New Fragrance House 'Addition': Cosmetic Actives

July 1, 2016 | Contact Author | By: Allured Editors
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Keywords: actives | Symrise | Eder Ramos | Antonio Lara | IFF | Frédérique Lafosse | Givaudan | WPC | World Perfumery Congress

Abstract: How and why are fragrance houses "adding on" with cosmetic actives? Moderator Rachel Grabenhofer explored this concept in a panel discussion during the 2016 World Perfumery Congress in Miami Beach.

Why are fragrance houses tapping into the cosmetics market? What does this mean for the differentiation of innovations, and multifunctional offerings? What do these new capabilities signal about the future of both industries?

“Fragrance is about that immediate effect…it’s a matter of perception or emotion. ... Cosmetics are about performance. [Their] perception is about visible results over time and scientific proof.” -Frédérique Lafosse, head of active beauty at Givaudan

Rachel Grabenhofer, scientific acquisitions editor at Allured Business Media, and a panel of industry experts took these questions on during the 2016 World Perfumery Congress. Following are excerpts from the discussion.

Innovation, Emotion and Science

“The beauty and cosmetics industry is driven by innovation,” said Eder Leopoldo Ramos, global president of cosmetic ingredients at Symrise AG. “Fragrance encapsulates that same drive.” 

Antonio Lara, president and CEO at Lucas Meyer Cosmetics | International Flavors & Fragrances Inc., agreed that it only seems natural that the fragrance and cosmetic industries work together. “There would definitely be new opportunities generated over a period of time,” he added. 

While the two industries share a common goal of innovation, Frédérique Lafosse, head of active beauty at Givaudan, pointed out that they are still different. “Fragrance is about that immediate effect…it’s a matter of perception or emotion,” she said. “Cosmetics are about performance. [Their] perception is about visible results over time and scientific proof.” 

Fragrance for Preservation?

When asked if fragrance could potentially enhance cosmetics with added functionality, like preservation, Lafosse wasn’t sure it was the solution the cosmetics industry was looking for. “Fragrance might provide a different solution for a preservative in a product, but that doesn’t mean it’s the answer the industry wants,” she said. 

Getting Their Story Straight

Lara shared that where the two industries could work together is with their stories, especially sustainability. “Fragrance is known for being a waste-user industry,” he said. “We might be able to take waste from cosmetics and use it as a raw material for fragrance." 

“New technologies could lead to new discoveries…new ways to design alternatives that would help us to be more sustainable,” Lafosse added. 

“So, it comes back around to innovation,” Ramos said. “We look at one active ingredient or a molecule, and how it can encapsulate both industries." 

For more from this and other tracks at the 2016 World Perfumery Congress, visit PerfumerFlavorist.com.