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Cosmetic Ingredients
Characterization of Multilamellar Vesicles for Cleansing Applications
In the present article, the authors characterize a multilamellar vesicle (MLV) system used in personal care and verify its structure via X-ray scattering, rheology and fluorescence microscopy. This enabled the study of MLV formation to investigate bulk rheology characteristics. The results are presented here as application-relevant properties.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Microneedles: Just Deep Enough
Microneedle technology could, with supporting research, serve as a novel delivery system for personal care applications. Additionally, ingredients previously labeled as ineffective may find new life via this method, increasing the opportunity for skin care R&D.
Method/Process
Sensitive Skin Syndrome: Methodological Approaches
Manufacturers of topical products perform rigorous testing to assure their products are safe for consumers. Of particular interest is determining whether products will irritate the skin of the approximately 50% of consumers surveyed who consider themselves to have “sensitive” skin. The present article describes three such irritancy tests.
Methods/Tools
Multiple Emulsions: Applications in Cosmetics
Multiple emulsions and factors affecting their preparation are discussed in this article that also lists the advantages of each of the two main types—w/o/w and o/w/o—and gives examples of each in cosmetic formulations.
Sensory
A New Formulators' Tool for Customizing Sensory
Optimizing the sensory properties of o/w emulsion systems is an ongoing challenge for formulators, thus tools to simplify this process are desirable. Here, the authors describe a visual tool to assist in selecting the right combination of certain crosslinked acrylic rheology modifiers and specialty emollient esters to meet target aesthetics.
Sensory
Measuring and Pre-selecting Functional Filler Pigments
Functional filler pigments play an important role in adjusting optical properties such as transparency and soft focus effects in cosmetics. However, their suitability for specific formulas is not apparent until time-consuming tests using many different fillers have been conducted. A new method to predetermine the soft focus effects of functional filler pigments is described here.
Methods/Tools
Plant Cell Technology
While plant stem cells initially were marketed for their technological potential, they recently have been identified as an alternative, sustainable mean to produce nature-derived extracts and molecules.
Animal Alternatives
A Synthetic Tissue-based In vitro Ocular Irritation Assay
The testing of personal care products for ocular irritancy ensures their safety, proper labeling and consumer satisfaction. In relation, there is a current demand for animal-alternative tests. Thus, described here is a method using synthetic tissue to test for mild, moderate and severe ocular irritation, including data validating this method as an effective means to screen products.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Diffusion Profiling, Optical Tweezer, Fluorescent Microbe Detection and More
Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources and cover recent patents issued, or applied for, in the cosmetic and personal care industries and relevant peripheral markets. This edition features methods and processes for analyzing and producing cosmetic products and materials.
Natural/Sustainable
Unilever, University of Liverpool Partner to Research Next Generation of Renewable Chemicals
The three-year project will involve developing renewable chemicals from the surplus sugars, fats, oils and carbohydrates produced via commodity byproducts and forestry wastes.
Methods/Tools
Greening Personal Care Chemistry
Multiple economic, legislative and customer pressures are forcing an unprecedented level of change in chemical manufacturing and the design of chemical products. The authors examine the drivers for change and opportunities across the product lifecycle for green and sustainable chemistry including the use of renewable resources, cleaner synthesis methods and greener products.
Methods/Tools
Partnering to Make Metathesis a Commercial Reality
In materials science, metathesis has a unique ability: it fills gaps. 9-Decenoic methyl ester is one of the specialty materials produced by Elevance via olefin metathesis, an organic reaction that can break natural oils into pieces and recombine them without undesired by-products and hazardous wastes.
Methods/Tools
Cold Processing of Emulsions
The use and application of emulsions and emulsion science are widespread through the personal care industry. Conventional methods for processing emulsions require significant quantities of energy and time, thus cold process emulsion technologies have gained popularity. These provide the means to reduce both the energy demand and timescale of manufacturing processes, as will be described here.
Methods/Tools
Silverson Solves Conversion Problems in the Lab
Having problems with conversions during product development in the lab? There's now an app for that. Silverson Machines Inc. has launched Silverson Conversion Tools, an app available in Apple’s App Store that contains a versatile set of conversion and calculation tools suitable for use in almost any process environment.
Methods/Tools
Cold Processing of Emulsions
The use and application of emulsions and emulsion science are widespread through the personal care industry. Conventional methods for processing emulsions require significant quantities of energy and time, thus cold process emulsion technologies have gained popularity. These provide the means to reduce both the energy demand and timescale of manufacturing processes, as will be described here.
Methods/Tools
Sustainable Ingredients and Innovation in Cosmetics
Demands for innovation and nature in personal care products have, until now, experienced parallel growth according to consumer perception; i.e., the need for efficacy and the need for purity. Considering these diverse views, this article explores how it is possible to create products that satisfy both via sustainability; bringing natural sourcing to ingredients that are innovative and scientifically proven.
Methods/Tools
Sustainable Ingredients and Innovation in Cosmetics
Demands for innovation and nature in personal care products have, until now, experienced parallel growth according to consumer perception; i.e., the need for efficacy and the need for purity. Considering these diverse views, this article explores how it is possible to create products that satisfy both via sustainability; bringing natural sourcing to ingredients that are innovative and scientifically proven.
Methods/Tools
The Harvest of Marine-derived Cosmetic Ingredients: A Case Study of
Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae
This paper reviews the knowledge and nature of the harvest practices for the octocoral
Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae
.
P. elisabethae
extract has been used for nearly two decades in cosmetics and preparations for skin benefits, and a review of the harvest provides product developers with an interesting case study of the harvest of a marine resource.
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