
EPIONINE® Bio is an innovative active ingredient helping to develop formulas able to act on skin and mind well-being for a holistic approach to beauty. Its organic COSMOS certification, in combination with our molecular distillation process and our trusted partnership in China, guarantee perfect traceability and quality of this liposoluble active ingredient, listed under the INCI name Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil.
Meeting Consumer Demand for Well-being in Cosmetics
EPIONINE® Bio is a holistic active ingredient acting on skin and mind well-being. Dry and/or sensitive skin often experiences skin discomfort (tingling, tightness, etc.) which can impact overall well-being and lead to psychological stress or a degraded emotional state.
It is a vicious circle, as psychological stress can itself be a source of skin problems. In fact, about 40% of people with skin disorders also have mental health issues that are often related to their skin condition.1 This very strong correlation between skin and brain is driving brands toward a holistic approach to beauty and to develop products that act on consumers' moods by soothing both body and mind.
Efficacy and Dual Action
Scientifically demonstrating the impact of a cosmetic ingredient on the mind is particularly challenging, yet Laboratoires Expanscience, in collaboration with independent laboratories specialized in this field, successfully achieved it. These findings provide the cosmetics industry with valuable data to develop products that meet the growing demand for wellness beauty. The two complementary clinical studies performed with this active ingredient demonstrated its dual action on both skin and mind well-being.
Clinical Study on Psychological Well-being and Skin Discomfort
The first study was conducted on women with dry and/or sensitive skin who experienced psychological discomfort due to their skin condition (2 groups of 22 women, 1% EPIONINE® Bio vs placebo, 28 days). It confirmed complementary benefits:
One aspect of the study evaluated EPIONINE® Bio’s efficacy in relieving skin discomfort:
- Reduction of discomfort sensations measured on a sensitivity scale compared to placebo (tingling -74.2%*, burning -68.6%*, itching -60.2%*)
The second part focused on the mind-related benefits of EPIONINE® Bio.
It demonstrated a reduction in psychological stress and an improvement in overall well-being, notably assessed with the Mirror-Test™:
- Stress measured through vocal expression decreased by −88%* compared to placebo
- Heart rate variability (HRV), also referred to as cardiac coherence, improved by +50.3%* compared to placebo
- Verbatim analysis further highlighted the mind-level benefits: participants using EPIONINE® Bio reported a greater sense of well-being and overall comfort (“less discomfort****”, “feel better*”), while the placebo group mainly described skin-related effects (“hydrated**”, “smooth*”, “gentle*”).
Clinical Study on Skin Benefits and Stress-related Skin Impact
The second study, conducted on women with dry and/or sensitive skin experiencing physical discomfort (24 women, 1% EPIONINE® Bio, 28 days), confirmed the in vitro findings:
- Protects the skin from psychological stress by reducing cortisol levels in the skin (−25.2%$)
- Improves hydration (corneometry +25.1%$) and strengthens the barrier function (TEWL –34.8%*)
- Soothes the skin by reducing inflammation (IL1-α -89%*) and redness (a* -22.2%$, spectrophotometry)
Through its holistic approach, EPIONINE® Bio protects dry and sensitive skin from the IN & OUT stresses of daily life and offers a unique opportunity to develop formulations that will act on consumers' mood.
By breaking down the vicious circle, this liposoluble active ingredient is able to act on the "skin-brain" axis and enhance a feeling of global well-being.
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Statistical significance:
* p < 0.05 vs placebo
**p < 0.01 vs placebo
**** p < 0.0001 vs placebo
$p < 0.05 vs D0
Reference:
1 Mohammad Jafferany, MD, FAPA, executive director of the Association for Psychoneurocutaneous Medicine and a psychodermatologist, Everyday Health Magazine - 2023
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