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Ascorbyl Lactoside: A New Vitamin C Derivative for Effective Skin Whitening

A new vitamin C derivative, ascorbyl lactoside (AsL), was synthesized and characterized for its stability and safety, and evaluated for anti-tyrosinase and melanin reduction effects. The material showed excellent whitening effects and exhibited better stability than ascorbic acid. It also possessed the lowest cytotoxicity, in comparison with ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid and arbutin.

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Sea Anemone Delivery of Collagen and γ-PGA for Anti-aging Benefits

The effective delivery of youth-preserving collagen and moisture remains a cosmetic Holy Grail. In response, this study describes a natural microinjection system based on the stinging cells of the Cnidaria sea anemone to effectively puncture the stratum corneum layer and deliver its content—both marine collagen and γ-PGA—into skin, offering a promising new class of solutions to age-old challenges.

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Perking Up Skin: Green Coffee Promotes Barrier Recovery, Turn Over and Lightening

Epidermal barrier recovery and the desquamation of dead corneocytes reinvigorate aged skin. Hyperpigmentation accumulates as skin ages. A green coffee bean extract was tested here and found to address these issues.

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How Bee-friendly Aqueous Propolis ‘Sticks it’ to Microbiota Dysbiosis, Skin Conditions

An aqueous, or white propolis, extract was tested in vitro and shown to affect microbiota connected with skin conditions. In vivo trials also demonstrated the ingredient’s safety and efficacy in reducing skin discomfort, dryness and body odor.

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Infusing New Life into an Old Reliable Skin Treatment: Retinaldehyde

Retinaldehyde is suitable for many skin care applications, and when combined with other substances becomes even more versatile. One of its newest topical delivery systems provides multifunctional opportunities.

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Illuminating Skin Radiance: α-Crystallin as a Target to Achieve Glass Skin

A newly developed peptide acts as a bio-highlighter and makeup alternative for a natural, glass skin appearance. Here, it is demonstrated to induce the production of endogenic a-crystallin, a molecular chaperone that plays a crucial role in skin proteostasis.

Whether the industry likes it or not, ingredients or finished formulas require claims substantiation, and neither suppliers nor customers can pass this responsibility on to one another.

Want the Truth: Claims Development is More Than Just Evidence.*

Both marketing and R&D have major responsibilities in the claims development process. But that’s not all—regulations, risk, vulnerabilities, communication, study design, costs and more also are at play. These and other influences in the claims development process are discussed in the present article.