphasizing the need to care for and maintain vitality, appearance and overall health at any age. Effective anti-stress and well-aging cosmetics are fundamental to supporting this wave; examples are provided here.
As expectancy and quality of life increase, the approach to aging is evolving from a negative connotation toward a more conscious and positive attitude, promoting wellness, health and beauty at any age. Finally, aging is considered as a natural process, accompanied by the acceptance of changes to the face, hair and body, and addressed by enhancing their prevention and care. Such a way of re-thinking aging involves not only cosmetics, but also other health disciplines like medicine and psychology. New pro-aging lines are being launched, giving emphasis to the positive aspects – overcoming the practice of total hiding and counteraction of aging signs, and welcoming them as physiological changes.
With advancing age, the epidermal layer becomes thinner, cell renewal is slower and the hydrolipidic film is reduced. Moreover, the dermo-epidermal junction flattens, elastotic material increases in the dermis and an atrophy of subcutaneous tissue is also observed. Chronoaging reduces the lifespan and dividing capacity of fibroblasts, with a decrease in collagen production. In addition, the enlargement of collagen fibrils reduces the elasticity of skin.1
Over time, the typical signs of aging become evident, such as:
- loss of radiance,
- uneven skin tone,
- hyperpigmentation,
- as well as wrinkles,
- reduced elasticity and thickness, and
- dryness.
Structural and functional alterations are due to some complex mechanisms, determined by endogenous (genetics) and exogenous (environmental, lifestyle) factors. Conspicuous extrinsic aging factors are smoking and sun exposure (UVA and UVB rays), both of which are significantly associated with multiple skin aging signs, and exhibit dose-response relationships with wrinkling.2
A common factor is the formation of free radicals, highly reactive molecules that damage lipids, proteins and DNA. Antioxidants play an essential role in counteracting the deleterious effects of oxidative stress induced by environmental aggressors such as UV radiation, pollution and lifestyle factors. Key antioxidants are vitamins C, E and A, green tea extract, resveratrol and other polyphenolic compounds.3
Menopause, a biological process that marks the end of a woman’s fertility, is a crucial time for the evidence of signs of aging.4 The drastic reduction of estrogens deeply affects skin, with a decrease of collagen, elastin and fatty tissue, and epidermal trophism, as well as a decreased ability to retain water. This leads to drier, less elastic skin with increased evidence of hyperpigmentation.5
With the aim of maintaining a healthy appearance over time, it is essential for consumers to start around age 25-30 with targeted treatments and habits. Proper nutrition, regular physical activity and a personalized beauty routine are essential. The use of pro-age cosmetics should support skin physiology by stimulating fibroblasts and microcirculation to improve tissue tropism. The basic ideal approach is a skin care routine that includes a comprehensive regimen of products providing environmental protection (especially against UV rays), exfoliation (smooth appearance) and hydration. The following highlights some examples.
Multifunctional Skin Care and Protection
Functional products, such as creams and serums with mild exfoliators, hyaluronic acid or other moisturizers, and retinol and its derivatives promote skin hydration and regeneration. The restoration of barrier lipids thanks to ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, allows greater protection, less dryness and an increase in skin elasticity. Gentle cleansing products that respect the hydrolipidic film and daily use of sunscreens (with minimum SPF 30) are equally important to preserve the skin from the damaging effects of solar radiation.
Formula 1 (see below) presents a concept product with such benefits. This Well Aging Daily Protecting Cream with SPF 30 is an oil-in-water emulsion for the face containing a combination of chemical and physical sun filters together with ingredients exerting protective functions like ectoin, which is proven to protect skin from environmental stress including: sunlight (including blue light and infrared radiation), dehydration, chemical irritants and pollution. Moreover, it improves the skin’s natural moisture, smoothes wrinkles and creates well-being sensations of confidence, attractiveness and self-esteem.6
bis-Ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate is another multifunctional active ingredient providing protection from environmental stress and exerting antioxidant activity by the neutralization of free radicals. Finally, sodium hyaluronate is added to maintain moisture in the skin, which is essential for a youthful and healthy appearance, as dry skin can highlight fine lines and wrinkles.
Face/Skin Positivity and Makeup
Radiant, smooth facial skin without imperfections still seems to be considered the ideal beauty, a concept spread continuously by social media. Botulinum toxina and filler treatments are increasingly used and can lead to a dangerous psychological addiction. But slowly, a new approach is taking shape, even among celebrities – an open-mindedness to less uniform esthetic standards, with a focus on more natural beauty, the acceptance of imperfections paired with self-care and psychological wellness.
Face and skin positivity are gaining traction, including self-acceptance without filters and diversity viewed as an opportunity – but without giving up on makeup. Indeed, makeup has been shown to improve perceived facial attractiveness and the willingness to communicate.7 But in the new mindset of face and skin positivity, it should impart a healthy appearance and enhance the positive details, not simply mask imperfections.
Moreover, it must be functional – i.e., formulated to protect, prevent and care. Thus, a natural look can be achieved through light coverage makeup including BB and CC creams or tinted moisturizers that also contain UV filters and active ingredients with antioxidant and protective functions.
Subduing Signs of Stress in the Eye Area
One specific area of the face that draws attention is the eye area. Stress can affect every part of the body, showing more or less evident symptoms. However, this area is particularly targeted by signs of aging, stress and fatigue. Eye bags, dark circles, blepharoptosis (upper eyelid sagging) and wrinkles are the main signs that can be accompanied by uncomfortable feelings such as dryness, higher sensitivity and irritation.
Cosmetic products addressing stress-related eye area concerns should include moisturizing and softening ingredients. Also, decongestant molecules such as caffeine can promote blood circulation to combat puffiness and under-eye discoloration. Vitamins like niacinamide and ascorbic acid can additionally support collagen production to give a brighter, more youthful appearance around the eyes.
Another aspect that affects the eye area contour is straining due to prolonged exposure to screens and high-energy visible (HEV) light emitted by devices like smartphones, tablets and computers, which some suspect contribute to skin damage. HEV light, often referred to as blue light, is known to penetrate the skin deeper than UV rays and may lead to oxidative stress, resulting in skin aging, hyperpigmentation and, over time, inflammation.8
To address these effects of HEV light, antioxidants are commonly used. These ingredients help neutralize the free radicals generated by oxidative stress, thus preventing or reducing skin damage. Common antioxidants used in cosmetics include the aforementioned vitamin C as well as vitamin B3, astaxanthin, ferulic acid or botanical extracts such as green tea polyphenols, cocoa seed extract and milk thistle (Silybum marianum) extract.
Formula 2 (see below) provides an example – the last two ingredients of which are combined with antioxidant tocotrienols to protect against blue light and pollution. Milk thistle also demonstrates anti-inflammatory properties, which are useful for reducing puffiness and improving microcirculation in the eye area and helping to reduce the appearance of dark circles.
Small moisturizing molecules like allantoin, inositol and xylitol in combination with emollient oils and soothing agents such as Butyrospermum parkii butter unsaponifiables are also added to soften and nourish the delicate area of a tired and dry eye contour. Notably, perfuming substances are preferably omitted to avoid the possibility of irritative reactions. The pH of the formula must be kept to around 7-7.4 (the pH value of tear fluid) for the same reasons.
Formula 3 (see below) offers another concept – an eye contour stick consisting of a water-in-oil emulsion with a rigid structure. It is designed to impart a sensation of freshness during application thanks to the release of the aqueous phase (20%) and methyl diisopropyl propionamide, which provides a long-lasting cooling effect. The emulsion is made with a pair of w/o emulsifiers and stabilized by a combination of high-melting waxes and lipid viscosifying ingredients.
The smoothness on the skin and light, non-greasy final sensation is guaranteed by the type of liquid fatty phase represented by emollient esters in association with an alkane of vegetable origin having a dry touch (tetradecane), an alternative to isohexadecane. The natural hydration, elasticity and softness of the eye area skin is also regained thanks to shea butter.
Finally, small wrinkles are visibly smoothed due to the light-diffusing effect of spherical particles in the hydrated silica – an eco-friendly powder and alternative to microplastics – that create a matte effect and make the final touch drier, silkier and less sticky. The presence of slightly pearlescent pigments also promote the reduction of dark circles and a radiant look. The formula is enriched with Aniba rosaeodora extract, a species of Magnoliid tree with clinically proven lifting and firming effects.
Rebalancing Stressed Hair
Chronic or excessive stress extends beyond the face; it also can disrupt the function of hair follicles, leading to hair loss and thinning. Stress triggers an inflammatory response and hormonal changes like elevated cortisol levels that can negatively affect hair production and growth cycles. This often results in conditions such as telogen effluvium, where hair prematurely enters the loss phase.9
In addition, acute stress has been linked to the depletion of melanocyte stem cells, which are responsible for producing the pigment in hair.10 When these cells are depleted, hair can lose its color, which leads to premature graying. As awareness of the impact of stress and other environmental factors on hair health grows, the demand for products targeting hair loss and premature graying has significantly increased. This has led to the launch of a wide variety of anti-hair loss and anti-graying lotions and treatments.
These products often contain a combination of active ingredients to nourish the scalp, strengthen hair and promote natural color. Adaptogen plant extracts (e.g., ashwagandha, ginseng and rhodiola) can help the body adapt to stress and may support a more youthful appearance by reducing the negative effects of stress on skin and hair. Prunella vulgaris extract is one such adaptogen-like herbal extract that can counteract the effects of psycho-emotional stress on hair and scalp, including premature hair graying and passage from the anagen to catagen growth phase resulting in hair loss and thinning. Neurogenic inflammation is also associated with the induction of the catagen phase in hair follicles and histamine release, with scalp itching and discomfort.
In vitro tests have shown that one Prunella vulgaris-based ingredient11 reduced the negative effects of cortisol on the scalp and hair, stimulated the feel-good hormone oxytocin and improved hair growth. It also decreased hair loss, increased hair length, enhanced hair density, soothed scalp redness and reduced oxidative stress linked to graying.
Formula 4 (see below) offers a prototype scalp lotion based on this natural active. The translucent watery fluid gel also contains ethanol, which is necessary to improve absorption speed and give a light feel on the scalp and hair. At the percentages shown, preservatives could also be omitted thanks to its antibacterial action. A conditioning polymer (polyquaternium-11) and a humectant and strengthener for hair (isopentyldiol) are also included.
Conclusions
The well-aging trend is reshaping the beauty and wellness industries, emphasizing the importance of caring for both skin and hair to maintain vitality, appearance and overall health at any age. With the availability of a wide choice of effective active ingredients, the market can offer differentiated products that cater to the unique needs of different age groups, promoting not just beauty, but a healthy and balanced lifestyle throughout the whole slow aging process. Formulating truly effective anti-stress and well-aging cosmetics with pleasant textures is fundamental to fully supporting this recent wave promoting wellness and self-esteem.
a Botox, Allergan
References
1. Levakov, A., Vucković, N., ... Dolai, M. et al. (2012, May-Jun). Age-related skin changes, Med Pregl, 65(5-6) 191-5.
2. Wong, Q.Y.A. and Chew, F.T. (2021, Nov 11). Defining skin aging and its risk factors: A systematic review and meta-analysis. Sci Rep, 11 22075.
3. Kumar V., Tanwar, N., ... Goel, M. et al. (2024, Aug 6). Antioxidants for skin health. Recent Adv Food Nutr Agric.
4. Thornton, M.J. (2013). Estrogens and aging skin. Dermatoendocrinol, 5(2) 264-270.
5. Lephart, E.D. (2018). A review of the role of estrogen in dermal aging and facial attractiveness in women. J Cosmet Dermatol, 17(3) 282-288.
6. Azelis. (Accessed 2025, Feb 1). RonaCare Ectoin. Available at https://tinyurl.com/ycy28muj
7. Zhang L., Chen W., ... Liu, M., et al. (2021, Dec 10). Light makeup decreases receivers’ negative emotional experience. Scientific Reports, 11 23802.
8. Kumari, J., Das, K., ... Babaei, M., et al. (2023, Apr). The impact of blue light and digital screens on the skin. J Cosmet Dermatol, 22(4) 1185-1190.
9. Thom, E. (2016, Aug). Stress and the hair growth cycle: Cortisol-induced hair growth disruption, J Drugs in Dermatology, 15(8) 1001-1004.
10. Rachmin, I., Lee, J.H., ... Zhang, B., et al. (2021, Mar 3). Stress-associated ectopic differentiation of melanocyte stem cells and ORS amelanotic melanocytes in an ex vivo human hair follicle model. Exp Dermatol, 30(4) 578-587.
11. Clariant. (Accessed 2025, Feb 1). The feel-good anti-hair loss. Prunizen. Available at https://www.clariant.com/en/Solutions/Products/2022/03/08/08/21/Prunizen
