V. filiformis for Antiaging, Rice Protein for Skin Pigmentation: Literature Findings

Skin and Skin Care

Limiting wrinkles: L’Oréal discloses a cosmetic process to limit facial wrinkles due to aging.¹ This process uses a composition containing an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis or other filamentous bacterium that contains no spores and is not photosynthetic. The composition may be applied on the skin of the face and neck. An extract of V. filiformis was prepared and its efficacy on lipogenesis and adipocyte differentiation was shown. Formulation of a cream containing 0.05% of the extract is disclosed.

Trienzyme activity for skin conditioning: Elemis Ltd. has been granted a patent on skin care compositions comprising a trienzyme combination of thiol protease and two serine proteases.² An example cosmetic composition contains a suitable carrier and at least all of the following: one thiol protease, a serine protease derived from Aspergillus melleus, and a second serine protease. The thiol protease may be selected from papain, ficin, bromelain and actinidin. The first serine protease is derived from proteinase. The second serine protease is selected from the group consisting of subtilisin, trypsin and chymotrypsin. The synergistic combination of these three proteolytic enzyme activities—the trienzyme activity—in the compositions of the invention facilitates improved cosmetic epidermal conditioning and resurfacing. Methods to use the compositions and methods of reconstituting the desired trienzyme activity in situ are also provided. 

Oily cleansing product: Noevir Co. discloses oily cosmetics containing nonionic surfactants.³ The oily cosmetics contain polyglycerin fatty acid ester-type nonionic surfactants, polyoxyethylene glyceryl fatty acid ester-type nonionic surfactants, and polyoxyethylene fatty acid glyceryl-type nonionic surfactants. 

An example of an oily cleansing product is shown in Formula 1. The product is an effective skin cleanser, exhibits no skin irritation and does not support growth of Propionibacterium acnes.

Neutralizing after chemical peels: Lintec Co. discloses a skin-neutralizing sheet that can be applied to the skin as a way to eliminate residual acidity on the skin after a chemical peeling treatment. The neutralizing sheet contains 20–70 g/m² sodium bicarbonate and an adhesive in a neutralizing layer. For example: 17.65 g sodium bicarbonate was dispersed in 12.6 g ethyl acetate and combined with 0.5 g butyl acrylate-2-ethylhexyl acrylate-2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer in 40.8% of an ethyl acetate/toluene solution and 0.5 g of an isocyanate-based cross-linking agent to make a coating solution. The coating solution was applied on a polyethylene peeling film, and a polyester nonwoven fabric was layered thereon to obtain a neutralizing sheet. 

Skin Pigmentation

Rice protein hydrolysate as pigmenting agent: Laboratoires Expanscience discloses the use of a rice protein hydrolysate as an agent for pigmenting the skin.⁵ According to this concept, it is possible, without sunlight, to intensify the normal pigmentation of the skin. 

One preferred application of this agent is for repigmenting white patches of the skin, particularly when they are a consequence of pityriasis or due to the use of dermocorticoids. Other preferred applications are for accelerating and intensifying the tanning process, and preventing skin photocarcinogenesis. 

Advantageously, the rice protein hydrolyzate comprises peptides of which at least 50% have a molecular mass in the range of between 300 and 3,500 Da. Rice peptides were prepared by enzymic hydrolysis of rice protein and their effects on tyrosinase in human melanocyte culture were studied. The peptides at a concentration of 5 mg/mL increased the tyrosinase activity by 172%. A formulation of a cream containing the rice peptide also is disclosed. 

Hair and Hair Care

Conditioning shampoos: Kanebo discloses conditioning shampoos and skin-cleansing compositions containing cationic polymers, inorganic salts and surfactants.⁶ These compositions contain the triethanolamine salt of N-acylsarcosine, the triethanolamine salt of polyoxyethylene lauryl ether sulfate, polyoxypropylene fatty acid isopropanolamides, cationic polymers, water-soluble inorganic salts and amphoteric surfactants. An example is shown in Formula 2. 

Antidandruff shampoo: A recent Henkel patent describes an antidandruff shampoo containing hydrogenated castor oil as stabilizing agent.⁷ The patent also describes surfactant-containing cleansing compositions that comprise hydrogenated castor oil for stabilizing an antidandruff component that is insoluble in the cleansing composition, enabling thorough and gentle cleansing of skin or hair with a simultaneous antidandruff effect. Another result is a stable dispersion of the antidandruff component without the occurrence of phase separation, changes in the viscosity or reduction in the foaming ability during storage. It also was shown to be possible to enhance the stability of the antidandruff component in the cleansing compositions through the use of gel formers. An example of an antidandruff shampoo is shown in Formula 3.

Hair waving and straightening: Wella Aktiengesellschaft discloses hair waving and straightening compositions containing N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide and penetration enhancers and cationic polymers.⁸ Disclosed is a hair-shaping composition containing 0.5–35% of N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide, 0.1–30% of at least one hair swelling and penetration enhancing substance and 5–95% of water, where all percentages are by weight. Also disclosed is a method of permanently shaping hair using the composition described. 

For example, a hair perm contained N-(3′-hydroxypropyl)-2-mercaptoacetamide, ammonia, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-11, 1,2-propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol monopropyl ether, diglycerin polyoxypropylene, urea, PEG-35 castor oil, and coceth-10. The fixing composition contained hydrogen peroxide, salicylic acid, disodium hydrogen phosphate, phosphoric acid and a vinylpyrrolidone-styrene copolymer. 

Isethionic acid and polyalkylene glycol for hair styling: Lion Corp. received a patent on hair-styling compositions containing isethionic acid, polyalkylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 280-2000, and optionally a film-forming polymer.⁹ The invention relates to a hair-styling composition that prevents unruly or frizzy hair under a high-moisture condition without causing stickiness. An example is shown in Formula 4. 

Makeup

Lipstick: In a recently issued international patent, Beiersdorf discloses lipsticks and other cosmetic sticks.¹⁰ The sticks contain 9–15% w/w of a combination of one or more natural waxes, microcrystalline waxes and synthetic waxes. The sticks also contain multiple oils and one or more lipids with a melting point of 30–40°C. A lipstick example is shown in Formula 5.

Stable mascara emulsions: L’Oréal discloses stable mascara emulsions comprising a thermogelling polymer.¹¹ These emulsions are intended for use in cosmetic compositions to be applied to keratin fibers and more particularly the eyelashes and eyebrows. The thermogelling polymer makes it possible to obtain stable emulsions in consistencies suitable for making up keratin fibers. The composition may be in a solid, semisolid or liquid form. A method of applying the compositions is described. In the example shown in Formula 6, the oil phase was heated to 98°C, then the aqueous phase (thermogelling polymer, hydroxyethylcellulose and water) was heated to 93°C before being added to the oil phase with stirring. 

Hollow monodisperse particles for makeup: L’Oréal describes the use of hollow monodisperse particles in makeup compositions for keratinous substrates, in particular the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and hair.¹² The invention calls for the dispersal of the insoluble hollow monodisperse particles in the aqueous phase of a physiologically acceptable medium. The arrangement of these dispersed particles in the aqueous phase results in diffraction of light and development of a color.

The hollow monodisperse particles comprise an inorganic or organic compound, for example, a polymer selected from polystyrene, poly(methyl methacrylate), polyacrylamide, and mixtures and derivatives thereof. Thus, a cosmetic base coat composition containing 80% of a polyacrylate/ammonium acrylate aqueous mixture^a, 10% of a jet black pigment dispersion^b and 10% water, was first applied. That application was followed by a composition containing 80% water and 20% of the hollow monodisperse particles of polystyrene and cross-linked poly(methyl methacrylate) with an external diameter of 290 nm and internal diameter of 200 nm, resulting in a very brilliant red color after drying.

Interesting New Vehicles and  Compositions

Diesters and polymethacrylates in cosmetic emulsions: Pola Chemical Industries discloses cosmetic emulsions comprising diesters and polymethacrylates.¹³ For example, o/w emulsified skin cleansers contain diesters of dimer acids and/or dimer diols. They also contain copolymers of glucosylethyl methacrylate, methacryloyl-l-lysine and/or methacryoyloxyethylphosphorylcholine. The emulsions remain stable after storage at a high temperature. An example is shown in Formula 7.

Facial masks to deliver treatment: The Procter & Gamble Co. discloses treatment articles capable of delivering intensive care and overall treatment simultaneously.¹⁴ The articles are comprised of a first substrate, a second substrate that covers the first substrate during use, a first treatment composition and a second treatment composition. The delivery of the skin care active to the skin is initiated by the first treatment composition. Preferred articles of this invention are facial treatment masks. In one example from the patent, a commercial substrate^c was cut and shaped for use as a mask, then soaked with 30 g of the liquid composition shown in Formula 8.

Folic acid and polyols: Beiersdorf discloses new cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing folic acid and/or folic acid derivatives and one or more polyols.¹⁵ An example is shown in Formula 9.

Emulsion with heat-induced gelling polymer: L’Oréal has obtained a patent for a cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an o/w or w/o/w emulsion consisting of at least one continuous aqueous phase, at least one heat-induced gelling polymer, at least one organic UV-screening agent, and at least one water-miscible volatile solvent in a concentration ranging from 1–20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.¹⁶ The compositions are formulated so as to reduce or eliminate migration of the composition outside the application area while retaining cosmetic pleasantness and the comfort of use. More particularly, they aim at improving the spreading, improving the ocular comfort and reducing the running of the composition on keratin materials. An example is shown in Formula 10.

Interesting Raw Materials

Di-PPG-2 myreth-10 adipate: In many personal and home care products, surfactants that serve as cleansing agents sometimes remove too much oil from the skin, leaving it vulnerable to irritation, itchiness and dryness, according to Chen et al.¹⁷ These authors indicate that the use of di-PPG-2 myreth-10 adipate can solve the problem encountered with surfactants. Di-PPG-2 myreth-10 adipate provides emollience to the skin, helping to add back what surfactants tend to strip away. It also significantly lessens the surfactant irritation, making this an ideal ingredient for baby products and sensitive skin products in both personal and home care. 

Four subjects were used in a clinical study to demonstrate the benefit of di-PPG-2 myreth-10 adipate. Six test sites were chosen on the subjects. According to the results obtained by chromameter and a scanning laser Doppler imager on the test area, di-PPG-2 myreth-10 adipate decreases irritation, helps to maintain foam height and can ameliorate a product’s tacky feel when the product is poured from the bottle. Several studies also demonstrated similar results on hands and hair in personal and home applications. Thus, the use of di-PPG-2 myreth-10 adipate in surfactant-based formulations may significantly lessen the possibility of irritation without harmful impact on cleansing performance. 

References

1. FR 2,903,018, Cosmetic process to limit the wrinkles of the face due to aging, L’Oréal, France (Jan 4, 2008)

2. GB 2,440,117, Skin care compositions comprising trienzyme combination of thiol protease and two serine proteases, Elemis Ltd, UK (Jan 23, 2008)

3. JP 2008 13,504, Oily cosmetics containing nonionic surfactants, Noevir Co, Ltd, Japan (Jan 24, 2008)

4. JP 2008 13,457, Skin neutralizing sheet for chemical peeling treatment, Lintec Co, Ltd, Japan (Jan 24, 2008)

5. WO 2008 9,709, Use of a rice protein hydrolysate as pigmenting active principle, Laboratoires Expanscience, France (Jan 24, 2008)

6. JP 2008 7,649, Conditioning shampoos and skin-cleansing compositions containing cationic polymers, inorganic salts, and surfactants, Kanebo Home Products Sales Co, Ltd, Japan (Jan 17, 2008)

7. WO 2008 6,412, Antidandruff shampoo containing hydrogenated castor oil as stabilizing agent, Henkel KGaA, Germany (Jan 17, 2008)

8. EP 1,880,710, Hair waving and straightening compositions containing N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide and penetration enhancers and cationic polymers, Wella Aktiengesellschaft, Germany (Jan 23, 2008)

9. JP 2008 13,490, Hair-styling compositions containing isethionic acid and polyalkylene glycol, Lion Corp, Japan (Jan 24, 2008)

10. WO 2008 9,562, Cosmetic sticks, especially lipsticks, Beiersdorf AG, Germany (Jan 24, 2008)

11. WO 2008 6,898, Mascara stable emulsions of suitable consistencies comprising a thermogelling polymer, L’Oréal, France (Jan 17, 2008)

12. WO 2008 7,267, Makeup compositions for keratinous substrates comprising hollow monodisperse particles, L’Oréal, France (Jan 17, 2008)

13. JP 2008 13,450, Cosmetic emulsions comprising diesters and polymethacrylates, Pola Chemical Industries, Inc, Japan (Jan 24, 2008)

14. US 2008 14,231, Treatment articles capable of delivering intensive care and overall treatment simultaneously, The Procter & Gamble Co., USA (Jan 17, 2008)

15. WO 2008 6,485, Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing folic acid and one or more polyols, Beiersdorf AG, Germany (Jan 17, 2008) 

16. WO 2008 6,687, Cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion comprising a heat-induced gelling polymer, a water-miscible volatile organic solvent and an organic UV-screening agent, L’Oréal, France (Jan 17, 2008)  

17. K Chen et al, Say ‘Ah...’ for relief from sensitive skin, Household & Personal Products Industry 44(12) 98–101 (2007)

18. WO 2008 9,907, Copolymers in hair styling applications, Croda International PLC, UK (Jan 24, 2008)