Until now, anti-dandruff formulators mainly have had three effective actives to utilize: zinc pyrithione, climbazole and piroctone olamine. A new addition by Symrise, however, offers a 100% bio-based solution via a novel mechanism.
Crinipan PMC green (INCI: Not Provided) is a bio-based anti-dandruff active that shows comparable results to these established actives. Its clinically proven efficacy is activated by the dandruff-causing yeast Malassezia itself. According to Symrise, this opens up a completely new approach to dandruff control. BSB 2020 Awards organizers appear to agree, as the ingredient recently won first place for the most innovative active in the category for scalp/skin barrier/redness.
“More than 45 years of expertise in the area of micro-protection [has enabled] us to launch Crinipan PMC green," explained Christin Koch, Ph.D., head of microbiology research at the Global Innovation Cosmetic Ingredients division of Symrise. "We also thank Professor Dr. Peter Mayser, a renowned dermatologist and dedicated expert in Malassezia research for his constant support during our joint research project with the University of Giessen on dandruff."
“Developing products like Crinipan PMC green is in line with the Symrise corporate sustainability strategy,” added Florian Genrich, Ph.D., senior global product manager for skin protection at Symrise. “In the future, we are going to continue our path of developing more and more natural ingredients to serve our customers' and consumers' needs.”
In a clinical study, it was shown that the ingredient not only is effective against dandruff but promotes a healthy scalp microbiome.
Applying the ingredient to test subjects with dandruff resulted in a healthier ratio of two dominant species of scalp bacteria. This finding is based on ex vivo samples that Symrise researchers took from the scalp of study participants, before and after a 30-day application of Crinipan PMC green. It was found the substance is suitable for use in many types of dandruff control and scalp care products.
Scientific literature reports that besides the relevance of Malassezia yeast in dandruff formation, bacteria may seem to play a bigger role than assumed in the past. The ratio of propionibacteria to staphylococci on a healthy scalp favors propionibacteria, while the opposite applies to the scalp with dandruff.
Symrise has now discovered that the application of Crinipan PMC green is supporting a shift in bacterial balance, promoting a healthier scalp. At the same time, the researchers observed the opposite effect on the scalps treated with a placebo product.
For more information, contact Symrise.