Avocado Anti-aging Active for Skin

Expanscience Laboratoires sourced avocado pulp to create an anti-aging, detoxifying and plumping active. Effipulp (INCI: Hydrolyzed Avocado Protein (and) Maltodextrin) stimulates the endogenous synthesis of hyaluronic acid to restore volume to mature, dehydrated and stressed skin. In addition, it is said to restore the systems that repair and eliminate oxidized protein.

The peptide concentrate is produced through enzymatic hydrolysis of defatted avocado pulp (cake). After freeze-drying, a stabilized powder in an organic maltodextrin carrier is obtained. This process respects the natural character of the fruit. The result is a dry, water-soluble extract that has a composition of peptides with low molecular weight (<10 kDa).

The active stimulates proteasome activity, enabling cells to recover their original functions. The active is capable of reducing the accumulation of senescence-induced oxidized proteins. It does this by increasing thioredoxin gene expression (repair system) by 177%. In addition, it increases  proteasome activity (elimination system) by 43%. The quantity of oxidized proteins is reduced by 44%. Therefore, it restores thioredoxin and proteasome, the systems that repair and eliminate oxidized protein.

The active boosts the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and proteins to ensure good cohesion of the stratum corneum.The company applied an emulsion containing 0.6% of the active or a placebo to skin explants once a day for three days. This test showed that the active stimulates endogenous synthesis of hyaluronic acid  by 220%. In addition, it stimulates the synthesis of filaggrin and transglutaminase (cornified envelope), two compounds essential for proper cohesion and resistance of the stratum corneum.

To study the active's plumping effect on skin, the company conducted a randomized, double-blind study wherein 49 women with dry, sensitive skin and an average age of 49 were either given a cream formulated with 0.6% of the active or a placebo cream. The creams were applied twice-daily to facial skin for 56 days, and the plumping effect was assessed by quantifying the variation in epidermal volume using the optical coherence tomography technique, which reconstructs the epidermis in 3D via very-high-resolution images. Whereas the placebo had no significant effect, application of the creat with the active resulted in a 6.1% increase in epidermis volume.

The active is recommended at 0.1–0.6% in anti-aging, plumping and detoxifying skin care. It is approved for the formulation of finished products certified by Ecocert.

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