Seppic Stirs the Senses with DIY Cosmetic Mixology, Emogreen HP 40 Emollient

The two Cosmetic Mixology bases can be customized by consumers with actives that are easy to find at home to meet face, hair or body care needs.
The two Cosmetic Mixology bases can be customized by consumers with actives that are easy to find at home to meet face, hair or body care needs.

Seppic stirs the senses with its Cosmetic Mixology formula concepts for do-it-yourself (DIY) personal care (see below for video demo), and its green and sustainable Emogreen HP 40 emollient (INCI [submitted]: C15-19 Alkane* & Hydrogenated Polyfarnesene*).

DIY Formula Concepts

According to the company, the DIY trend has seen a resurgence with the pandemic, especially in cosmetics with a natural and wellness dimension, and focused on human health and safety. Today's consumers also seek transparency and simplicity, and find reassurance in products adapted and personalized to their needs and desires.

In response, Seppic launched its Cosmetic Mixology concept, which includes two formulas. These are designed to offer a safe and simplified customizable solution for consumers who are not always aware of the risks and constraints of home-made cosmetic formulation.

The formulas offer two different sensory profiles: a creamy base and a gel-cream base.

Creamy base: Emulsion stability and robustness are provided by the emulsifier Montanov 202 (INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside), and two polymers, Solagum AX (INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Xanthan Gum) and Sepimax Zen (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6), to enhance the formula's resistance to electrolyte-rich actives. This minimalist formula also contains Emogreen L15 (INCI: C15-19 Alkane), an emollient for sensory comfort, and Aquaxyl (INCI: Xylitylglucoside (and) Anhydroxylitol (and) Xylitol), an essential sugar-based moisturizing agent.

Gel-cream base: This customizable "solid pebble" is rehydrated to form a fresh gel with a light touch. The Solagum Tara (INCI: Caesalpinia Spinsosa Gum) and Sepimax Zen polymer pairing forms a fresh, watery gel-cream and strengthens the formula's resistance to electrolyte-rich actives. Three additional ingredients were added for various effects: Emogreen L19 (INCI: C15-19 Alkane), an emollient for sensory comfort; Sepifine BB (INCI: Amylopectin), a texturizing agent to provide softness; and the Aquaxyl for moisturization.   

According to the company, these two bases can be customized by consumers with actives that are easy to find at home to meet face, hair or body care needs; for example, lemon juice for a radiance face mask; coffee grounds for a body scrub; and pomegranate vinegar for all-in-one hair care (see below video demo). These three were among 10 actives with different profiles, e.g., viscosity, pH, presence of electrolytes, solubility, etc., tested in the formulas to ensure their robustness.

Bio-based Emollient

Emogreen HP 40 is a new bio-based and sustainable emollient that extends Seppic's Emogreen range. Obtained by a patented process, the ingredient is textured and slightly viscous. It is designed to offers an effective alternative to heavy silicones, mineral oils and other synthetic emollients. The 100% plant-based ingredient is inherently biodegradable and offers a solution for a more virtuous environmental footprint.   

Versatile as a texturizing ingredient, Emogreen HP 40 imparts film-forming properties and has a reported smooth, enveloping and supple after-feel and no tacky effect. The ingredient is recommended for applications ranging from skin care and makeup, to sun care and more.

In hair care, in particular, it demonstrates thermal protection performance equal to silicones (dimethicone/dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane/dimethiconol)**, preserving the keratin structure. Additional benefits include anti-frizz effects, volume control and easy combing, thanks to the product’s substantivity to the hair fiber and its ability to smooth the hair scales.   

Other key benefits include its compatibility in formulations ease of use and cold processability, further supporting eco-responsible concepts. With this new launch, Seppic aims to consolidate its position as a CSR leading supplier in the challenging hair care market.   

Jennifer Fryscher, emollients product manager of the company, stated: “Emogreen HP 40 widens the field of possibilities of responsible and sustainable formulation in the hair care industry seeking to meet the challenge of strong efficacy demands and custom-made care."  

*Plant-based and renewable. 

**Thermal protection assessments were made of Emogreen HP 40 alone and in formulation through the measurement of keratin deterioration by Xpolar technology (Kmax Innovative System) on healthy Caucasian hair after 50 passes of heat treatment at 210°C.  

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