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SPF/Sun
Sunscreen Saga Continues, Thanks to EWG
The FDA and PCPC came to the industry's defense this week, when the Environmental Working Group called out sunscreen makers for adding anti-inflammatory and antioxidant ingredients to products, to allegedly "mask" signs of sunburn and falsify SPF ratings.
Claims/Labeling
Substantiating Claims for a Tanning Magnifier
Tanning magnifiers, known in the United States as tanning accelerators, enhance the substrate or the production of melanin. One example is an innovative N-acyl derivative from L-tyrosine. This article describes a way to evaluate its pigmentation efficacy after UV irradiation. Also discussed is the regulatory status of tanning magnifiers.
Claims/Labeling
Is ‘Anti-pollution’ Just a Ruse?
Remember "naturals?" Where did they lead us? In some cases, to benefit-infused natural products but in others, to greenwashing and chemical-free claims. Enter anti-pollution.
Skin Care
Supplier Roundtable: Proxy Formulating—Using Alternative Ingredients
In this Supplier Roundtable, suppliers were challenged with the question of how to utilize "proxy" ingredients to keep up with market trends and on top of ingredient controversy.
Claims/Labeling
FDA Warns About Stimulating Collagen, Lightening and Other Claims
This article reminds us that the FDA has issued a warning about claims which would imply certain cosmetics would be considered drugs under the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act.
Natural/Sustainable
One, Two, Three Formulations as Easy as A, B, C
AAK has developed three formulas—a body cream, face polish and hand cream—that meet COSMOS requirements to offer consumers more natural and ideal selections for eco-friendly products.
Claims/Labeling
FDA Cracks Down on Skin Lighteners
Skin whitening products walk the line between cosmetics and drugs, and often carry dangerous side effects. Flawless Beauty's injectable whitening products were struck down by a federal judge, putting lightening products under the lens.
News
Why Beauty Brands Are Pushing Anti-pollution Claims
Targeting the impact of environmental stress in a changing climate.
Organic/COSMOS
The Issues Common With Trending Natural Ingredients: The Pitfalls of Naturals
The ever-evolving nature of skin care presents ongoing challenges for marketing claims and labeling. Here are a few things to watch out for.
Claims/Labeling
Labeling Claims
Little is more confusing to marketers and cosmetic formulators than product claims regulations. Questions regarding the rules commonly arise.
Claims/Labeling
Labeling Claims
Little is more confusing to marketers and cosmetic formulators than product claims regulations. Questions regarding the rules commonly arise.
Event Coverage
SCC Tackles Claims Substantiation and Genetic Testing at Annual Meeting
At the Society of Cosmetic Chemists' (SCC) Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase, which took place on Dec. 12-13, 2013 at the New York Hilton, pertinent subjects were tackled, such as modern claims substantiation, nanomaterials, genetic testing and cosmetic dermatology.
Organic/COSMOS
Confounding Labels: One ‘Natural’ = 100+ ‘Chemicals’
As most formulators are aware, creating a product with three or more botanicals in it means a final formula containing more than 200 chemicals. How is this better for skin? It's not, according to this commentary.
Skin Care
Anti-pollution Skin Care: It's Real
'No kidding it's real,' you're probably thinking. Like naturals, though, at first it felt more like a passing fad. Now we know better, thanks to new research, some of which was presented in London earlier this year.
Regional
Canada’s ‘High’ Hopes for Regulatory Reform: Cannabis Legislation Sparks Debate
Canada is preparing for a regulatory overhaul that could replace outdated rules and classifications with one category:"Consumer Health Products." Cannabis-containing products also face trailblazing reform as countries and states disagree on the controversial ingredient's legality. What parallels can be drawn? Read on to learn.
Methods/Tools
IFSCC 2014 Explores Social, Psychological and Sensorial Aspects of Beauty
As one might expect from an event centered around beauty and staged in Paris, the 28th Congress of the International Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) was nothing less than fabulous. However, the glamour and fanfare was deeply rooted in science.
Efficacy
The Dirty Truth About Pollution-induced Skin Aging: The AhR Pathway Tells All
Studies have shown that exposure to airborne, traffic-related particulate matter (PM) is associated with increased signs of extrinsic skin aging.1-3 Using model particles as surrogates, these researchers developed an in vitro model to evaluate premature aging induced via the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) pathway. They found a new AhR antagonist could inhibit the up-regulation of genes indicative for premature aging.
Sun Care
Safer Solar Protection: Going Beyond UV Defense, Part I
This two-part article is controversial. In part I, it reviews a number of concerns about the safety of traditional sunscreens. In part II, scheduled for February, the authors propose new approaches to move past these issues.
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