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Type: Article

This article discusses psychodermatology and how it can affect mental health. It also discusses Western beauty standards and human perception of beauty.

Psyche, Skin and Synchronization

This article discusses psychodermatology and how it can affect mental health. It also discusses Western beauty standards and human perception of beauty.

Organic and Natural: Caveat Emptor

Previous columns have discussed Canadian Natural Health Products regulations but have steered clear of the natural and organic debate, although this author previously published an article that debates animal versus vegetable ingredients, in which he explains that a chemical is a chemical regardless of its origin; a molecule of glycerin is just that, whether from natural sources like animal or vegetable fat, or from petroleum or biodiesel sources.

Rosacea: Cause, Triggers and Treatment

Rosacea is a common disorder of the facial skin that affects an estimated 14 million Americans. In fact, rosacea is becoming increasingly widespread as the baby boomer generation enters the most susceptible ages for its development.

Neonatal Skin: Structure and Function

Within the embryonic/fetal development program, skin is of major importance. Much of the activity in skin development is centered around formation of the epidermis, which ultimately generates the stratum corneum. The present article touches the surface of the structure and function of neonatal skin.

Odor Reception: Structure and Mechanism

Olfaction is a multi-step process involving the odorant molecule, the odor receptor protein, the pockets for odorant ligand docking, and the odor patterns formed by the glumeruli and decoded by the brain.

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Editor's Note: Health and 'Swell'ness

The consumer driver for health and wellness will no doubt flow into the New Year and beyond. As such, this issue takes inspiration from the spa world.

Peptides Straddle Sun and Skin

Multifunctional ingredients such as melanin-activing peptides (MAPs) are stretching across categories like skin and sun care to offer more to consumers, making these product offerings more attractive.

Sensitive Skin and Skin Barrier

A relationship exists between sensitive skin and skin barrier proteins and lipids, as the author shows here. While formulations to treat sensitive skin have tended to focus on eliminating irritant ingredients and penetration enhancers, an approach is suggested to help the skin build its own barrier defense from the inside-out.

Organic and Natural: Caveat Emptor

Previous columns have discussed Canadian Natural Health Products regulations but have steered clear of the natural and organic debate, although this author previously published an article that debates animal versus vegetable ingredients, in which he explains that a chemical is a chemical regardless of its origin; a molecule of glycerin is just that, whether from natural sources like animal or vegetable fat, or from petroleum or biodiesel sources.

Specialty Pigments: Properties and Effects

Specialty pigments bring unique effects to personal care products, thus they are an important class of color additives for the decorative cosmetic industry. Presented here is a review of their properties and benefits, including mechanisms of refraction and reflection, as well as regulatory considerations.

Dry Skin: Moisturizing and Emolliency

Youthful skin is perceived as moist (or at least nondry), clean soft and virtually free of wrinkles. As consumers advance in age, concern about dry skin increases, and simply washing with soap and water gives way to us of products designed to treat the symptom, which all end up bearing some version of a moisturizer.

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'Nessie' and The Precautionary Principle

Academia continues to conduct experiments demonstrating that nanoparticles do not penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin but skeptics and activist groups do not accept this evidence.

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Cosmetics, Ketchup and Formula Simplicity

"I like it that ketchup still tastes the same to me as it did when [I was a child]. ... I feel reassured that many unnecessary ingredients have not been added. As a cosmetic scientist, while I appreciate when new ingredients improve products, I would feel better if we crafted them without unnecessary additions."

Wrinkle Profilometry and Other Topics

Evaluating the maturity of cornified envelopes: Hirao has published a review on the significance of cornified envelopes in barrier function of the stratum corneum. Cornified envelopes (CE), which are rigid and insoluble structures surrounding the corneocytes, are assembled by crosslinking of several precursor proteins by transglutaminases. The CE provide the basis for barrier function of the stratum corneum.

Polypodium leucotomos and Other Topics

Polypodium leucotomos extract to decrease UV-induced damage: Exposure of human skin to sunlight containing UVA and UVB radiation exposes the skin to deleterious effects such as sunburn, immune suppression, pigmentary changes, photoaging and skin cancer. The mechanism of such cutaneous damage induction is complex, but can be broadly divided into direct oxygen-dependent damage through absorption of photons, and oxidative damage caused by formation of free radicals and reactive oxygen species. This is why antioxidants have been increasingly studied as inhibitors or quenchers of UV-induced cutaneous damage.

Cigarette Smoking and Skin Biomarkers

Some research has been documented as to the damaging effects of smoking on the skin vasculature and on oxygenation in both human and animal models.

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Linking Sensory and Rheology Characteristics

The authors introduce a method to use rheological properties (such as dynamic viscosity and yield stress) to describe and predict skin sensory attributes (such as cohesiveness) of cosmetic products. This is a first step in learning to use emulsion structure to predict sensory attributes.

Sustainable Ingredients and Innovation in Cosmetics

Demands for innovation and nature in personal care products have, until now, experienced parallel growth according to consumer perception; i.e., the need for efficacy and the need for purity. Considering these diverse views, this article explores how it is possible to create products that satisfy both via sustainability; bringing natural sourcing to ingredients that are innovative and scientifically proven.

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