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Scientific discipline, formulating skill, resourcefulness and creativity — these and other hallmarks of innovation in cosmetics R&D are brought into the spotlight through the Cosmetics & Toiletries Allē Awards. In 2022, the awards debuted, honoring behind-the-scenes ingenuity in ingredients, formulas, test methods and digital technologies. Entries came from suppliers, manufacturers, test method/tool designers and tech developers alike and winners graced the stage of an exclusive awards dinner held in September in NYC.
See the February C&T 2023 digital edition for the full celebration.
"The C&T Allē Awards is both a celebration of the best and motivation for future developments and innovations," wrote Hemali Gunt, Ph.D., head of clinical and scientific affairs at Burt's Bees.
"The C&T Allē Awards is both a celebration of the best and motivation for future developments and innovations," wrote Hemali Gunt, Ph.D., head of clinical and scientific affairs at Burt's Bees and one of the awards judges. "It was an inspiration to see scientists on a quest to bring the best possible ingredients, technologies and formulations to consumers, and at the center of each of these innovations was multifunctionality and sustainability – this is the future of beauty and skin care."
Kelly Dobos, consulting cosmetic chemist, adjunct professor at the University of Toledo and Allē Awards judge, added, "A great marketing campaign might get you that first sale, but it's the product performance and experience that brings you back to purchase again. ... "The top ingredient and formula technologies submitted to the Allē Awards demonstrated depth of technical expertise and substantiated efficacy along with sustainability metrics, safety and regulatory knowledge that are absolutely necessary today to meet the demands of the market."
John Jiménez, senior researcher of Belcorp and another esteemed judge, noted the C&T Allē Awards are positioned to recognize and reward innovations that will mark the future of cosmetic science – which must align with current and future trends. "Humanity is experiencing difficult situations, such as the new post-pandemic reality, ... the war in Ukraine, inflation and unemployment, among others," he wrote.
"This is reflected in the fact that consumers in all countries are presenting with ... depression, anxiety and stress. This new reality implies a great opportunity for the cosmetics industry, as there is a great need for innovations related to well-being ... that can help mitigate the effects of this stress on the quality of skin and hair. "As a juror, it caught my attention that several companies are innovating in this aspect, so well-being is presented as one of the main innovation drivers for the coming years."
Peter Tsolis, vice president of skin care R&D, the Estée Lauder Cos., and an Allē Awards judge, shared, "I think the big trends in awards submissions were multi-purpose and poly-tasking types of material positioning." He added that the sourcing and sustainability aspects of some of them were also very unique. "The ones that stood out certainly told a novel sourcing story."
"The top ingredient and formula technologies submitted to the Allē Awards demonstrated depth of technical expertise and substantiated efficacy along with sustainability metrics, safety and regulatory knowledge that are absolutely necessary today to meet the demands of the market," noted Kelly Dobos.
Jen Novakovich, founder of The Eco Well and an awards judge, observed, "The trends I saw in the C&T Allē Awards revealed a push for improved transparency, substantiation, and out-of-the-box thinking."
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D., associate professor of cosmetic science at Mae Fah Luang University and an Allē Awards judge, concurred. "Sustainability is still a focus," she wrote, underscoring how ingredients from the foods industry can be applicable for topical products. "For consumers, using something that is edible and good for health as an ingredient in [personal care] products is brilliant."
Les Smith, Ph.D., chief scientific and regulatory officer for La Perla Beauty and an awards judge, also shared market trends reflected in the C&T Allē Award submissions. "In recent years, consumers have begun to demand more transparency from manufacturers on both product ingredients and the testing methods used to achieve the benefits claimed by the products. "There is also a trend by formulators to target specific cosmetic problems encountered by the consumer. This suggests the development of niche products for specific skin and cosmetic conditions, as well as the inclusion of new ingredients in broad-based products to address a wider range of problem conditions," he concluded.
Continuing the C&T Allē Awards celebration, the February 2023 edition of C&T pays tribute to the winning innovations and the minds/teams behind them with congratulatory quotes and notes from some of their respective companies and brands. Please join us in acknowledging their success.
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