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The Dirty Truth About Pollution-induced Skin Aging: The AhR Pathway Tells All

Studies have shown that exposure to airborne, traffic-related particulate matter (PM) is associated with increased signs of extrinsic skin aging.1-3 Using model particles as surrogates, these researchers developed an in vitro model to evaluate premature aging induced via the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) pathway. They found a new AhR antagonist could inhibit the up-regulation of genes indicative for premature aging.

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Facial Sheet Masks on the Go: Reviving the Face

Facial sheet masks have numerous benefits, such as delivering active materials to the skin and leaving the face feeling moisturized. Innovations in sheet masks are on the rise, and formulators are searching for new materials that are safer, friendlier for the skin and environment, and sensorially pleasing.

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6 New Trends in Cosmetic Technology

The topics described during in this conference session were but a sampling of innovation scattered throughout the in-cosmetics Global show floor. But their overall tone seemed to accurately reflect a larger future direction of the industry.

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Biocatalyst for Change, Part II: Strategies to Engineer Pigment Production

Anthocyanins are flavonoid compounds found naturally in plants with promising potential for skin health and protection benefits. Sustaining their natural supply for industry has become increasingly important; as such, microbial routes for their production have been explored, such as those described here.

Emotion, Visualization and Innovation at IFSCC in Rio

The IFSCC conference covered an array of subjects—from the psychology of rotating brushes, and discussion of neuron-adipocyte crosstalk to limit emotional stress-mediated fat accumulation; to hair straightening and conditioning, various visualization tools, and novel formulation approaches.

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Safer Solar Protection: Going Beyond UV Defense, Part I

This two-part article is controversial. In part I, it reviews a number of concerns about the safety of traditional sunscreens. In part II, scheduled for February, the authors propose new approaches to move past these issues.

Protection of Retinol in Organosilica Microparticles

In this article, retinol encapsulated in organosilica microparticles (12–14% w/w) having an average particle size of 0.3 micron are shown in a 40-day test period to exhibit enhanced stability to oxidation when compared with similar commercial stabilized retinol products.

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Speeding Up R&D: Spotting Clues to Anticipate Stability Problems

Besides directing cosmetic beginners to read the abundant literature in the field of stability, the aim of this article is to give some clues for starting stability matters “with the right foot”—indeed, to anticipate stability problems helps to speed up the R&D process.

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Biotechnology in Beauty: The Future of Formulation – A Cosmetic Chemist’s Perspective

Cosmetics & Toiletries is delighted to welcome the latest addition to its regularly featured content lineup: Biotechnology in Beauty, by Krupa Koestline, chief formulator and owner of KKT Innovation Labs, and the 2024 recipient of the Florence Wall Women in Cosmetic Chemistry Award.

Antiaging in a Different Light: Assessing How Chromophores Color Perception

Aging influences cutaneous parameters that give rise to progressive changes in three skin chromophores, altering the visual homogeneity of skin. To address these changes, the authors developed and examined the effects of a complex based on Siegesbeckia orientalis and Rabdosia rubescens using a novel skin imaging technique.

Whether the industry likes it or not, ingredients or finished formulas require claims substantiation, and neither suppliers nor customers can pass this responsibility on to one another.

Want the Truth: Claims Development is More Than Just Evidence.*

Both marketing and R&D have major responsibilities in the claims development process. But that’s not all—regulations, risk, vulnerabilities, communication, study design, costs and more also are at play. These and other influences in the claims development process are discussed in the present article.

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Shea Butter Submicroemulsion for Transparent Silicone-free, Sulfate-free Conditioning Shampoos

This article explores the incorporation of a shea butter submicroemulsion to improve the performance of silicone-free shampoos.

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How In silico Innovation is Transforming Cosmetic Ingredient Discovery and Development

This article delves into in silico methods including AI and machine learning for cosmetic ingredient discovery and development. It covers virtual screening, QSAR analyses and molecule repurposing, and gives a case study in progress for psoriasis peptides.