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Natural/Sustainable
Challenges in Creating NPA- and WFM-compliant Natural Formulations
Where does the formulation chemist begin when facing a marketing request for a product stamped with a “natural” label claim? The first step is to identify the certifying organization or government under which the formulation is to be sold, followed by the choice of preservatives. The basic approach to composing natural products is outlined here.
Actives
Oak, Green Tea and Orange Derivatives to Disrupt JAK/STAT, NF-κB Irritation Pathways
Activation of NF-κB and JAK/STAT pathways in keratinocytes leads to the release of immunomodulating factors that sustain an amplification loop between the keratinocyte and infiltrating immune cell, leading to skin irritation. To disrupt this loop, two complexes, one based on oak and green tea extracts, and another on orange flavonoids, were developed and are shown here to immediately soothe skin.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Sugar Sunscreen, UV Microcapsules, ‘Rugby Ball’ Particles and More
Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features technologies related to sun care and UV protection, as well as reversing the effects of UV damage.
Rheology/Thickener
Successfully Formulating at the Skin’s Natural Surface pH
Formulating high-performance skin care systems at low pH levels (4.0 to 5.5) can be beneficial for consumers and formulators in many ways, according to Florence Pecquerie, applications scientist and formulator for Lubrizol. Here, she reviews the current knowledge on skin surface pH, discusses the importance of pH on the efficacy of organic acid preservatives in formulation and introduces a new crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Read the Label: Selfless by Hyram—Mandelic Acid & Rice Bran Gentle Exfoliating Serum
This "Read the Label" analyzes Selfless by Hyram's Mandelic Acid & Rice Bran Gentle Exfoliating Serum, which is said to gently exfoliate skin with a blend of PHAs, salicylic acid, niacinamide and more.
Skin Care
Cosmetics & Toiletries
Formulary: Face Care
Technavio
reports the face care market will register a modest CAGR of 4% between 2016 and 2020. However, multifunctional solutions, especially in color cosmetic formats, will raise the stakes in the game. As such, here we present our latest face care formulas for your consideration and adaption; perhaps to up the ante.
Rheology/Thickener
Successfully Formulating at the Skin’s Natural Surface pH
Formulating high-performance skin care systems at low pH levels (4.0 to 5.5) can be beneficial for consumers and formulators in many ways, according to Florence Pecquerie, applications scientist and formulator for Lubrizol. Here, she reviews the current knowledge on skin surface pH, discusses the importance of pH on the efficacy of organic acid preservatives in formulation and introduces a new crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer.
Consumers/Market
8 Trends in Beauty Searches: Kiko Cosmetics, Mascara Innovation, Hair Peptide Serum, Matcha Perfume and More
C&T's Consumer Pulse report on the socials uncovers emerging searches and hashtags related to cosmetics. Here, we expand on those themes. This edition includes: Kiko Cosmetics, mascara innovation, hair peptide serum, matcha and watermelon perfumes, etc.
Literature/Data
Next in Skin: The Face as a Portal to Systemic Health and Aging Interventions
The face does not merely reflect biological age, it functions as a dynamic monitor of internal health and may serve as a portal to influence aging processes themselves. Recent evidence of such is presented here.
Actives
Problem-solving Beauty Ingredients
From dandruff-causing yeast to clean beauty preservation to summer hair stressors, new ingredients resolve challenges for consumers and formulators.
Actives
Herbivore Botanicals Revamps Its Bakuchiol Serum for an Evolving Millennial Consumer
"We are always on a mission to uplevel our formulas and introduce new powerful plant-based actives."
Color Cosmetics
Beyond Hybrids: the New Era of Skin-Care-First Makeup
Methods/Tools
Into the Blue: Novel Test Reveals Blue Light Damage, Protection Strategies
The negative effects of visible or blue light on skin are not fully understood. This article describes a model to test for potential damage and screen for compounds to suppress it. Results confirm blue light induces cutaneous damage, and a 3-D strategy of UV filters, vitamins and plant extracts suppresses it.
Actives
Antibacterial and Anti-inflammatory Effects of a Magnolia Extract
P. acnes can exacerbate acne as a result of the inflammatory properties of the cell wall short chain fatty acids and chemotactic factors. Here, researchers investigate the effectiveness of a magnolia extract as an acne treatment, based on the known anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects from magnolol and honokiol within the material.
Actives
Can the ‘Treatment in a Bottle’ Movement Revive Skin Care Innovation?
From needle-free fillers to microneedling-inspired serums, innovative products promise to transform the way shoppers approach facial skin care.
Actives
Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skin
Bakuchiol, a meroterpene of plant origin, is shown here to act against four major pathophysiologic features that cause acne, suggesting its use to complement and/or enhance the effectiveness of current anti-acne agents. In addition, the material is non-irritating, presents no photo- or hydrolytic- stability issues and is easy to use.
Natural/Sustainable
Consumer Perspective—Skin Care From Nature
In Europe, the natural and organic cosmetics market has grown despite the economic downturn. Consumers are increasingly concerned about skin care ingredients they see as posing potential health risks, due in large part to media hype. This has led many to look for natural ingredients on product labels.
Event Coverage
Future of Green and Niche Markets Explored at MWSCC Technical Symposium
Over 110 attendees flocked to the Belvedere Events & Banquets in Elk Grove Village, Ill., USA, to attend the Midwest chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemist's (MWSCC) Fall Technical Symposium on Oct. 10, 2013.
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