Gattefossé’s EleVastin (INCI: Betaine (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Propanediol (and) Murraya Koenigii Stem Extract) is designed as a targeted solution to strengthen the elasticity of the skin, giving it the support needed to fight gravity-induced wrinkles.
According to Gattefossé, EleVastin has been shown to boost key proteins involved in the synthesis and maintenance of functional elastic fibers: elastin, fibrillin-1 and fibulin-5. It also protects elastic fibers against degradation by elastases. Through these mechanisms, the active both increases the density of elastic fibers and augments skin elasticity.
Tested at 1% on 37 volunteers, the ingredient was evaluated by measuring its ability to counteract the effects of gravity on facial morphology. Results showed it reduced drooping of the lower face. Skin elasticity also was significantly improved versus the placebo, facial contours were better defined, and deep vertical wrinkles were reduced.
The synergistic phytomolecules behind the ingredient are obtained using a blend of solvents from plant origin and a specific extraction process. According to the company, this results in 100% natural origin content, according to ISO 16128, and a COSMOS-approved ingredient.
“The phytochemical content of Murraya koenigii has made it possible to adopt a methodical research strategy for plant extraction,” said Boris Vogelgesang, R&D director of cosmetic actives. “By adjusting the polarity of the solvents, we have been able to target certain molecular families, such as flavonoids, phenolic acids or alkaloids. In parallel, in our laboratories, and also in partnership with experts in proteomics and biomechanics, we have developed in vitro evaluation models. This enabled us to achieve a very comprehensive demonstration of the biological efficacy.”
“In our cell culture laboratory, our scientists develop in vitro models that closely resemble real skin conditions,” added Laurie Canel, product marketing leader of personal care actives. “The reproducibility of the results obtained with EleVastin on different types of skin models is a true assurance of the ingredient’s efficacy. Its naturality profile is the outcome of years of research, fine-tuning solvent compositions and searching for a fit with plant material. We are proud to provide the cosmetic market with this natural active ingredient.”