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Comparatively Speaking: Dimethicone vs. Methicone

Cyclic compounds have taken some heat in recent years, naturally giving rise to the search for replacements. As such, Tony O'Lenick gives dimethicone and methicone a second and closer look in his latest Comparatively Speaking installment.

Cultivating the Complexity of Naturals

Today’s personal care consumers view themselves as knowledgeable. They seek product labels that offer potent ingredients to stave off the effects of aging. However, today’s formulator must consider two important elements before hitting the bench and mixing naturals and botanicals. The actives in many of these naturals allegedly possess anti-inflammatory, free radical scavenger and skin-healing properties—all anti-aging buzzwords. Though centuries-old folklore regale the healing benefits of many botanicals, most involve reports of items being ingested, not applied directly on the skin. This is an important factor to consider when formulating a natural product: Do the studies indicate that the reported properties are as effective when applied topically? The second question to ask: Does the active in the natural work alone? By L. DiBerardino

Comparatively Speaking: Silicone Anionics and Cationics vs. Soft Complex for Hair Care

The presence of ionic groups affects silicone in an analogous way to how ionic groups affect fatty surfactants. Here, Tony O'Lenick explains how molecular modifications to silicones can result in ionic complexes that are soluble in water and compatible with each other.

Lips Make a Comeback in US, UK

The average price spent on prestige lip color in the U.S. between September 2012 and August 2013 was $22, a 5% increase from the prior year. The average amount spent on lip color across Europe increased slightly as well compared last year.

Comparatively Speaking: Solubility vs. Extraction

In this installment of "Comparatively Speaking," industry expert Tony O'Lenick describes the difference between solubility and extraction, and how various extraction techniques can be used to isolate desired cosmetic actives.

Comparatively Speaking: Dye vs. Pigment

Tony O'Lenick collaborated with Nick Morante to develop a four-part series of the "Comparatively Speaking" column that focuses on color. This is the second in the series, where Morante helps explain the difference between a dye and a pigment.

Comparatively Speaking: Microbiome vs. Metagenome

In this "Comparatively Speaking," Tony O'Lenick refers to Kelly Dobos to explain the difference between a microbiome and a metagenome, the understanding of which can lead to better understanding the anti-aging properties of ingredients and cosmetic products.

Comparatively Speaking: Keratinocyte vs. Corneocyte

Here, industry expert Tony O'Lenick asks Kelly Dobos to explain the difference between keratinocytes and corneocytes. Many skin care products target either keratinocytes or corneocytes; therefore, understanding their differences and the basic structure of human skin is important for formulators.

Comparatively Speaking: Alkoxylation vs. Ethenification

Industry expert Tony O'Lenick discusses the difference between alkoxylation and ethenification; for one, while the two are related, ethenification uses an ester as the reactant rather than alcohol.

Comparatively Speaking: Dimethicone vs. Simethicone

According to Tony O'Lenick, dimethicones are a series of silicone polymers that contain only M and D units, whereas simethicone is a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and silica gel.

Comparatively Speaking: Cofactors vs. Coenzymes

Enzymes for DNA repair or Coenzyme Q10 for antioxidant and antiaging benefits have become typical ingredients in today's skin care. Here, industry expert O'Lenick illustrates the difference between cofactors and coenzymes.

Comparatively Speaking: Epilation vs. Depilation

Both epilation and depilation relate to the removal of unwanted hair. Whereas depilatories remove hair at the surface, epilation is the removal of the entire hair, from beneath the surface.

Comparatively Speaking: Esters vs. Lactones

Industry expert Tony O'Lenick asks Mark Garrison of Avon to explain the difference between esters and lactones, such as lactones being esters in a ring formation.

Compass--Cosmetics & Toiletries Today

The Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine team members’ commitment to our readers is evident in multiple ways: our unique content, our brilliant authors and the recent birth of C&T digital. Our pledge continues, evidenced by our latest launch—C&T Today. This biweekly newsletter, free to subscribers, provides breaking news from both the R&D personal care world, as well as other areas that fringe our industry such as food and pharmaceutical. C&T Today offers insights from around the world reported in our News and In the Mix sections. We also bring exclusive columns from industry experts including, “What’s Wrong with this Formula?” and “Comparatively Speaking.”

Does Your PIF Comply?

Does your PIF comply? European Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 requires that a Product Information File (PIF) be completed and kept updated for each cosmetic product placed on the EU market. What should it contain? Find out here.

Comparatively Speaking: Cosmetic Preservatives

To serve the novice cosmetic chemist and/or refresh the seasoned formulator, Tony O’Lenick asks Perry Romanowski: Why is cosmetic preservation necessary, and why are preservatives vilified?

Compass: Innovation Through Interaction

Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine is grounding itself for fast-forward thinking in the New Year with a new mantra: Innovation Through Interaction. This refrain will drive our content to capture the spirit of invention through collaboration.

Comparatively Speaking—Maceration vs. Decoction

Herein, industry expert Tony O'Lenick explains the difference between maceration and decoction, and how decoction can extract large quantities of inert materials that may contribute to microbiological spoilage.

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