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Section: Testing > Method/Process
Efficacy
[video] Cosmetics R&D Vlog: Testing Color Retaining Shampoos and Conditioners
In this Cosmetics R&D Vlog entry, Michele Behrens, of
Cosmetics & Toiletries
, gained insights from Sabina Wizemann, senior chemist at the Good Housekeeping Institute, about the company's product testing and which products performed the best.
Event Coverage
Alphorns, Cowbells, Magic and Gaming at IFSCC Zurich, part III
The 23rd IFSCC Congress, held Sept. 21-23, 2015, reported “more facts and less illusions” to some 550+ delegates from across the globe at the forefront of cosmetic product innovation.
Method/Process
Hair Color Vibrance Factor to Characterize Shine and Color Intensity*
To evaluate the comprehensive effects of shine and color intensity in hair, a hair color vibrance factor has been developed to enable new claims for hair dye formulas and after-dye treatments. Experimental results described here show how varying the ingredients in shine spray and hair dye formulas affect this factor and correlate with subjective panelist assessments.
Method/Process
Mature and Immature Corneocyte Detection Force Distance Curves vs. Microfluorometry
Here, the author compares two methods to determine the maturity of corneocytes based on their cross-linking that could be used to evaluate the anti-aging effects of molecular agents. The first utilizes microfluorometry, while the second involves F-D curves generated via contact mode AFM. Both methods successfully detected differences in mature or immature corneocytes with 95% confidence.
Safety
FDA, Unilever and GSK Challenge Valisure's Benzene Findings, Test Methods
The FDA recently raised concerns over the test methods of Valisure, the Connecticut-based lab whose reports over benzene in sunscreen and dry shampoo products from Unilever, GSK and others have prompted recalls and class action suits.
Anti-aging/Face
[video] Cosmetics R&D Vlog: Modeling and Mitigating Glycation in Skin
During the IFSCC 2020 event, Ka-Heng Lee, Ph.D., was presented the Henry Maso Award for developing a test model to screen materials for anti-glycation efficacy in skin. Learn more from Cosmetics R&D vlog entry.
Method/Process
Stability Testing Guidance for Product Safety and Shelf-life Insight
Routine stability testing provides cosmetic manufacturers critical data about a product’s safety and shelf life. While not required by legislation, these tests can ensure the successful marketing of products. The present paper provides and overview of the basics manufacturers should cover when stability testing products.
Literature/Data
Turn Back Time: New Findings Suggest Science Could Potentially Reverse the Signs of Aging
It may finally be possible to turn back the clock. Using cellular reprogramming, scientists at the Salk Institute have found a way to reverse signs of aging.
Method/Process
Rapid Colorimetric Analysis of para-Phenylenediamine in Henna-based, Non-permanent Tattoo Color Mixtures
In some henna mixtures, para-phenylenediamine (PPD) has illegally been added and it is responsible for complications such as allergic contact dermatitis. While high-performance liquid chromatography has previously been used to detect PPD, a colorimetric method that is faster and portable, described here, has been developed. For product developers, this method can be used to evaluate henna plant extracts.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Imaging Skin, Simulating Eyelashes, Assaying Immune Response and More
This edition of "Patent Picks" features recently issued patents relevant to advances in testing for cosmetics R&D.
Efficacy
Photostability Test for Additional Sunscreen Claims, Part II: Calculations and Results
Proposed here is an in vitro method, based on UV transmission measurements at two irradiation doses, to test and rank sunscreens based on their photostabilities. This approach was used to assess some 107 sunscreens and shows how, by strictly controlling key parameters, comparisons between the photostabilities of products can be made, with potential for new label claims.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Diffusion Profiling, Optical Tweezer, Fluorescent Microbe Detection and More
Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources and cover recent patents issued, or applied for, in the cosmetic and personal care industries and relevant peripheral markets. This edition features methods and processes for analyzing and producing cosmetic products and materials.
Method/Process
CBD in Effect: Correlating In vitro and Ex vivo Skin Benefits
Primary biological functions of the skin barrier, immune system, lipids, free radicals and extracellular matrix are, in fact, impacted by CBD, as a poster and podium presentation by Genemarkers at SCC Annual demonstrated.
Method/Process
A Rapid and Sensitive In vitro Method to Ascertain Antioxidative Capacity*
New methodologies have recently been developed to determine antioxidant effects but they often require extensive training and are time-consuming to conduct. In the present article, however, the authors describe an in vitro method to detect the effects of antioxidant-containing formulations using photochemiluminescence to provide rapid, accurate and sensitive measurements.
Method/Process
[video] Cosmetics R&D Vlog: Sensory Experience and Clinical Efficacy—Testing Insights
In this Cosmetics R&D Vlog entry, Rachel Grabenhofer, of
Cosmetics & Toiletries
, gained insights from Celine Marque and Cyril Messaraa, two testing experts of Ori-Derm/Oriflame, on sensory and clinical testing today—and in the future. Watch now.
Event Coverage
2 Winners and 4 Finalists Shine in 2023 Cosmetic Victories Competition
Cosmetic Victories finalists included a human skin model, natural senolytic ingredient, photoactivable algae derivative for anti-acne effects, a palm oil alternative and both in vitro sunscreen ecotoxicity and contaminant testing. See who won.
Method/Process
Rapid Colorimetric Analysis of para-Phenylenediamine in Henna-based, Non-permanent Tattoo Color Mixtures
In some henna mixtures, para-phenylenediamine (PPD) has illegally been added and it is responsible for complications such as allergic contact dermatitis. While high-performance liquid chromatography has previously been used to detect PPD, a colorimetric method that is faster and portable, described here, has been developed. For product developers, this method can be used to evaluate henna plant extracts.
Event Coverage
Green Gelling Agent and Real-time Gene Patch Test Top Cosmetic Victories
Cosmetic Victories 2022 winners were announced by Cosmetic Valley on March 22 during a YouTube video. Top accolades went to a sustainable carbohydrate-based gelling agent for oil phases and a diagnostic patch to measure genetic activity in real time.
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