Naturality and sustainability have been rising for many years and have become unavoidable. One of the big technical challenges is the replacement of silicones with more environmentally friendly products offering the same level of performance.
Seppic’s Emogreen™ line has been offering alternatives to light silicones so far and was tested versus various grades of traditionally used ingredients in hair care such as dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane or phenyl trimethicone. In particular, Emogreen™ L15 and Emogreen™ L19 demonstrated significant results and relevance as performant, sustainable and readily biodegradable alternatives.
Recently, the Seppic innovation team developed a new emollient, Emogreen™ HP 40 (INCI: C15-19 Alkane* - Hydrogenated Polyfarnesene* *(Plant-based & Renewable)), based on a new innovative and bio-based molecule, hydrogenated polyfarnesene. Highly viscous, just like dimethiconol, it presents very interesting properties to replace dimethiconol-based blends. Combined with bio-based C15-19 alkane to make it easier to manipulate, it creates the ideal sustainable and 100% natural alternative to viscous silicones.
Hair Care Market
Tested on damaged Caucasian hair, Emogreen™ HP 40 demonstrated similar covering properties to dimethicone/dimethiconol (DMD). Thermal protective tests on healthy hair tresses with the pure raw material and with a hair serum containing 3% of Emogreen™ HP 40 versus DMD were found to have a significant gain of protection of the inner structure of the hair keratin, in particular, a +38% and +22% increase was found, respectively.
A triangle test also revealed a comparable sensorial profile with DMD. Expert panelists were not able to differentiate the tresses treated with Emogreen™ HP 40 or DMD in a rinse-off hair mask on criteria such as easy combing, gloss and gliding. Finally, tested on volume control and curl definition of natural Brazilian hair in a hair serum, Emogreen™ HP 40 demonstrated even better results than cyclopentasiloxane/dimethiconol and the placebo.
Picture - Volume control & curl definition
(A = non treated, B = treated with a placebo hair serum, C = treated with a hair serum incl. 3% C15-19 alkane/hydrogenated polyfarnesene, D = treated with a hair serum incl. 3% cyclopentasiloxane/dimethiconol)
Makeup Market
Tested at 42.5% in a liquid lipstick versus hydrogenated polyisobutene at the same concentration, Emogreen™ HP 40 was rated less sticky in formulation by a panel of five esthetician panelists. The color intensity was also assessed on the same formula according to the specular component excluded (SCE) method.
Hydrogenated polyisobutene was considered as the reference material. No significant difference was observed, thus highlighting Emogreen™ HP 40 as a relevant sustainable alternative offering color intensity and comfort on lips.
Sun Care Market
Tested in an SPF 30 sunscreen formulation at 2% versus VP/Eicosene Copolymer, the water resistance was measured in vitro after 20 and 40 min. The formula with Emogreen™ HP 40 provided the same water resistance performance as the one with VP/Eicosene Copolymer.
Emogreen™ HP 40 completes the line of silicone alternatives that Seppic offers so far. It is a versatile texturized ingredient that brings sensoriality and performance thanks to its film-forming properties, thus making it of interest for various applications such as hair care, makeup, sun care but also skin care.
Its inert and non-polar structure makes it very stable and easy to formulate and is compatible with a large variety of oily phases. It is inherently biodegradable and a relevant 100% bio-based alternative to dimethiconol blends offering the same and in some cases, even better performance. Further investigations will be made to complete its performance profile.
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