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Patent Picks—Quantifying Hair/Eyelashes, Reinforcing Barrier, Silicone Nail Films and More

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources and cover recent patents issued, or applied for, in the cosmetic and personal care industries and relevant peripheral markets. This edition features the latest inventions related to an array of topics; ranging from soft hold in hair and barrier function in skin, to methods for quantifying hairs and improving nail polish films.

Skin Aging Characteristics of Russian Women

There appear to be no published studies on facial aging in Russian women, despite clear interest from the industry in this market. In order to formulate products, it is necessary to understand the end consumer. This article therefore explores a recent study of 203 Russian women and describes their aging specificities versus other, more studied Caucasian populations.

C&T Summit Explores Proteomics to Examine Hair Damage

Damage to the hair shaft can lead to the breakdown of proteins from the hair, which can provide an early diagnostic for damage before it is manifested at the macro-structural level. Mike Davis will explore this approach during the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit this June.

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Lipsticks: How They Have Changed and Where They Are Going

The composition of lipstick formulations and means of manufacturing and filling them have progressed significantly in the last 100 years. This article reviews the most notable developments in methods of production, innovations in both functional and active ingredients, and breakthroughs in processing. In addition, it explores what the future could hold for lipsticks.

Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception

This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.

Measuring Hair Strength, Part II: Fiber Breakage

In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed fatigue testing, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.

Sustainability Push from Consumers Required for Manufacturers to Respond

At recent European and Asia-Pacific events, a number of speakers suggested that consumer behavior was becoming a major barrier to sustainable development in the beauty industry.

Measuring Hair Strength, Part II: Fiber Breakage

In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed fatigue testing, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.

Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception

This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.

Role of Photography in Acne Metrics*

To optimally treat acne, an accurate severity assessment is required1 and while visual assessments have relied on text descriptions, lesion counting and photographic methods, an ideal grading system would be more accurate and reproducible. Further, its ease of use, and time and monetary costs are also important. Here, the authors consider different approaches for improved acne assessments using photography.

Water Activity

Water activity is a key consideration in preserving cosmetics. As this article discusses, there is an important difference between the amount of water present in a product and availability of this water for microorganism growth.

Sustainability Push from Consumers Required for Manufacturers to Respond

At recent European and Asia-Pacific events, a number of speakers suggested that consumer behavior was becoming a major barrier to sustainable development in the beauty industry.

Role of Photography in Acne Metrics*

To optimally treat acne, an accurate severity assessment is required1 and while visual assessments have relied on text descriptions, lesion counting and photographic methods, an ideal grading system would be more accurate and reproducible. Further, its ease of use, and time and monetary costs are also important. Here, the authors consider different approaches for improved acne assessments using photography.

Silicone Safety and the Cosmetic Industry

The use of silicones in personal care products continues to expand because of the unique performance attributes they provide and their well-established record of safety. As a result, progressively larger volumes of silicones are being released to the environment, and interest in their life cycle has increased. The present article summarizes relevant fundamental chemical and physical properties of silicones and how these relate to material performance, safety and environmental fate.

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Elicitation of Rice Tissue Culture to Maximize Skin Epigenetic Modulation

Meristem cells of Himalayan red rice were cultured and elicited to produce secondary metabolites. Through an in vitro assay, rejuvenation was shown at the epigenetic level of treated cells. An increased expression of dermatopontin in keratinocytes, besides being a novel finding, implies that ReGeniStem™ Red Rice may be able to firm the skin and improve the skin barrier function.

Unilever, University of Liverpool Partner to Research Next Generation of Renewable Chemicals

The three-year project will involve developing renewable chemicals from the surplus sugars, fats, oils and carbohydrates produced via commodity byproducts and forestry wastes.

Silverson Solves Conversion Problems in the Lab

Having problems with conversions during product development in the lab? There's now an app for that. Silverson Machines Inc. has launched Silverson Conversion Tools, an app available in Apple’s App Store that contains a versatile set of conversion and calculation tools suitable for use in almost any process environment.

Emotion, Visualization and Innovation at IFSCC in Rio

The IFSCC conference covered an array of subjects—from the psychology of rotating brushes, and discussion of neuron-adipocyte crosstalk to limit emotional stress-mediated fat accumulation; to hair straightening and conditioning, various visualization tools, and novel formulation approaches.