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Type: Article

Section: Formulas/Products > Sun Care

What’s New in Skin Protection: A Periodical Review

The author reviews recent publications discussing the protection of human skin against photodamage, reactive oxygen species, and other skin health topics.

Science Exposed—What Should the Minimum Recommended SPF Be to Avoid Sunburn?

“Science Exposed” is a new column aimed at digging into industry controversies to strip them down to the scientific facts. Here, sun protection expert Brian Diffey, PhD DSc, critiques the current SPF test method.

Compass: The Diamond Issue

This “exciting” issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine aims to quench your formulating fancies with additional features on texture analysis to quantify skin care claims as well as polyalphaolefins to enhance anhydrous stick formulations such as lipsticks. Pucker up—here’s another diamond of an issue.

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Hello Hemisqualane, Bye-bye Isohexadecane & Fluid Silicones

Sustainably sourced from sugarcane, Neossance® Hemisqualane is an ideal sustainable alternative to Isohexadecane and fluid silicones.

Formulators Forum - Sunscreens: Current Issues and Controversies

Like you, I have attended an astounding number of scientific conferences and have read seemingly unending technical papers dealing with what most of the time are topics of interest to cosmetic chemists. While we always can learn from these meetings and articles, it seems to me that there is a real lack of technical controversy. We sit and quietly accept what is heard as gospel. While we may not agree, we nevertheless just sit back and don’t ask the hard questions. Does this make sense? Was the test design reasonable? Did they use the proper controls?

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Patent Pick: Fragrance Duration—A 'Pressing' Issue

The pressure is always on for perfumers to develop means to extend fragrance duration from perfumes as well as personal care products. In this patent application, Unilever inventors take that pressure in a new direction: vapor pressure.

UVA Skin Protection: Issues and New Developments

Photoinduced degradation and activity in chemical and mineral UV-absorbing actives results in a decrease in UVA protection during topical use, with a corresponding risk of skin pathologies in the user. New developments in UV absorbers are shown to maintain a stable, high level of UVA protection during use.

UVA Skin Protection: Issues and New Developments

Photoinduced degradation and activity in chemical and mineral UV-absorbing actives results in a decrease in UVA protection during topical use, with a corresponding risk of skin pathologies in the user. New developments in UV absorbers are shown to maintain a stable, high level of UVA protection during use.

Singlet Quenching Proves Faster is Better for Photostability

The faster a photostabilizer works, the fewer opportunities for destructive chemical reactions. Here, the author describes a new photostabilizer, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, which acts by quenching the singlet excited state of UV filters. The data shows how this material sets a new standard for the photostabilization of avobenzone, even in the presence of octyl methoxycinnamate.

Singlet Quenching Proves Faster is Better for Photostability

The faster a photostabilizer works, the fewer opportunities for destructive chemical reactions. Here, the author describes a new photostabilizer, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, which acts by quenching the singlet excited state of UV filters. The data shows how this material sets a new standard for the photostabilization of avobenzone, even in the presence of octyl methoxycinnamate.

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Here Comes the Sun Protection: ISO Test Methods

Our knowledge of the sun and its effects on skin has increased over the years, including the damaging effects of UVA and UVB light. Testing methods for UVA and UVB rays differ; the following is a review of the testing protocols of the European Union and United Kingdom. (Click through to the Digital Edition)

Sunscreen Regulations: Why 'Final' is Not the Right Word

Over the past 25 years, no category of “cosmetics” has seen change like sunscreens. This discussion reviews how current regulations have come to be, and looks to where they are headed.

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Why the FDA's 'Sunscreens in the Bloodstream' Study is Flawed

A recent study published in the Journal of the American Medical Association tested the potential systemic absorption of certain sunscreens. Results identified their presence in subjects' bloodstreams; however, as industry expert David Steinberg explains, the study is misleading and fails to consider crucial variables.

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Total Exposure: The Future of Sun Care is Full Light Protection

History has revealed what has become well-known today: the human skin requires sun protection. But are UV filters enough? Here, the authors discuss the negative effects caused by other wavelengths. In addition, they propose a full light defense strategy.

Enzymatic Synthesis of Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate from the Natural Ethyl Ester

The naturally occurring ethyl ester of p-methoxycinnamic acid can undergo efficient enzymatic conversion into the corresponding isoamyl ester via lipase catalysis using natural isoamyl alcohol as reactant. This transesterification provides a natural route to a popular sunscreen filter.

'[Sunscreen] developers will be able to innovate more efficiently while maintaining high standards of quality and safety for consumers.'

[update] How ISO's Endorsement of Two Test Methods Will Enlighten Sunscreen Development

After 10 years, sunscreen developers are nearing the finish line for more ethical, cost efficient, reliable and faster testing thanks to ISO's endorsement of two standards. The final vote was in September 2024. Here, two experts explain what this means.

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Protect Your Hair Color Year-Round

Saying goodbye to the summer sun is never easy, but protecting your hair color in any season is with Croda’s ChromAveil™.

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Combing Through Sun and Pollutant Effects on Hair

Trefor A Evans, Ph.D., institute fellow at TRI Princeton and long-time C&T scientific advisor, offers his insights on the latest developments in hair science and what they mean to the cosmetic formulator.

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