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Type: Article

EGF-mimicking Peptides and Other Topics

This month's survey of recent patent and literature research describes money-making ideas for the personal care industry including EGF-mimicking peptides and other skin treatments, as well as hair growth and makeup concepts.

Makeup Powders Preservation and Water Activity

Spores of Bacillus subtilis and selected molds were used to demonstrate the impact of different thermodynamic water activities on the behavior of microorganisms inoculated in makeup powders with or without preservatives.

Epidermal Permeability Barrier and Other Topics

A historical review on the epidermal permeability barrier: Elias has published a historical review on the epidermal permeability barrier dating from the early days at Harvard to newly emerging concepts. This is a must-read article if you are the least bit interested in skin physiology. I will attempt to cover the highlights here. Elias begins with the statement, “Perhaps no tissue is so physically maligned by processing for light/electron microscopy as is the stratum corneum (SC). To further complicate matters, no tissue of such critical importance for survival has been so intellectually maligned as well.” He then traces the work of now famous investigators including Kligman, Blank and Scheuplein.

UV-Induced Stress and Other Topics

Care Boron and manganese salts and keratinocytes: Chebassier et al report on the stimulatory effect of boron and manganese salts on keratinocytes. Keratinocyte proliferation and migration are essential for the reconstruction of the cutaneous barrier after skin injury. Interestingly, thermal waters which are rich in trace elements (e.g. boron and manganese) are known to improve wound healing.

Quantifying Skin Relaxation and Well-Being

Skin relaxation and well-being can be measured by quantitative methods, and modulated by a Tyr-Arg neuropeptide used in topical cosmetic preparations.

Cooling Agents and Skin Care Applications

Synthetic cooling agents, their mechanism, strength and action on skin are described in this literature survey, drawn primarily from recent patents. Examples illustrate the use of these agents in applications such as after-shave, after-sun, anti-cellulite, and toners.

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Editor's Note: Securing and Reinforcing Skin

This month’s Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T) explores film-formers and related reinforcements to detoxify and secure skin. Topics range from the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of film-forming polysaccharides; TO films and other approaches for transfer-resistant makeup; and more. Additionally outlined are EU/UK regulations for endocrine disruptors and PFAS, and a proposal to shift industry parlance from "clean" to "safe." Lastly, industry experts share insights on purifying and rebalancing skin.

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Cosmetics & Toiletries Sustainable and Natural Formulary

The following hair and scalp care formulas such as eco-conscious face polish, natural tinted blemish balm and more are presented in this formulary. Readers should note in some cases, companies or ingredients may have changed. Read on for more.

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Cosmetics & Toiletries Clean and Sustainable Formulary

The following hair treatment and repair formulas, including shower dough, foot bath oil, bubble bath bar and more are offered as a basis from which to build and create your own. Readers should note in some cases, companies or ingredients may have changed. Read on for more.

Approaches And Issues In Powder Formulations

Approaches and Issues in Powder Formulations

Powder cosmetic products (both pressed and loose) include foundations, eye shadows, primers, blushes, bronzers and all-over shimmer powders. Though the raw materials used in them often are similar, the processing, texture, packaging, applicators and application, along with color development, vary for each type. These variations are described here.

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Focus on Clean and Sustainable Beauty

Support your sustainability and clean beauty goals with just one ingredient: Arlasense™ V5. Experience a sensational skin feel with this emollient ether, which can deliver functionality, aesthetics, and meet vegan requirements.

Formulators and Marketers: Working Better Together

It is often said that the most challenging interface during product development is the one between R&D and marketing. Five years ago the Journal of Product Innovation Management reported that significant barriers exist between these two key product innovation functions.

Ceramides in Healthy and Diseased Skin

Ceramides are the main polar lipids of the SC intercellular lipids; they play an important role in skin barrier function and account for half of the SC lipids by weight. Nine subclasses of ceramides have been described in human SC; these differ from each other by the sphingoid base groups (sphingosine, phytoshpingosine, 6-hydroxysphingosine) and hydrocarbon chain length. Ceramide content and changes of composition are involved in agingand skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis (AD),5–7 psoriasis, contact dermatitis (CD) and irritant dermatitis.

Sunscreen Efficacy Validation and Other Topics

Care pH on epidermal permeability: Hachem et al. have studied the effect of pH on epidermal permeability and skin barrier homeostasis.

Silicone Safety and the Cosmetic Industry

The use of silicones in personal care products continues to expand because of the unique performance attributes they provide and their well-established record of safety. As a result, progressively larger volumes of silicones are being released to the environment, and interest in their life cycle has increased. The present article summarizes relevant fundamental chemical and physical properties of silicones and how these relate to material performance, safety and environmental fate.

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Building Bridges Between Science and Nature

schülke’s sensiva line of multifunctional additives provides personal care products with a balance between efficacy and natural. The latest evolutions of this line, sensiva PA 30 and sensiva PA 40, are as gentle as natural ingredients and as effective as traditional preservatives.

EGF-mimicking Peptides and Other Topics

This month's survey of recent patent and literature research describes money-making ideas for the personal care industry including EGF-mimicking peptides and other skin treatments, as well as hair growth and makeup concepts.

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Cosmetics & Toiletries Natural and Botanical Formulary

The following formulas are offered for your consideration as a basis from which to build and create your own. The information is listed as originally provided by suppliers. Readers should note in some cases, companies or ingredients may have changed.

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