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Type: Article
Formulas/Products
Label Challenge Answer: Curél Fragrance Free Comforting Lotion
The answer to this week's Label Challenge is the Curél Fragrance Free Comforting Lotion. Made for sensitive skin, the lotion is said to moisturize and prevent dry skin from returning.
Moisturizing
Biomimetic vs. Traditional Skin Moisturization: An In vivo Comparison*
To alleviate skin dryness, humectants and occlusive substances are traditionally used, mostly in combination. A third, relatively recent approach is biomimetic, i.e., active ingredients with lamellar structure containing skin-identical lipids. The aim of this study was to determine whether a biomimetic cream could deliver superior moisturization to human volunteers, compared with a conventional moisturizer containing petrolatum and mineral oil.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Singlet vs. Triplet State of UV Filters
In this discussion, Tony O'Lenick looks to Craig Bonda to explain the photochemical differences between the singlet and triplet states of UV filters. These differences are important to the formulator, as their chemical reactions can lead to the destruction of sunscreens.
Method/Process
Tape Stripping Method in Humans: Comparison of Evaporimetric Methods
The current preliminary study compared the sensitivity and correlation of open chamber device and closed chamber device on a tape stripping human model. The amount of SC removed by tape stripping was also quantified with a protein assay method.
Testing
Q&A: How Do Conventional and Accelerated Preservative Tests Compare?
"How do accelerated and conventional preservative testing compare? What can each measure?" This reader inquiry led us to John Yablonski, of BioControl, who provided the following answer.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Static vs. Dynamic Measurement of Surface Tension
Surface tension determines the properties of formulations. How does one measure surface tension? Since, realistically, there is more than one surface tension in a liquid, measurements can vary depending upon the method used. Here, industry expert Tony O'Lenick discusses static and dynamic approaches to measuring surface tension.
Literature/Data
Baby Skin vs. Adult Skin Structure, Function and Composition
Research shows that baby skin is different than adult skin in terms of structure, biochemical composition and function, as the authors review here. The adaptation of these skin qualities continues during the first year of life and should be considered when designing baby skin care products.
Method/Process
Tape Stripping Method in Humans: Comparison of Evaporimetric Methods
The current preliminary study compared the sensitivity and correlation of open chamber device and closed chamber device on a tape stripping human model. The amount of SC removed by tape stripping was also quantified with a protein assay method.
Color Cosmetics
[with formulas] Comparatively Speaking: Traditional vs. Transfer-resistant Lipstick
This installment of the "Comparatively Speaking" column offers formulators a "Lipstick 101" primer, complete with step-by-step instructions, quality control considerations, and standard vs. transfer-resistant sample formulas.
Literature/Data
Baby Skin vs. Adult Skin Structure, Function and Composition
Research shows that baby skin is different than adult skin in terms of structure, biochemical composition and function, as the authors review here. The adaptation of these skin qualities continues during the first year of life and should be considered when designing baby skin care products.
Natural/Sustainable
Challenges in Creating NPA- and WFM-compliant Natural Formulations
Where does the formulation chemist begin when facing a marketing request for a product stamped with a “natural” label claim? The first step is to identify the certifying organization or government under which the formulation is to be sold, followed by the choice of preservatives. The basic approach to composing natural products is outlined here.
Sensory
Comparatively Speaking: Higher vs. Lower Levels of Surfactant Silicone
Alkyl silicone compounds can be effective in oil-based systems, as they are soluble (i.e. clear when added) and lower surface tension when added to oils. They first lower surface tension by increasing their concentration at the interface, then they form micelles.
Skin Care
Replacing Cyclomethicone? Meet Your Sustainable, No Compromise™ Solution
Neossance® Hemisqualane helps formulators go beyond silicone replacement to meet regulatory restrictions; learn how it builds social responsibility while exceeding customer demands…
Hair Care
Comparatively Speaking: Traditional Fatty Acids vs. Silicone Surfactants
The ability of silicone surfactants to lower the surface tension of fatty surfactants in water will be helpful in making alterations to other properties, such as wetting, foam and rheology.
Moisturizing
Glycerin and Hydroxyethyl Urea: Comparing Two Skin Moisturizers
In a series of evaluations comparing two skin moisturizers, hydroxyethyl urea was found to deliver moisturization efficacy comparable to glycerin, while offering some advantages in terms of sensory perception in skin care products.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Patents, Exclusive Right and Public Development
There are now more than 10 million patents issued in the United States, and they are a crucial part of how we develop cosmetic and personal care products.
Regional
Here Comes the Sun Protection: ISO Test Methods
Our knowledge of the sun and its effects on skin has increased over the years, including the damaging effects of UVA and UVB light. Testing methods for UVA and UVB rays differ; the following is a review of the testing protocols of the European Union and United Kingdom. (Click through to the Digital Edition)
Hair Care
Living Proof Debuts Triple Bond Complex Hair Protectant
Living Proof has released a novel bond-building product: Triple Bond Complex. It is applied after shampoo and conditioner, and is designed to stay in the hair, keeping it healthy and protected.
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