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Type: Article
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Melanin Stimulator, Broad-spectrum Antioxidant, AHA Boost to BHA Solubility and More
Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources, and cover recent patents issued or patent applications in cosmetics, personal care and peripheral markets. This edition features technologies related to skin care actives.
Literature/Data
Skin Antioxidants
The skin is supplied with an antioxidant defense system that includes enzymatic and nonenzymatic components.
Actives
Bio-Botanica offers Licorice Root Extract in Glycerin
Licorice root contains glycyrrhizin and glabridin. Glycyrrhizin is anti-inflammatory; used topically, it may help reduce redness or irritation. It is also an antioxidant. Glabridin may cause skin lightening and reduces dark spots by inhibiting tyrosinase.
Literature/Data
Alpha-Lipoic Acid and Other Topics
Lin et al report that alpha-lipoic acid is ineffective as a topical antioxidant. This contradicts a previously published study that proposed alpha-lipoic acid as an antioxidant for topical application to protect the skin against ultraviolet photodamage including skin cancer and photoaging changes.
Actives
Ingredient Profile—Ascorbic Acid
L-Ascorbic acid (AscA), more commonly referred to as vitamin C, is best known for its vital role in human health and nutrition, where it functions as a cofactor in enzymatic reactions, such as collagen synthesis, and as an antioxidant.
Literature/Data
Lauder Findings on Sirtuins, Stress and Eucalyptus
New findings highlight the importance of sirtuins in skin cell activity, how they relate to environmental signals and circadian rhythm, plus the antioxidant efficacy of eucalyptus.
Actives
microHA—Super Active, Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid (HA) with Outstanding Biological Efficacy
microHATM: A novel bioactive HA with super low molecular weight from natural fermentation process, has excellent transdermal absorption, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and repairing characteristics.
Sun Care
Cosmetics & Toiletries
Sun Protection Formulary
The following sun protection formulas such as a berry antioxidant facial sunscreen, water-in-silicone mineral sunscreen lotion and more. Readers should note in some cases, companies or ingredients may have changed. Read on for more.
Anti-aging/Face
Read the Label: Oskia's Citylife I-Zone Balm
This product contains retinol and astaxanthin—an antioxidant touted to be 6,000 times more powerful than vitamin E—to improve skin tone and texture in pollution-compromised skin. Read on to learn more.
Literature/Data
Technically Speaking--Resveratrol
Polyphenols are among the botanicals reported to possess substantial anticarcinogenic and antimutagenic activities because of their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Ajinomoto Omnichem and Estée Lauder disclose topical compositions containing phosphorylated polyphenols1 in combination with a topically acceptable carrier.
Literature/Data
From Green Tea to Dibenzoylmethane Derivatives
Katiyar et al. have published a review on green tea polyphenolic antioxidants and skin photoprotection. Green tea is consumed as a popular beverage worldwide, particularly in Asian countries such as China, Korea, Japan and India, and it contains polyphenolic compounds known as epicatechins, which are antioxidant in nature.
Literature/Data
TechEdge--Understanding Reactive Oxygen Species
One antioxidant does not address all of the different free radicals that may be formed by an oxidative stress. Thus it is best to use a blend. In selecting antioxidants, a chemist must consider concentration and the effect of synergies or antagonists.
Skin Care
Inside Ingredients: Argan Oil
Argan oil is rich in vitamin E, a strong antioxidant, which lends itself to healthy skin, hair and eyes.
Method/Process
Influence of Skin Diffuse Reflectance on Sun Damage and Ingredient Efficacy Measurements
Current in vitro methods to assess photostability and antioxidant activity do not account for the diffuse reflectance of skin. Described here is an in vitro test that addresses this variable, mimics end-use product conditions and models photodamage processes. The approach is employed to determine the efficacy of an antioxidant from the Camellia sinensis (tea) plant.
Actives
Cosmetic Victories Finalist Profile: Penetrating Peptide for Enhanced ROS Elimination
Human eosinophil cationic protein was utilized as a carrier in this invention from ImDerma Laboratories to quickly penetrate skin cells and deliver high antioxidant efficacy with a low dose of EGCG.
Testing
Chocolate and Wine: The Perfect Match for Skin?
The
International Journal of Molecular Sciences
had us at "hello" this month, with a new study comparing the phenolic compounds in chocolate (actually, cocoa by-products) vs. wine (okay, grape seed) extracts for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory skin benefits.
Actives
Inside Ingredients: Spin Trap
Spin trap provides antioxidant benefits to the skin, and it can easily be paired with treatments for anti-aging and anti-pollution benefits, among others.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Cofactors vs. Coenzymes
Enzymes for DNA repair or Coenzyme Q10 for antioxidant and antiaging benefits have become typical ingredients in today's skin care. Here, industry expert O'Lenick illustrates the difference between cofactors and coenzymes.
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