Since chronic inflammation is generally believed to play an important role in skin aging, Mibelle Biochemistry has developed a water-dispersible active powder based on magnolia bark extract to protect against inflammation. MAXnolia (INCI: Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract (and) Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract (and) Tocopherol (and) Lecithin (and) Maltodextrin (and) Water (aqua)) also is said to neutralize internal skin factors and reduce redness.
Magnolia bark contains two anti-inflammatory substances, magnolol and honokiol, which reportedly inhibit the activation of NF-KB, a key mediator in both inflammatory and aging processes. However, with age, the immune system becomes less effective and inflammatory activity increases. This can lead to chronic inflammation characterized by a slow but continuous production of free radicals that in turn, cause wrinkles and sagging skin.
Although magnolol and honokiol exhibit low solubility in water, the company has developed a technique to make a magnolia preparation that is both water-dispersible and rich in these active compounds. In vivo studies have shown that the compund also reduces facial skin redness and improves the hydration and visco-elastic properties of the skin, notably on the crow’s feet area.
The compound is recommended at 0.1–0.5 % in: antiaging products for face and eye contour, protective formulas and anti-redness skin care. The compound can be dissoved in the aqueous phase or pre-dispersed in up to 20% in water and added to formulations during the cooling phase (< 60°C). Temperatures of up to 80°C for a short time do not affect the stability of the compound.