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Microbial Pore and Skin Texture Control, Plus Pure Emolliency

Contact Author Rachel Grabenhofer
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Nobel-winning and sea anemone-related microbes to refine pores and even out skin texture, plus a pure, Asian-skin friendly humectant and emollient, were highlighted by Seqens during in-cosmetics Global in Paris.

Microbe-powered Pore Control

Megabiotic-44 (INCI: Lactobacillus), a pre- and post-biotic complex, is based on a Nobel prize-winning microorganism: GLB44. This microorganism is used in foods in its viable form to help preserve freshness, and as a food supplement to enhance health. Research also shows GLB44 has action against stomach cancer, for which it received the Nobel Prize in Medicine in 2005.

From this, a cosmetically targeted complex was developed, including plant culture medium (carrot juice) as well as post-biotic bactericide peptides and inactivated GLB-44. According to the company, when topically applied these entities are capable of refining pores; here, the GLB-44 was applied in its inactive form, which maintains its probiotically produced bactericide peptides.

Clinical tests demonstrated 1% of the ingredient in a formulation significantly reduced the number of visible pores, together with pore size, after 28 days, versus the placebo. These improvements were linked to a significant increase of skin microbe Staphylococcus epidermidis.

Furthmore, in addition to modulating the skin microbiome, it could also affect bacterial strains related to product preservation, such as: Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Propionibacterium acnes.

Sea Anemone-related Polysaccharide for Skin Texture

Glycuron 2.78 (INCI: Alteromonas Ferment Extract) is a high molecular weight (4 million Da) polysaccharide, rich in uronic acid, that is produced via biotechnology. This particular Alteromonas sp strain is collected in Moorea sea lagoon in association with a sea anemone.

This exopolysaccharide demontrates unique physicochemical properties. It is liquid at 0.5% in water and is capable of enhancing sensory characteristics in formulas. Its glycobiological efficacy was determined thanks to a lectin-array technology, which is used to determine saccharidic patterns that can interact with cell lectins.

Indeed, Glycuron 2.78 was found to interact with DC-sign lectin and the rhamnose receptor, respectively involved in inflammation and dermo-epidermal regeneration. Clinical tests using the ingredient at 1% in a cream, versus a placebo, showed statistically significant results in favor of the ingredient for hydration, skin evenness and texture after 28 days of use.

Perhaps more interesting, however, were the results from measurements of the ingredient's impact on the user's emotion, versus a placebo. Based on Spincontrol's Emospin technique, which uses the measurement of prosody (i.e., voice loundness and frequency) and verbatim, the study showed the Glycuron 2.78 cream significantly enhanced the user's perception of self image as well as their perception of others' perceptions of them. The placebo, on the other hand, did not generate any significant change in prosody or verbatim.

Gentle and Pure Emolliency

Besides active ingredients, Seqens Cosmetics functional care, formerly Chemoxy, launched ChemoxyCare 6 (INCI: 1,2-Hexanediol). This nonsensitizing ingredient has a light feel, which according to the company, is especially adapted to Asian skin.

ChemoxyCare 6 reportedly is an excellent humectant and emollient, and shows good preservative-boosting properties. Finally, the ingredient is described as presenting best- in-class purity and organoleptic properties, being odorless and colorless, and is highly scalable in sizes starting from 25 KG.

For more information, visit the company website.

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