Gattefossé will reveal Eyeglorious (INCI: Not Provided), a lipophillic active focused on embellishing the eyes at in-cosmetics Global April 16-18.
Eyeglorius is an organic solution capable of treating signs of fatigue while opening up possibilities for skin care and makeup formulations.
The ingredient utilizes leaves of sea buckthorns. A process was developed to maximize the triterpenoid acids content. Following extraction, the vegetable matter is solubilized in a biobased oily compound, which ensures lipophilicity as well as stability and optimal formulation, per the company.
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Per the company, triterpenoid acids (mainly ursolic, maslinic, and oleanolic acids) have recognized effects on skin microcirculation by reducing inflammation-induced vascular permeability and reinforcing the endothelial barrier function. They also present potential in the degradation of the red pigment of dark circles.
Gattefossé’s skin biology team set up a study program to cover the entire pathway leading to the appearance of dark circles and puffiness. To be as close as possible to the physiological reality, they worked on endothelial cells issued from biopsies.
Eyeglorius offers abilities to secure microcirculation and reinforce the endothelial barrier function, per the company. Tested on a model of human dermal microvascular endothelial cells stressed with TNF-α, the active lead to a significant reduction in vascular permeability, responsible for the appearance of edema and dark circles. Furthermore, Eyeglorius promotes the degradation of hemoglobin and prevents oxidation, which are key contributors to under-eye hyperpigmentation.
Two double-blind clinical studies confirm Eyeglorius' efficiency in reducing signs of fatigue. Tested against a placebo, it achieves a significant reduction of eye bags volume combined with a lighter appearance and smaller surface for dark circles.
Laurie Canel, product marketing leader for personal care actives at Gattefossé, commented: "In response to the trend towards skinification in makeup, Gattefossé sought to provide cosmetic brands with a comprehensive solution. We leveraged our multiple expertise to create Eyeglorius, a distinctive lipophilic active which is the perfect match between the expectations of formulators and consumers.”
