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Leveling Up: Passion Fruit Drives Color Cosmetics Into New Dimensions

Passion fruit seed extract is shown to exhibit antioxidant, skin whitening and sun protection capabilities in color cosmetics. This novel, natural and sustainable source for cosmetic actives demonstrates a near totality of claims for formulators and marketers.

Great Un-expectations

Taking unexpected turns leads us down new paths of discovery, which is especially relevant to science and certainly applicable to personal care product development.

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Stick to It: Makeup’s Growth Agenda for 2025-2026

Convenience and skin-loving ingredients define many of makeup's top-performing categories.

In Sight: Blush Just Got Smarter

Blush has evolved to a more sophisticated use of color that involves pigment, chemistry and now biology. New to the market are blushes that use the skin’s chemistry to help the products achieve a natural flush.

Substantiating Claims for a Tanning Magnifier

Tanning magnifiers, known in the United States as tanning accelerators, enhance the substrate or the production of melanin. One example is an innovative N-acyl derivative from L-tyrosine. This article describes a way to evaluate its pigmentation efficacy after UV irradiation. Also discussed is the regulatory status of tanning magnifiers.

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Editor's Note: Discontinuity and Your Inner Innovator

One innovative mash-up has been capturing consumer dollars: multifunctional color cosmetics. Whether fortified with SPF or moisturizing properties, makeup with added benefits is driving color sales. In relation, this month, we've created our own color and sun mash-up.

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Supplier Roundtable: Proxy Formulating—Using Alternative Ingredients

In this Supplier Roundtable, suppliers were challenged with the question of how to utilize "proxy" ingredients to keep up with market trends and on top of ingredient controversy.

Air pollution induces oxidative stress that can cause skin damage. Keratin powder from wool can bind and neutralize pollutant species. This material was utilized to create a color pigment and tested, as described here, in vitro and ex vivo for its NO2-abs

Wool Powder and Pigments for Pollution Protection—A Proposal

Air pollution induces oxidative stress that can cause skin damage. Keratin powder from wool can bind and neutralize pollutant species. This material was utilized to create a color pigment and tested, as described here, in vitro and ex vivo for its NO2-abs

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Read the Label Online: Atopalm BB Cream

BB creams continue to proliferate in the cosmetics market, and Atopalm BB Cream is another example of this. This column will review the ingredient listing for functionality and claims support.

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Read the Label Online: Urban Decay Naked Skin

Urban Decay promises that its Naked Skin foundation allows the consumer to feel like they are not wearing makeup. This column, written by Susan Raffy, reviews the ingredient listing for claims substantiation and functionality.

Givaudan Active Beauty's Illuminyl 388 is an augmented green tea polyphenol (EGCG; epigallocatechin gallate) prebiotic skin brightening active with universal efficacy against skin pigmentation for all skin types.

Skin Pigmentation 2.0: May 2024 Beauty Trend Tracker

With hyperpigmentation concerns on the rise, ingredient suppliers have launched technologies to address issues related to acne, psoriasis and more.

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Read the Label: Erborian BB Crème Au Ginseng SPF 20

Erborian's BB Crème Au Ginseng product claims to transform the skin with a velvety, ultra-soft, spotless finish. In this product review, Katerina Steventon, Ph.D., looks to the label to see if the ingredients align with these claims.

Patent Picks—New Rodlike C.I. Pigment, Broad-spectrum Preservative; Sensory Activators and More

Chosen biweekly by Rachel Grabenhofer, editor of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features a mix of recent patents and patent applications related to color, sensory, hair, skin, delivery and antimicrobial technologies.

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Formulating Forum: Anti-Stress and Well-Aging Cosmetics

The well-aging trend is reshaping beauty, emphasizing the need to care for and maintain vitality, appearance and overall health at any age. Effective anti-stress and well-aging cosmetics are fundamental to supporting this wave; examples are provided here.

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Expert Opinions on Skin Radiance and Luminosity: Even Tone, Pro-longevity, Retinol Alternatives, Cell Renewal and More

Skin glow and radiance products are experiencing significant growth, driven by demand for luminous, healthy-looking skin. Here, we share expert insights and examine trends, formulating strategies, emerging innovations shaping this projected $714 m sector.

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In 2026, Sustainability is a Performance Engine in Next-Gen Formulation Design

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The Innovations Tackling the SPF Confidence Gap

While overall makeup growth is slow, several key segments are growing—notably lip and cheek products, setting sprays, and other select categories.

7 Top Makeup Growth Sectors for 2025

A close read of recent consumer data reveals areas of opportunity to tap growth in the color cosmetic sector.