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Sensory, Eastern Formulating Trends and Ingredient Innovation at in-cosmetics Barcelona

Contact Author Katie Anderson
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Every spring, in-cosmetics in Europe draws attendees from around the world to learn about the latest in cosmetic ingredient and formulation technology, and 2015 was no different, with in-cosmetics 2015 in Barcelona seeing 8,578 visitors, 710 exhibitors and 105 new exhibitors. A few key trends stood out at this year’s show, including: capitalizing on the five senses, formulation trends from the East and natural and innovative actives.

Sensorial Formulating

A number of suppliers highlighted the close relationship between a product and the consumer’s five senses by creating formulations that showcased key sensorial characteristics. Lubrizol debuted Sweet Escape, a collection of six skin care formulations that bring together the sensorial benefits of a surprising texture, an appealing visual and an evocative fragrance, with the claimed performance of a high-tech active ingredient substantiated by science. For example, the Clear Sculpting Skin Massage Gelée is a clear, oil-like, gel formulation with smooth flow and cushiony playtime that soothes and sculpts skin.

During its press event, Clariant also connected to the senses to discuss its new GlucoTain line of surfactants; however, it focused on a sense not often highlighted in personal care—taste. The company utilized a mixologist to carefully craft cocktails that were representative of each of the line’s ingredients. For example, to represent Glucotain Clean, a refreshing, blue cocktail with light foam atop was devised that left a fresh taste on each of the attendees palettes. This was representative of the surfactant’s ability to provide a deep, yet mild cleanse with a creamy, fine foam and a pleasant, squeaky clean after feel.

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BASF discussed sensory perception at the event as part of “Sensory 2.0,” its ingredients and formulations that promote extraordinary sensory experiences. The company unveiled four multisensory categories—Fire & Ice, The Caring Touch, Sweet Senses and The Taste of Success—each having products that appeal to the six identified consumer archetypes (energetic, perfect, professional, protected, authentic and creative). For example, the Luxurious Legs Smoothing & Soothing Radiant Leg Lotion, as part of the Taste of Success formulation concept, delivered the needs of the “perfect” archetype by being highly effective; easy to apply; having a subtle illumination effect; and providing refreshed, sleek legs.

Seppic harnessed the senses by inventing formulations that combined two of the states of matter. The formulations created in the “States of Matter” portfolio utilize not only the company’s innovative actives but also its functional ingredients. For example, the Pop Rocks Energizing Mouse goes from a liquid to a gas state, making the skin tingle when sodium bicarbonate and citric acid meet. The formulation incorporates Sepimax Zen, Gulfstream Sea Water and Sepitonic M3, and a video of the transformation can be viewed on Cosmetics & Toiletries' Facebook page.

Korea, Turkey and the Middle East

For many years, the cosmetic industry has looked to Western countries for formulation inspiration, and Eastern-inspired formulation trends were mainly taken from China and Japan. However, it was evident at in-cosmetics 2015 in Barcelona that new countries are emerging as innovation hot zones. One such area is Korea, and although the star formulation concept to come out the country was BB creams, other formulation technologies from the area such as cushion compacts, jelly creams and face masks are rising in the ranks. In the “Rituals” area of the Innovation Zone that was dedicated to Asia Pacific, formulations such as the Metal Cushion Foundation EX SPF 50+ PA+++, the Vitalizer Whitening Sleeping Pack and the Once Finishing Cream SPF 30 PA++, all from South Korea, exemplified this formulation trend. In a marketing trends roundtable, Bulldog Skin Care co-founder Simon Duffy noted “Korea is a playground of emerging trends.”

As evidenced by this year’s Turkey and Middle East Market Focus, the two areas are emerging in the cosmetics industry. In an event press conference, Irina Barbarova of Euromonitor noted, “The Middle East is pretty steady despite the instability.” She added that prospective markets include China, Thailand, India, Saudi Arabia, Brazil, Mexico and Turkey. She emphasized that “face masks is the next place to be.” Although face masks have grown significantly in the United States, they see their biggest success in Asia, where China is a dominant contributor. Russia and Turkey are also big contributors to the category. She added that Asia concepts are expanding internationally, and that “reinvention is happening in beauty through personalization, digital, cross-category, Asianification, multi-benefit and multicultural.” According to Barbarova, India is going to be the next China, and Saudi Arabia and Indonesia are growing in personal care sales in fragrance and skin care, respectively.

Speaking specifically on regulatory requirements for Middle East countries, Dr. Yavuz Özoguz from m-haditec GmbH & Co. discussed the rules governing Halal certification for cosmetics. To be pure and therefore be certified Halal according the rules of Islam, a cosmetic product must not contain anything related to the 11 items that are designated impure, but only six of these relate to cosmetics. For example, because intoxicants are viewed impure, ethanol from fermentation cannot be formulated into a Halal cosmetic product, but synthetic alcohol can. In addition, any animal material such as animal fats used has to be from an animal slaughtered according to Islamic rules. Because pigs are considered impure, gelatin from pigs cannot be used in cosmetics and must be substituted with another material.

Ingredient Innovation

As the demand for more natural and eco-sustainable cosmetic actives increases, the industry has answered with a slew of new ingredient technologies that deliver an Earth loving message but with the efficacy to match. One such ingredient was Earth Supplied’ s new A+ Beads and A+ Gel, which combine seaweed and aloe to form beads that are completely pumpable and sprayable. These beads can be loaded with a variety of actives and colors to deliver efficacy in a natural and visually appealing way.

Lipotec sourced the sea to create its two new active launches, Eyedeline and Brighlette. The former targets bags, dark circles and wrinkles around the eye area, while the latter controls pigmentation for a brighter, more even toned skin. At the event, Indena launched Quercevita, a patented delivery form of quercetin for antioxidant skin protection.

Many of the ingredient innovations at the show were featured in the Innovation Zone, which was for the first time divided into active ingredient launches and functional ingredient launches. The Innovation Zone Awards, therefore, were divided into the two categories. During the event’s Awards Ceremony, Induchem received gold in the Active category for its Brightenyl product, a first generation active ingredient designed to be activated, upon application, by the skin microbiote. Dow Corning was awarded gold in the Functional category for 3901 Liquid Satin Blend, a fluid which creates a long-lasting feel of lubricity while delivering a stringy yet novel structure. The Green Ingredient Award, in association with Organic Monitor, was given to Laboratoires Expanscience for Aqualicia, a natural '3-in-1' active ingredient which entraps, distributes and limits water loss of the skin.

As 2015 was the event’s 25th anniversary, the 25 Years of Innovation Award was presented to Sederma, recognizing its Matrixyl ingredient as the ingredient which has had the greatest impact on the personal care ingredients industry over the past quarter century. The winners of the Beiersdorf Innovation Pitch were also announced with Azelis, Silab and Symrise, all given the opportunity to market their innovations with Beiersdorf. For a full list of winners, visit Cosmetics & Toiletries' Awards Ceremony write-up.

The event will return to Paris in 2016, taking place Apr. 12-14 once again at Porte de Versailles.

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