Patent Picks—Sugar Sunscreen, UV Microcapsules, ‘Rugby Ball’ Particles and More

Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features technologies related to sun care and UV protection, as well as reversing the effects of UV damage.

Use of compounds resulting from a sugar polyol or from a dehydrogenated sugar polyol derivative as a UV-screening agent; anti-sun compositions containing the same; and novel compounds
WIPO Patent Application WO/2012/010554
Publication date: Jan. 26, 2012
Assignee: L'Oréal, R Hervé and E Dimotakis

This invention relates to the cosmetic use of compounds resulting from a sugar polyol or from a dehydrogenated sugar polyol derivative as an agent for screening out UV radiation.The object of this patent was to find novel UV-screening agents that can be applied to the surface of the skin and/or hair that are more stable than standard UV-screening agents, with respect to factors during use such as water, washing, bathing, swimming, sand, perspiration, sebum and rubbing; that have a good solubility in the anti-sun formulation; and that are environmentally safe. The novel compounds disclosed resulting from a sugar polyol or from a dehydrogenated sugar polyol derivative achieve this objective.

Microcapsules with UV filter activity and process for producing them
US Patent Application 20120022265
Publication date: Jan. 26, 2012
Inventor: K Berg-Schultz

Described by this patent are microcapsules and a process for producing microcapsules with UV filter activity. Said microcapsules contain at least one type of crosslinkable chromophore with UV-A and/or UV-B and/or UV-C filter activity, and optionally at least one type of crosslinkable monomer that does not have UV activity, that are subjected to a crosslinking reaction in the absence of non-crosslinkable chromophores with UV filter activity.

Liquid composition containing fusiform “rugby ball” particles for cosmetic use
US Patent Application 20120021030
Publication date: Jan. 26, 2012
Inventors: S Matsufuji and M Kawamoto

In view of the fact that cosmetic products require improved moisturizing capabilities with good transparency as well as a less powdery appearance, the inventors of the present invention tested numerous ingredients to be included in a liquid foundation and discovered that fusiform particles can provide liquid foundations with these desired features. Thus, this invention relates to a liquid composition, in particular a liquid foundation, for cosmetic use that contains particles having a non (hemi)spherical, fusiform shape, also referred to as a “rugby ball” shape in the patent. The liquid composition may be applied in foundations, makeup, skin care and sun care, in particular in the form of an aqueous solution, a lotion, an oil gel, an o/w or w/o simple emulsion, or a multiple emulsion. Said composition contains 5% w/w to 50% w/w of fusiform particles in a cosmetically acceptable medium, the particles being made of an organosilicone having a crosslinked polysiloxane structure.

Antioxidant compounds for antiaging, stability
US Patent 8106233
Publication date: Jan. 31, 2012
Assignee: Merck Patent GmbH

The skin has the ability to scavenge free radicals generated by external or internal stress factors but this ability diminishes with age, causing skin aging. However, according to these inventors, this can be countered by antioxidants. In addition, certain actives used in cosmetics are unstable and can cause formulating issues but a known way of addressing these issues is by adding antioxidants to the compositions. The present invention therefore relates to the use of compounds with radicals defined as antioxidants and to the corresponding processes for the preparation of these compounds. The object of this invention was to provide a composition that protects against UV rays and/or exerts a protective action against oxidative stress on body cells and/or counters skin aging.

Nongreasy, film-forming cosmetic composition with UV benefits
WIPO Patent Application WO/2012/012497
Publication date: Jan. 26, 2012
Assignee: The Procter & Gamble Company, EL Hodgson, RB Crook and NM Simpson

According to this patent, there is a need to provide a film-forming cosmetic composition such as a foundation/makeup with UV benefits that also provides a desirable feel—e.g., that lacks greasiness, tackiness or stickiness. In addition, the compositiong should be smooth and dry and exhibit suitable adherence to the skin. Furthermore, the film-forming foundation should provide even coverage, be blendable and not appear "heavy" when applied to skin, should not be undesirably affected by skin secretions or water, and should not bleed, crack, smudge, abrade, flake or peel with wear.

Accordingly, the current invention discloses a film-forming cosmetic composition that provides superior feel, look and wear characteristics while also delivering UV protection to the skin. The composition comprises a dispersed aqueous phase that includes from 0.5% to 10% of a water- dispersible or water-soluble, film-forming polymer that adheres to skin, and 0.1% to 16.0% of a sunscreen active. The cosmetic composition further comprises one or more particles and a continuous oil phase that includes from 1% to 80% of an oil. The composition reportedly exhibits substantially no perceived tackiness for up to 2 min after application to the skin, UV protection and excellent wear and appearance benefits after application.

Compositions and methods for inhibiting PAR2 activation of keratinocytes
WIPO Patent Application WO/2012/011908
Publication date: Jan. 26, 2012
Assignee: The Procter & Gamble Company, CL Swanson, T Hakozaki and LT Laughlin II

As this patent describes, one mechanism in the melanin production cycle is the transfer of melanosomes from the melanocytes to the keratinocytes by way of phagocytosis, and research has found that the protease-activated receptor 2 (PAR-2) expressed on keratinocytes is involved in this melanosome transfer—and therefore may regulate pigmentation. Thus, a composition was developed for inhibiting PAR2 activation of keratinocytes comprising a vitamin B3 compound, an N-acyl amino acid compound, and a Laminaria saccharina extract. Specifically, in one embodiment, the composition for inhibiting PAR2 activation of keratinocytes comprises niacinamide, N-undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine, and a Laminaria saccharina extract.

Laminaria saccharina extract and vitamin B3 as whitening agents
WIPO Patent Application WO/2012/011907
Publication date: Jan. 26, 2012
Assignee: The Procter & Gamble Company, CL Swanson, T Hazozaki and LT Laughlin II

This invention describes a composition and method of improving the appearance of hyperpigmented spots and skin tone that consists of applying a safe and effective amount of a Laminaria saccharina extract to a hyperpigmented spot for a period of time sufficient to improve the appearance of the spot; and of applying a vitamin B3 skin tone agent to the skin surface for a period of time sufficient to improve skin tone.

Legume/vegetable compositions and methods for treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
US Patent 8106094
Publication date: Jan. 31, 2012
Assignee: Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies Inc.

This invention relates to methods and compositions for treating and ameliorating skin conditions including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). More particularly, this invention relates to compositions containing certain natural extracts, salicylic acid and natural or synthetic retinoids. Various approaches to treating acne, photodamage and other skin conditions have been attempted, including treatment with vitamin A acid, i.e., tretinoin, and natural retinoids or retinoid precursors such as vitamin A alcohol, i.e., retinol. However, according to the inventors, topical treatment with retinoids can be irritating to the skin. In addition, oral treatment with retinoids has been found to have teratogenic effects. Thus, it would be desirable to find a topical treatment for acne and PIH.

In accordance with this patent, the inventors developed compositions and methods for treating and ameliorating acne and PIH that contain salicylic acid, nondenatured plant extracts—preferably legume products and more preferably, soy products in fluid or solid form—and at least one natural or synthetic retinoid or retinol compound. The novel compositions were clinically proven to reduce PIH.

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