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Type: Article
Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Actives
Actives
Targeting The Cutaneous Nervous Network
A synthetic agent with neurotrophic and antioxidant properties has been designed to protect the skin’s sensory neurons from environmental stress and neurodegenerescence, preserving certain physiological responses controlled by the central nervous system.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Gel Network Fundamentals at
C&T Summit
Gel networks are at the base of many modern skin care products and hair conditioners, and their formulation is fairly straightforward. During the
Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit
, George Deckner and Anthony J. O'Lenick, Jr., will present, in hands-on formulation workshops, the practical aspects of gel network-based o/w emulsions for skin and hair care.
Actives
Formulating on Trend: Dandruff Control
In this installment of "Formulating on Trend," the author briefly outlines the causes of dandruff and describes actives to address this condition; including propanediol caprylate, climbazole, perlite and more.
Actives
Lysine Polypeptides for Dandruff Treatment
Dandruff remains a significant yet poorly served chronic scalp disorder for which more effective treatments are required. Here, lysine polypeptides are demonstrated in vitro and in vivo to effectively address the causative organism in dandruff,
Malassezia spp.
, and provide a potential basis for new treatments to counteract this condition.
Hair Care
Formulating Shampoo: Strategies, Dandruff and Ingredients
This column reviews basic shampoo formulation strategies then looks to dandruff mechanisms and the ingredients and strategies used to address it, including new concepts on the horizon for future product development.
Actives
Anti-dandruff Efficacy of Sodium Shale Oil Sulfonate Versus Coal Tar
Coal tar is an effective antidandruff active, but it contains compounds that are proven carcinogens. In this article sodium shale oil sulfonate is shown in preliminary results for the first time to have antidandruff efficacy equivalent to that of coal tar with none of coal tar’s toxic potential.
Actives
Under-eye Circles, Dryness, Dandruff and More Targeted by New Actives
Active ingredients to treat under-eye circles, body odor, skin dryness and dandruff, as well as 'green' skin care butters, are among several new offerings from Greentech.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Edelweiss to Stop Graying, Mineral Anti-dandruff, Hold + Conditioning and More in Hair Care
Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions related to hair care and styling, including edelweiss to stop hair graying and even restore hair color; minerals to address dandruff; phenolic compound blends for hair shine and protection; block polymers to increase foam in hair products; inventions that combine hair styling and care; and more.
Sun Protection
Testing SPF 15–100, Indoor vs. Outdoor
Lab tests on sunscreens show it takes more energy to produce mild erythema on protected skin than unprotected skin. Yet the FDA questions the need for SPFs higher than 50. In response, two outdoor studies were conducted using commercial products to challenge standing premises and determine if there is a measurable difference in an SPF 100 and SPFs of 50 or less.
Sun Protection
Testing SPF 15–100, Indoor vs. Outdoor
Lab tests on sunscreens show it takes more energy to produce mild erythema on protected skin than unprotected skin. Yet the FDA questions the need for SPFs higher than 50. In response, two outdoor studies were conducted using commercial products to challenge standing premises and determine if there is a measurable difference in an SPF 100 and SPFs of 50 or less.
Actives
Compass: The Shape of Words to Come
This issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine focuses on treatments incorporating such actives in preventive skin care, antiaging treatments, and anticellulite and spa treatments.
Sensory
Comfortable Cosmetics
This issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine is all about making skin comfortable and improving skin feel. With respect to making sunburned skin more comfortable, the issue features an article by KM Hanson et al. on the antioxidants vitamin E and diethylhexylsyringlidene malonate in sunscreens for the prevention of UV-induced ROS.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Compass—Taking Action
There sure is a lot of activity around actives—from regulatory scrutiny over functional product claims, to ingredient research, development, optimization and efficacy testing.
Sensory
Compass—Tulip Appeal
Whenever a given scent was first introduced, that’s how far back in our memories it can take us. This is something to bear in mind, especially as consumers try a product for the first time.
Sun Care
Compass: Sun Exposé
From preserving youth to expanding the limits of the color palette, this issue of C&T magazine serves as your guide to answering formulating conundrums.
Skin Care
Compass—Best Foot Forward
From an insider’s view, safety testing is an assumed step in the development of any product on the market. This puts the pressure on analytical and quality control efforts behind the scenes to ensure that ingredients and products meet or exceed expectations. In doing so, theoretically, no one else has to give it a second thought. For those who must give it considerable thought, this edition features two articles on testing, among other topics.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking—Entanglement vs. Overlap
This edition of "Comparatively Speaking" describes the difference between the critical molecular weight of entanglement and critical concentration of overlap. These concepts are important for formulators to grasp since they deal with altering the physical properties of a finished product.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Comparatively Speaking: HLB vs. SLB
Efficiently formulating products using alkyl dimethicone polymers requires knowing their composition, solubility in the oil phase chosen, and a metric to understand which values are necessary for that particular oil phase. SLB is a starting point for such determinations.
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