IFSCC 2023 took place from Sept. 5-7 in Barcelona, featuring 76 podium presentations and 373 posters chosen from 703 abstract submissions. This year's theme was: "Rethinking Beauty Science." Here are the top trends we saw among the podium presentations.
1. Microbiome
Engineering microbes to augment biology
-not just rebalancing but deeper biological insights
-aging of the microbiome, driven by the skin's environment
-communication/quorum sensing among entities
-microbiome for skin typing
-molecular output of microbes for targeted therapy (vitamins, antioxidants, etc.)
-microbiome as a sensor/indicator (temperature, ROS, TNF-α)
-species variation with perimenopause (higher Cutibacterium levels) and post-menopause (higher Streptococcus)
-holobiont aging
-microbiome to identify inhibitors
2. Massage, Wellness & Touch
-several posters described touch
-effect of moisturization on perceived touch
-holistic beauty: lymphatic and circulatory systems and their influence on epidermal stem cells
-importance of all five senses together - and the general untapped potential they hold
-greater opportunity for the interactions between all parts of human biology (nervous, circulatory, lymphatic, skeletal, etc.)
-remember that in mind-body-skin interactions, the mind is still the brain and part of the body (what do the senses tell the brain?)
3. Advanced Tech - Analytical and Digital Tools
-full tracks on analytical techniques
-in silico identification of peptides for fibroblast growth factor (new area to watch for future actives)
-the next step from augmented reality (AR) is mixed reality (MR) - example of projection makeup (color cosmetics projected onto the skin and synchronized with movement to try on looks faster and more effectively
-quantum computing to speed formulation optimization
-AI to research skin's proneness to skin conditions, acne, etc.
-how 3D printed facial mask geometry affects hydration of skin
-VR for holistic treatment; e.g., kit of candle, lotion and VR glasses sent to the consumer to integrate and create a paradise escape
-computational fluid dynamics to optimize scale up, reducing cost and time
-AI to map the organization of the stratum corneum in young vs. aged skin
-ex vivo sweat model
-advanced test skin model substrates
4. Sensory Experiences and Emotion
-musical interpretation of skin condition and its integration for wellness and emotion, anti-stress response; future potential for autism and dementia-cosmetics and beauty as therapy; beyond just beauty and moving into the health realm
-changes in body odor chemistry in response to emotions
-impact of massage on wellness, stress reduction
5. Delivery Systems
-taurine crystal microneedles
-tannic acid-mediated lipid nanovesicles
-quinoa starch encapsulation
-other vesicles
Holistic beauty: lymphatic and circulatory systems and their influence on epidermal stem cells
6. Biological Targets
-bigger overall pharma presence this year
-3NT synthesis in skin caused by UV/particulate matter exposure and its reduction to protect skin
-mechanisms of quorum sensing
-SIRTs in skin and cells
-keratinocyte-sebocyte crosstalk by exosomes - regulating these to decrease sebum in oily skin or increase sebum in dry skin
-engineering microbes to augment biology
-skin interactome (exposome, microbiome, genome) to address menopausal deficiencies in skin, improve immunity, address hyperpigmentation
-stem-cell derived exosomes for anti-sagging
-peptides for anti-cellulite
-phages
-a whole track featured senescence
7. Nature/Nature-inspired
-Antarctic photolyase for photoaging/skin cancer prevention
-eco-pigments
-natural low eutectic solvent extraction
-anti-stress Medicago sativa sprout
-crossing technology with nature
-reconnecting with nature - concern for the oceans and climate
8. Advances in Hair
-chemosensing in the hair follicle
-vegetal hair dyes/tannins
-anti-hair loss concepts
-stress in hair follicles
-scalp treatment/anti-hair loss treatment with ginsenoside metabolites
-hair follicle stem cells
-improving hair strength by lipid rich cell membrane complex
-measuring hair breakage in Afro-textured hair
-hair fiber characterization
9. Sustainability
-appeared in many tracks
-zero CO2
-microplastic replacement
-greener chemistry
-circular strategies
-biodegradable film former
10. Sunscreens
-sensory in sunscreens
-safe TiO2 nanoparticles
-mineral sunscreens
-dynamic homogenization of inorganic UV filters
