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Practical Foam Science

Foam science can be confusing, so the temptation is to formulate by trial and error. However, understanding the science behind key aspects of foam—i.e., elasticity, DLVO Theory stability, Ostwald ripening, draining and antifoams—and applying this will fast-track foam development. These concepts are detailed here.

Non-Invasive Measurement of Epidermal Proteins for Psoriasis and Skin Care*

Abnormal epidermal turnover in psoriatic skin impairs its barrier function and tissue repair capabilities. Therefore, studies of hyperkeratinization and hyperproliferation have been conducted to better understand the disease. Here, the administration of heavy water and a tape-stripping method are used to measure skin protein turnover in psoriatic skin and surrounding tissues. Results demonstrate benefits over other proliferation measurements.

Assessing Beauty By Facial Topography, Color and Symmetry

The notion of “aging gracefully” no longer applies, as consumers are constantly judging each other’s facial features to assess their beauty. Here, based on recent studies, it is suggested that facial topography, symmetry and color dictate those assessments. While the cosmetics industry can lessen some of these factors, some are a result of biology or lifestyle.

Lightening Skin Through a Melanogenesis-interrupting Peptide

Cutaneous pigmentation is determined by melanogenesis, the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes, and the distribution of melanin to skin, among other processes. Interrupting these would limit skin pigmentation to achieve a better skin lightening effect. Here, the authors review the biological mechanisms of melanin production, then test a peptide designed to act on them for a lightening effect.

Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products—Part 1

There are two general classifications of hair styling products—those that help with style creation and those that prolong the style. Both facilitating style creation and promoting hold longevity stem from the presence of water-soluble polymers in formulations. This paper discusses methods to evaluate these properties and quantify performance.

Flexabrasion A Method For Evaluating Hair Strength

From the Archives … Flexabrasion: A Method for Evaluating Hair Strength

From the December 2001 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries, this article describes how both bending and abrasion should be tested–along with extension–when evaluating hair strength, as the authors show here in tests of an active developed to increase the strength of bleached hair.

A Hair Dyeing Solution for the Dye-allergic Consumer

This article describes how to identify allergic contact dermatitis resulting from hair dye, and outlines prevention principles for those who wish to continue dyeing their hair despite being allergic—with clear implications for those formulating these products. The main sensitizers in hair dye are discussed, along with techniques to minimize exposure to these allergenic substances.

The 3D printer layers materials such as plastic to form a solid object.

3D Printing 'Popping Up' in Personal Care

Three-dimensional (3D) printing is popping up in many fields, including in cosmetics and personal care development; from behind the scenes, in R&D package concept labs, to presentations at in-cosmetics and the April SCS Symposium—even at home, in one former Harvard student's printable cosmetic device concept.

CIDP Adds Japanese and Chinese Test Subjects

The testing company Centre International de Developpement Pharmaceutique (CIDP) announced it has added Chinese and Japanese panelists to its test panel options.

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Designing Mild Personal Care Products: A Case Study

This article reviews the mechanisms underlying skin irritation and sensitization, and methods used in a case study to test cosmetic products for their potential to cause irritation. It also covers the main skin conditions that can influence susceptibility to irritation, as well as ingredients affecting the mildness of cosmetic products.

Tape Stripping Method in Humans: Comparison of Evaporimetric Methods

The current preliminary study compared the sensitivity and correlation of open chamber device and closed chamber device on a tape stripping human model. The amount of SC removed by tape stripping was also quantified with a protein assay method.

Researchers Dig Deeper Into Relationship Between Bacteria and Atopic Dermatitis

Researchers from the Drexel University College of Medicine have established a clearer relationship between Staphylococci bacteria and the conditions atopic dermatitis (AD) and eczema.

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Analyzing Deposition from Rinse-off Hair Products

The most common approach to determine ingredient deposition on hair is to analyze the treated tresses, but this poses several challenges. Instead, the authors describe a novel approach based on determining the amount of ingredient collected in the rinse water, and back-calculating the amount deposited on hair. Development and validation efforts discussed here use polydimethylsiloxane as a model compound.

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A Dermatological View: Antioxidant Inhibits UV Erythema In Vivo in Humans

Described here was an in vivo model to determine antioxidative capacity of a topical skin care emulsion versus the emulsion’s vehicle on human skin that was exposed to UVR. Results suggest the test emulsion and its vehicle control inhibited the induction of erythema and reduced inflammation caused by the UV exposure.

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Method to Reproduce In vitro Cosmetic Product Photostability Findings

The present article describes a reproducible method for determining the photostability of sunscreen products. This method is based in part on the in vitro determination of the UVA protection factor as proposed by Colipa for the irradiation aspect, and on the spectroscopy of a sunscreen in dilute solution for the absorbance measurement aspect.

Objective Emotional Assessment of Perceivable Wellness Effects

Pulse volume amplitude, skin conductivity, facial muscle activity and other psycho-physiological parameters can give an objective emotional assessment of consumer response to personal care products, enabling substantiation of claims for wellness effects, as demonstrated here in the setting of cosmetics and fabric care.

MIT Researchers Develop 'Feature Tuning' Algorithm

Researchers at MIT have developed an algorithm for the “feature tuning” of digital images, specifically faces, for improved memorability and other qualities. While the technology is implicated for effects in social media, it also suggests new considerations for digital imaging in cosmetic product development.

Shiseido to Open Center for Hair Regeneration Research

The Shiseido Cell-Processing and Expansion Center (SPEC) is set to open on May 1, 2014, and will centralize the research and development of regenerative hair treatments.