Current Issue cover

Givaudan Active Beauty Ingredient Amps Up Self-tanners

Contact Author Brooke Schleehauf
Fill out my online form.
Woman with wet hair and tan skin in pool

For an intense but effortless tan, formulators can look to Givaudan Active Beauty’s new Vegetan Evolve (INCI: Erythrulose (and) Water (aqua)). The ingredient reportedly provides a long-lasting and natural effect to self-tanner formulations.

The new ingredient is based on erythrulose, which has the same properties as DHA, the reference molecule for self-tanning. This triggers the Maillard reaction to produce melanoids, or brown compounds, which link to the skin’s proteins to create a tanning effect within hours.

According to the company, this process enables a more controlled reaction with the skin, making the ingredient “ideal in association with DHA” for increased consumer benefits. Additionally, the supplier’s studies found the ingredient to provide a longer-lasting, more natural and darker tan color.

Vegetan Evolve utilizes sustainable white biotechnology, which is also used to create Givaudan Active Beauty’s DHA-including ingredients in the supplier’s Vegetan range. The company suggest adding a few drops of Vegetan Evolve at the end of the formulation process to operate in synergy with other ingredients in the line.

The new ingredient leverages the growing self-tanning market—plus the rising power of online influencers. According to data reported by Givaudan, 58% of U.S. female beauty consumers were encouraged to buy certain sunless tanning products over social media.

Vegetan Evolve was presented at SCS Formulate, held in Coventry, U.K., from Nov. 13-14, 2018.

Related Content



Next image >