Clariant Active Ingredients’ milk thistle flower extract, Celyscence (INCI: Not Provided), was developed to target cellular senescence. In vivo, it was shown to recover healthy skin, improving hydration and brightness.
The extract draws on the reported therapeutic properties of milk thistle to broadly target and counteract cellular senescence. According to Clariant, Celyscence was proven on areas including the aging-sensitive and often-neglected décolleté area to prevent a decline in skin functioning and promote healthy aging.
In vitro Efficacy
In vitro, the active demonstrated senolytic and senomorphic effects. In particular, it pushed senescent cells to apoptosis (i.e., a senolytic effect) to maximize cell elimination and prevent them from irreversibly inducing damage. It also alleviated side effects (i.e., a senomorphic effect) by downregulating the cell’s secretion of molecules that cause additional harm.
Further evaluations also showed the ability of Celyscence to reprogram senescent cells and reverse their loss of functionality. For example, the ingredient reinstated the ability of dermal fibroblasts to produce collagen.
In vivo Efficacy
The potential of Celyscence to deliver healthy aging properties also was assessed in vivo. Evaluations were made on the lower face, throat and décolleté area to determine its suitability for mature skin care, healthy aging products and neck-firming creams.
More specifically, a volunteer group of 30 women aged between 50-60, all presenting visible wrinkles on the neck and décolleté area, were enrolled. For 56 days, one half of the panel applied a product containing 3% Celyscence on the throat and chest, and the other half, a placebo product. Clinical measurements were made after 14, 28 and 56 days during the fall season. Twice daily for 14 days, all participants also applied either a cream containing 3% Celyscence or a placebo cream to one half of the face, to enable specific and quick face observations.
The active was shown to support healthy skin by hydrating it. The skin hydration level on the décolleté, which is particularly susceptible to seasonal stresses, increased by 8.6% after 14 days and by 14% after 56 days of ingredient use. In the placebo group, the skin hydration decreased by 12.6%, as was to be expected during the fall season.
After 14 days, Celyscence increased chest skin brightness and radiance, producing a more luminous and even appearance. The effect was more marked after 28 days and 56 days of ingredient use. A decrease in melanin content of more than 5% in facial skin also was observed after only 14 days.
Healthy Appearance and Firmness
Furthermore, in a self-evaluation after 28 days and 56 days of ingredient use, 81% of volunteers thought their skin looked healthier. Volunteers agreed that the Celyscence cream made their chest skin appear firmer and brighter. Additionally, their décolleté was perceived to have a healthier look. According to the company, a visual evaluation showed that the throat was visibly firmer and the facial contours were remodeled.
“Delaying the formation of senescent cells is key to maintaining healthy skin,” said Alexandre Lapeyre, global head of marketing and business development for Clariant Active Ingredients. “...Celyscence has strong capabilities to target and selectively clear out senescent cells to successfully mitigate the impact of senescence and repair damaged cells. The skin is protected from silent damage and stays healthier longer. It’s more hydrated, brighter and firmer. [These are] just some of its contributions to healthy aging that will give formulators an exciting and effective new strategy for exploring future consumer skin care.”