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Type: Article

UVA Skin Protection: Issues and New Developments

Photoinduced degradation and activity in chemical and mineral UV-absorbing actives results in a decrease in UVA protection during topical use, with a corresponding risk of skin pathologies in the user. New developments in UV absorbers are shown to maintain a stable, high level of UVA protection during use.

Sensational Sun Care with Protection and Sensory

Up until now, the sunscreen industry had not been able to deliver the advanced feel that consumers were seeking in their formulations, especially those containing inorganic sunscreen filters. To answer this need, Croda has developed an inorganic sunscreen filter with truly sensational skin feel.

Recent Advances in Biopolymers and Biomedical Materials

This overview of recent literature provides a snapshot of research trends in biopolymers and biomedical polymers. To improve product efficacy, the personal care industry often looks to other sectors for innovative materials and ideas. Here, the authors encourage readers to innovate by technology transfer and by gaining a better understanding of biopolymers.

Consumer Perspective—Skin Types and Sensory Experience

Sophisticated texture and fragrance as part of a formulation’s aesthetics are important to the discerning consumer, and skin type is the primary influence behind how the consumer perceives a skin care product. For example, consumers with dry skin require a richer moisturizer, even though the product should absorb quickly for a smooth finish.

Peer Review and Scientific Journals: A Debate

"How do you feel about peer review in scientific journals?" Rachel Grabenhofer, editor of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, recently asked. Here's how readers responded.

Recent ATPs and the 8th Amendment

Why does the Cosmetic Directive need the 8th Amendment? Some feel it is necessary since the directive has been changed 55 times, including seven amendments and 48 Adaptations to Technical Progress (ATPs). While the industry waits to see what this new amendment will bring, more ATPs have been published, as are described here. Science moves on contrary to political wishes.

Water-soluble UV Filters and Other Topics

This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes money-making ideas for personal care including powders treated with perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane, and a preparation comprising vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid copolymer and water-soluble UV filters.

Technically Speaking: Formulation Technologies and Other Topics

This column discusses the latest technology surrounding skin care, hair care, oral care, AP/DEO and sunscreen formulation. In addition, interesting raw material introductions for the personal care industry are also reviewed.

Nanoencapsulation for Extraction and Release of Fragrance

This article discusses the synthesis of nanoparticles by inverse microemulsion polymerization and evaluates its potential to extract and release the fragrance linalyl acetate. The ability of the liposomes made from phosphatidyl choline and phosphatidic acid to extract organic molecules also was explored.

Innovating for Stage, Screen and Daily Life

In 1927, Max Factor introduced a new makeup formula, Satin Smooth Liquid Panchromatic Foundation, that provided the correct degree of light reflection required by the sensitive new Panchromatic film used for color motion pictures. For this contribution, he was recognized with a special technology Oscar from the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences in 1928.

Sun and Skin Science: A Periodical Review

This review of articles drawn primarily from the pages of the 2005 and 2006 Journal of Investigative Dermatology discusses the skin’s inherent mechanisms for photoimmunoprotection, photoadaptation and photoprotection following exposure to the sun.

Safety and Efficacy of Microfine Titanium Dioxide

Modern microfine TiO2 products attenuate both UVA and UVB. The ingredient is practically chemically inert and “non-penetrating” and can be regarded a safe cosmetic raw material.

In Sight: Fragrance and Cosmetics -- Sharing Strategies

The dynamic duo of fragrance and personal care products share more than consumer demand -- they share their formulators’ quest for global harmonization, need to meet consumer demands and overall concern for the safety of consumers. Ladd Smith, president of the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM), explained some of the issues faced by the fragrance industry.

Temperature-Stable Sun Preparations and Other Topics

Care Topical N-acetyl cysteine: Yu and Van Scott disclose the topical use of Nacetyl cysteine. Methods are described to alleviate or improve various cosmetic conditions and dermatological disorders, including the following: changes or damage to skin, nails and hair; damage associated with intrinsic aging and/or extrinsic aging; as well as changes or damage caused by extrinsic factors. These methods use compositions containing Nacetyl-cysteine (isomeric or non-isomeric forms) and/or free acid, salt, lactone, amide or ester forms of N-acetyl-cysteine. The methods provided may also require application of a composition that contains – in addition to ingredients already mentioned – various cosmetic, pharmaceutical or other topical agents to enhance–or create synergetic effects.

Updates from Europe and the United States

European Updates The European Union (EU) Commission has not issued any changes to the Annexes of the Cosmetic Directive since September 2003 and lags in publishing many changes that have been approved. Adaptation to Technical Progress (opinions put through the EU and Ad Hoc committee review process) will be further delayed because they must be published in all EU languages. As of May 2004, the EU expanded from 15 to 25 countries, complicating the translation list.

Bakuchiol to Stabilize Retinol and Polyunsaturated Lipids

Bakuchiol, a meroterpene of plant origin, is examined here for its ability to stabilize retinol and polyunsaturated lipids. It was found to be approximately 60-fold more effective than natural tocopherol, under both photo-oxidative and singlet oxygen environments. An overview of retinol stabilization, lipid peroxidation and the unique role lipid peroxides play in biology also is included.

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Hand Hygiene and Disease Prevention, Part I

These and other considerations of hand hygiene in light of COVID-19 are presented in this series providing an overview of the state of the art. Do alcohol hand rubs have virucidal activity? Alternatively, are we too clean? What are the regulatory and social aspects of hand hygiene?

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Preserve and Protect: Shielding the Sunscreen Umbrella

The sunscreen market is trending toward higher SPF levels, but these formulas tend to be more difficult to preserve. This study shows how high-SPF sunscreens can be adequately preserved using nontraditional approaches combining antimicrobials and multifunctional additives with boosting aids.

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