Tech Edge: Optical Tools to Examine the Structure of Cosmetic Products

Jan 6th, 2014

Phil Cummins, PhD, Estée Lauder

From the column editor: Within the past five years, the timeline for a formulation to go from the bench to market has shortened significantly. Today, every chemist is faced with creating a new, stable formula within months when it used to take over a year. To help chemists measure the stability of formulas within a reasonable time frame, accelerated stability testing is used; however, this still requires at least three months of testing. Many companies are looking for ways to examine their formulations to attempt to relate physical structure to stability.

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From 2013-2020, advisor and columnist Trefor Evans, Ph.D., wrote the column series, 'Testing Tactics in Hair' for C&T, which is treasure trove of information for those working in the hair care space. Following is an index, complete with links.

'Testing Tactics in Hair' Column Series — An Index of Works by Trefor Evans, Ph.D.

From 2013-202, adviser and columnist Trefor Evans, Ph.D., wrote the column series, "Testing Tactics in Hair" for Cosmetics & Toiletries, covering methods to measure damage, treatments, claims and more. This is an index of his works.

Neuroglow,™ the Active that Captures the Molecular Power of the Sun

Neuroglow,™ the Active that Captures the Molecular Power of the Sun

Givaudan Active Beauty unveils Neuroglow™, a powerful active ingredient designed to safely replicate all the positive effects of the sun. The result? A healthy glow and enhanced wellbeing all year round.

Cosmetic Victories Trophy Adobe Stock 336135626

2 Winners and 4 Finalists Shine in 2023 Cosmetic Victories Competition

Cosmetic Victories finalists included a human skin model, natural senolytic ingredient, photoactivable algae derivative for anti-acne effects, a palm oil alternative and both in vitro sunscreen ecotoxicity and contaminant testing. See who won.

Learn more about RNA sequencing and how it benefits claims support in this exclusive podcast, sponsored by Genemarkers. Register now to listen; it's free.

[podcast] How RNA Sequencing Advances Claims Support

RNA sequencing is a newer, more dynamic approach than DNA sequencing to measure the effects of ingredients and products on skin. Rishabh Kala, Ph.D., of Genemarkers, explains its capabilities in this sponsored podcast. Listen now; it's free.

Using an oil blotting film to collect facial sebum, Kao can apply skin surface lipids-RNA monitoring technology to 'infer' skin and physical conditions such as pediatric atopic dermatitis and Parkinson's disease.

Kao's New Infant Sebum Testing Protocol Can Flag Atopic Dermatitis, Parkinson's Disease

The move is the start of Kao's expansion into health testing services.

Genemarkers Ct2302 Lead

Environmental Stress Panel for Evaluating Diesel Particulate Matter==> download our unique Gene Expression Panels Guide at no cost

Genemarkers, a trusted partner for applying genomic technologies to personal care product development, has launched a new testing service to evaluate how product formulations protect or repair skin in response to diesel particulate matter (DPM).

A letter from the FDA to Valisure, dated Dec. 5, 2022, highlighted 'methodological deficiencies' and 'analytic descrepancies' in the company's testing.

FDA, Unilever and GSK Challenge Valisure's Benzene Findings, Test Methods

The FDA recently raised concerns over the test methods of Valisure, the Connecticut-based lab whose reports over benzene in sunscreen and dry shampoo products from Unilever, GSK and others have prompted recalls and class action suits.

This review first assesses the methods used to quantify 1,4-dioxane in surface water and drinking water, then extends the assessment to more complex commercially available products.

[updated] How to Ensure Cleansers Comply with Growing 1,4-Dioxane Regulations

A review in the Journal of Surfactants and Detergents explored means of measuring 1,4-dioxane levels in cleansers in order to comply with increasing ppm restrictions set by U.S. states. In this update, industry expert Tony O'Lenick adds context.

Studies have demonstrated that wild teasel could be a natural source of bioactive compounds, particularly phenolics and iridoids, and have confirmed its high potential for the cosmetic industry. For example, teasel features strong antioxidant activity, especially in leaf extracts

DNA Metabarcoding Tracks Traceability of Naturals: Wild Teasel Case Study

This study authenticates D. fullonum from raw material to final ingredient. It compares D. fullonum and D. sylvestris in a three-step study by: barcoding the raw material, metabarcoding the two extracts and bioinformatics processing.

Genemarkers Ct2209 Lead

Next-generation Sequencing for Personal Care Product Development

Introducing Genemarkers’ NextGen sequencing, a cost-effective method for analyzing differentially expressed genes to detect novel biomarkers. This method can help discover new pathways and biological mechanisms of action for ingredients and formulations.

This year's contenders were put through a grueling review by our esteemed panel of judges. Find out who wins the 'claims testing method/tool' category at the Awards Dinner on Sept. 28, co-located with Beauty Accelerate. Register now.

Which Claims Test/Tool Will Win the C&T Allē Award?

Which claims testing method or tool will win the Cosmetics & Toiletries Allē Award? Here are the finalist profiles. Find out who wins on Sept. 28, 2022, at the exclusive Awards Dinner, co-located with Beauty Accelerate. Register now.