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Read the Label: Toleriane Ultra Fluid

Contact Author Katerina Steventon, Ph.D., FaceWorkshops, LLC
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LaRocheToleriane850

La Roche-Posay's Toleriane Ultra Fluid claims to soothe, hydrate and restore long-lasting comfort to sensitive skin. Recommended for easily aggravated, combination to oily-prone skin, the lightweight hydrating formula is formulated with an anti-irritant blend of Neurosensine and the brand's Thermal Spring Water to relieve and calm the face. The product is packaged in unique ultra-hermetic packaging to maintain purity.

Claims and Results

The product touts immediate relief and lasting hydration, as follows: 

Skin is soothed in 1 minute and irritations are calmed.
 Provides 24 hr hydration,* and deep and long-lasting moisturizing effects up to 24 hr.



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Tests results regarding efficacy also are reported:

After 4 weeks:**


Reduction in skin reactivity: 46% stinging sensation
Reduction in discomfort: 
94% heat sensation
94% [improvement in] dryness
78% [improvement in] tightness



*Corneometer measurement, n = 24

**Cosmeto-clinical study under dermatological control, n = 46 women with sensitive skin, 4 weeks, 2 applications/day, morning and evening

Texture and Application

The product is described as having a light and fresh, non-oily texture. It is suitable for use in the eye contour area. Users are directed to apply the product to the face, eye contour and neck areas, morning and evening. The formula claims to be preservative-, paraben-, fragrance-, alcohol-, colorant- and lanolin-free.

This column will review the ingredient listing for claims substantiation and functionality.

The Base

The formula is a water-based emulsion containing, in its hydrophilic phase, the humectant glycerin and the solvents propanediol, butylene and pentylene glycol. The hydrophobic lipid phase is composed of the skin-conditioning, natural emollients squalane and shea butter (obtained from the African tree fruit Butyrospermum parkii).

Silicone-based polymers dimethicone and dimethiconol condition the skin and give a better aesthetic feel to the formulation, while polymethylsilsesquioxane has an opacifying effect. Polysorbate 20 is a surfactant, and viscosity is controlled by: the hydrophilic glyceryl acrylate/ acrylic acid copolymer; aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, an absorbent; and ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide.

Disodium EDTA serves as the chelating agent and the formula is, indeed, preservative-free (as supported by the packaging) and fragrance-free.

Actives

The active ingredient, Neurosensin (Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester), has a calming effect on sensitive skin and has been proven to alleviate capsaicin-induced burn in a controlled, randomized, split-face study. The ingredient has, however, shown slower and less pronounced soothing effects in head-to-head comparisons.1

Conclusions

In my view, the ingredients support the claims for soothing and moisturization due in part to humectant, emollient and occlusive activity. There is also some clinical evidence of a soothing effect for both the formula (both available from the manufacturer) and the active ingredient (from a competitor study).

One added consideration with products recommended for sensitive skin is the degree to which the user experiences sensitivity.

Ingredients: Water (aqua), Glycerin, Squalane, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Acrylate/ Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dimethiconol, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide, Disodium EDTA, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester.

Reference

1. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26805418

 

Source: laroche-posay.com/products-treatments/Toleriane/Toleriane-Ultra-Fluide-p24055.aspx

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