During the IFSCC 2025 Congress, held Sept. 15-18 in Cannes, biotech startup Kokuma srl debuted Tonasulike-D, a novel active ingredient for visibly reducing hyperpigmentation and enhancing skin radiance. Discovered using Kokuma’s proprietary AI-driven platform, the ingredient is designed to deliver maximum results at a remarkably low 0.01% concentration while being safe and effective for all tested skin types.
How Tonasulike-D Works: Synergistic Dual-Action Mechanisms
Tonasulike-D — or glucuronyl glucosyloleanolate, a saponin isolated from Traditional Chinese Medicine — utilizes a dual-action approach that distinguishes it from traditional depigmenting agents.
- First, it downregulates enzymes such as tyrosinase that are involved in melanin synthesis, reducing pigment production at the source.
- Second, it inhibits the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes by modulating key cellular pathways, such as NF-κB signaling.
This synergistic upstream and downstream activity ensures more even, brighter skin without irritation or sensitivity, effectively addressing both the creation and transfer of dark pigment.
Clinical Pigmentation and Brightness Results
The ingredient's efficacy was validated in a 12-week, randomized, single-blind clinical study involving 60 volunteers (skin types III-V, ages 30-75).
Key findings include:
- 100% of participants showed a measurable reduction in pigmentation and enhanced skin brightness by week eight.
- First visible improvements appeared as early as day 21, with benefits increasing through week 12.
- A 17% average reduction in pigmentation of dark spots and a more even skin tone (ITA measurement) in Caucasian and Asian subjects.
- Up to a 24% increase in skin brightness (ITA) in Black skin by week 12.
In addition, in vitro studies demonstrated an 86% reduction in melanin production in human melanocytes, while ex vivo tests saw a 45% reduction in melanin content in human skin explants.
AI Discovery Process
Kokuma’s AI platform combines pharmaceutical-style predictive modeling, public and proprietary data, and in-depth machine learning analysis to identify novel biological targets involved in skin pigmentation.
As Yannick Quesnel, Ph.D., chief scientific officer and co-founder of Kokuma explained, using advanced algorithms, researchers rapidly screened and evaluated thousands of potential compounds for properties like solubility, skin penetration, safety and efficacy. From this process, Tonasulike-D emerged as the top-performing molecule.
Raising the Bar While Lowering the Active Dose
"Powered by AI and rigorous science, Tonasulike-D raises the bar for safe skin brightening,” said Quesnel, who emphasized the ingredient delivers clinically proven brightening at doses far lower than traditional actives, making it highly compatible with a wide range of skin care, face and body formulations.
