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Section: Research

Sunscreens and Other Products

Takagi et al report on the barrier reinforcing function of synthetic compounds called quasi-ceramides.

Smoking and Premature Aging

Multiple environmental factors are associated with facial aging; evidence suggests that smoking 20 cigarettes per day is equivalent in effect to almost 10 years of chronological aging. Therefore, lifestyle recommendations to stop or delay facial skin aging are also very useful in promoting public health.

Patent Picks—Methyl Naphthalenyl Ketone, Oxylipins, Metal Oxide Shell Microcapsules, Tsuga, Furanone and More for the Treatment of Skin Inflammation and Irritation

Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition, chosen by Katie Anderson (Schaefer), associate editor of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, features patents related to the treatment of inflamed or irritated skin.

Rosacea: Cause, Triggers and Treatment

Rosacea is a common disorder of the facial skin that affects an estimated 14 million Americans. In fact, rosacea is becoming increasingly widespread as the baby boomer generation enters the most susceptible ages for its development.

Odor Reception: Structure and Mechanism

Olfaction is a multi-step process involving the odorant molecule, the odor receptor protein, the pockets for odorant ligand docking, and the odor patterns formed by the glumeruli and decoded by the brain.

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Editor's Note: Health and 'Swell'ness

The consumer driver for health and wellness will no doubt flow into the New Year and beyond. As such, this issue takes inspiration from the spa world.

Cationic Peptides and Cell Penetration

Controversy surrounds how certain cationic peptides enter the cell.

Peptides Straddle Sun and Skin

Multifunctional ingredients such as melanin-activing peptides (MAPs) are stretching across categories like skin and sun care to offer more to consumers, making these product offerings more attractive.

Specialty Pigments: Properties and Effects

Specialty pigments bring unique effects to personal care products, thus they are an important class of color additives for the decorative cosmetic industry. Presented here is a review of their properties and benefits, including mechanisms of refraction and reflection, as well as regulatory considerations.

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Cosmetics, Ketchup and Formula Simplicity

"I like it that ketchup still tastes the same to me as it did when [I was a child]. ... I feel reassured that many unnecessary ingredients have not been added. As a cosmetic scientist, while I appreciate when new ingredients improve products, I would feel better if we crafted them without unnecessary additions."

Wrinkle Profilometry and Other Topics

Evaluating the maturity of cornified envelopes: Hirao has published a review on the significance of cornified envelopes in barrier function of the stratum corneum. Cornified envelopes (CE), which are rigid and insoluble structures surrounding the corneocytes, are assembled by crosslinking of several precursor proteins by transglutaminases. The CE provide the basis for barrier function of the stratum corneum.

Polypodium leucotomos and Other Topics

Polypodium leucotomos extract to decrease UV-induced damage: Exposure of human skin to sunlight containing UVA and UVB radiation exposes the skin to deleterious effects such as sunburn, immune suppression, pigmentary changes, photoaging and skin cancer. The mechanism of such cutaneous damage induction is complex, but can be broadly divided into direct oxygen-dependent damage through absorption of photons, and oxidative damage caused by formation of free radicals and reactive oxygen species. This is why antioxidants have been increasingly studied as inhibitors or quenchers of UV-induced cutaneous damage.

Cigarette Smoking and Skin Biomarkers

Some research has been documented as to the damaging effects of smoking on the skin vasculature and on oxygenation in both human and animal models.

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Linking Sensory and Rheology Characteristics

The authors introduce a method to use rheological properties (such as dynamic viscosity and yield stress) to describe and predict skin sensory attributes (such as cohesiveness) of cosmetic products. This is a first step in learning to use emulsion structure to predict sensory attributes.

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Gattefossé and Ambiotis Uncover Inflamm'aging Insights

Inflammation is a natural defense but when left unresolved, it can negatively impact the skin and contribute to aging. Gattefossé and Ambiotis teamed up to explore these mechanisms.

Sustainable Ingredients and Innovation in Cosmetics

Demands for innovation and nature in personal care products have, until now, experienced parallel growth according to consumer perception; i.e., the need for efficacy and the need for purity. Considering these diverse views, this article explores how it is possible to create products that satisfy both via sustainability; bringing natural sourcing to ingredients that are innovative and scientifically proven.

Silicone Safety and the Cosmetic Industry

The use of silicones in personal care products continues to expand because of the unique performance attributes they provide and their well-established record of safety. As a result, progressively larger volumes of silicones are being released to the environment, and interest in their life cycle has increased. The present article summarizes relevant fundamental chemical and physical properties of silicones and how these relate to material performance, safety and environmental fate.

Dihydroxyacetone-Induced Pigmentation and Other Topics

Dihydroxyacetone-induced pigmentation: Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a three-carbon sugar, is the browning ingredient in commercial sunless tanning formulations.

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