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Section: Formulas/Products > Skin Care

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[video] Water Resistance vs. Viscosity and Texture of Formulas

How might variables that impart desired water-resistant properties impact the rheology and texture of emulsions? Here, Beverley Madlin, of the London College of Fashion, explains, in a poster she presented during the 2019 IFSCC Conference in Milan.

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Shiseido Uncovers Root Cause of Wrinkles and 'Pre-wrinkles'

Shiseido's 3D imaging technology has uncovered the root cause of wrinkles and "pre-wrinkles": an elasticity gap between the stratum corneum and dermis.

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An Offensive Defense: Minimizing Preservatives, Maximizing Protection and Resources

Designing formulations with maximum preservation efficacy using minimum preservative quantities is vital for several reasons, outlined here. This strategy is referred to as an “offensive defense,” and requires leveraging the right preservatives and levels for given formulation designs.

Antibacterial and Anti-inflammatory Effects of a Magnolia Extract

P. acnes can exacerbate acne as a result of the inflammatory properties of the cell wall short chain fatty acids and chemotactic factors. Here, researchers investigate the effectiveness of a magnolia extract as an acne treatment, based on the known anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects from magnolol and honokiol within the material.

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Patent Pick: Matte Makeup and the Feel of Fillers

Matte makeup stands strong in its ability to even out skin tone and absorb excess moisture but wavers in one area: the feel of fillers. This was the focus of a new L'Oréal patent.

Characterizing and Evaluating the Effectiveness of Volcanic Pumice Exfoliants

Pumice has a recognized application as an abrasive agent to promote exfoliation of the skin. In this study, different particle size fractions of pumice sampled from several geologic occurrences in São Miguel’s island, the Azores archipelago, were used in the preparation of exfoliation formulations. Gels and soap were prepared and characterized, and their efficacy evaluated.

Antibacterial and Anti-inflammatory Effects of a Magnolia Extract

P. acnes can exacerbate acne as a result of the inflammatory properties of the cell wall short chain fatty acids and chemotactic factors. Here, researchers investigate the effectiveness of a magnolia extract as an acne treatment, based on the known anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects from magnolol and honokiol within the material.

By decoding the hallmarks of aging, L'Oreal believes it can usher in a new era of beauty, one that focuses on root causes.

L'Oreal Previews the Future of Skin and Hair Longevity

From emerging diagnostics and ingredients to new launches, the beauty giant offers a view of beauty's future.

Photostabilization of Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate by Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene

This study examines the photostability of retinol and retinyl palmitate, finding they break down rapidly when exposed to UV radiation in the 290–400 nm range. This severely reduces their concentrations in finished formulations. However, when combined with ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, these retinoids are shown to be protected against photodegradation, thus preserving their concentrations both during the manufacturing process and following application to the skin.

Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum

The penetration routes of substances through the stratum corneum and how these transport pathways function are becoming better understood. Despite this progress, however, the penetration mechanisms of cosmetic formulations remain mysterious. This overview presents current knowledge on the various pathways of penetration, and suggests that even if cosmetic formulations penetrate no deeper than the surface, their efficacy may still be optimal.

Consumer Perception of Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Qualitative Assessment

There are varying definitions, associations and overall impressions of fine lines and wrinkles among different consumer segments. The findings of this study offer invaluable insight into consumers’ opinions, and by qualitative in-depth interviews, they provide a well-defined vernacular for aging descriptors. This language is critical for developmental research, consumer evaluation and marketing within the cosmetic industry.

Report Praises the Skin and Health Benefits of Garlic

In addition to the antifungal, antiaging and skin smoothing benefits of garlic, a study has found the fragrant food to increase antioxidant levels and possibly lower blood pressure and glucose levels.

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Replacing Microplastics: Natural Cellulose Offers Gentle and Biodegradable Exfoliation

While cosmetics represent a small source of primary and secondary microplastics in the environment, it is a source that could easily be avoided by using natural biodegradable alternatives. As such, described herein is a research project to identify a natural, biodegradable alternative for peel applications. Plant cellulose was of particular interest.

Dispelling the 'Law of Wiechers' and Maximizing Actives Delivery

Jonathan Hadgraft, PhD, named "The Law of Wiechers in Cosmetics" after his friend and colleague. This law argues that all actives should be formulated at 3% for maximum delivery, which Wiechers recently discussed in honor of Hadgrafts's 60th birthday.

Photostabilization of Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate by Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene

This study examines the photostability of retinol and retinyl palmitate, finding they break down rapidly when exposed to UV radiation in the 290–400 nm range. This severely reduces their concentrations in finished formulations. However, when combined with ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, these retinoids are shown to be protected against photodegradation, thus preserving their concentrations both during the manufacturing process and following application to the skin.

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Cosmetovigilance and Safety Assessment in the World of Active Ingredients

It can be deduced from today's scientific literature that countless ingredients have been developed with the intent to alter the structure and function of human skin. This raises important questions in terms of how these products should be regulated and what types of safety standards they should be held to.

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A Review of Natural Current and Future ‘Body-sculpting’ Cosmetics

A review of select biochemical mechanisms and botanical ingredients that affect the accumulation of fat in the body is presented here. Future approaches to adipose management, such as by gene modulation, also are explored.

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IFSCC Presents the Effectiveness, Economic and Ecological Aspects of Cosmetics

After sudden flooding in Thailand postponed the initial 2012 International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Conference date, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in Thailand (SCCT) organized a successful event at Bangkok’s Dusit Thani Hotel on Dec. 12–14, 2011.

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