LibraGen has launched a purified, stable, Ecocert-approved oleuropein derivative that imparts antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory benefits to skin care formulations. Inoveol OLEU (INCI: Oleuropeinyl Glucoside) is said to have the same UV absorption properties as natural oleuropein but with improved water solubility and stability. The active is produced through the enzymatic processing of oleuropein from olive tree leaves.
Specifically, in comparison with natural oleuropein, the derivative reportedly is more stable and three times more water soluble; the derivative has a water solubility of > 100 g/L, whereas natural oleuropein has a water solubility of 3 g/L. The company also found that while natural oleuropein degrades quickly with time, the oleuropein derivative is more stable at both chemical and optical levels. Tests utilizing 0.5% of the active inhibited nearly 47% of the Nf-κB inflammatory response of cultured cells induced with interleukin-1β (IL-1β).
The company also reported that 0.1% of the active inhibited nearly 56% of IL-8 release from human normal keratinocytes induced by IL-1β. Further, the active also is said to inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) expression and production, which leads to the collapse of the extracellular matrix.
The active is recommended at 0.1–0.5% in skin care, eye contouring products, lip care and products for sensitive skin. It is a sterile concentrated water solution at 50 g/L that does not contain solvents or preservatives. The material can be formulated below pH 6.0 in emulsions (o/w, w/o) and water-based products. For cold processes, the active should be dissolved into the aqueous phase. In hot/cold processes, it should be added during the cooling phase, below 30°C. Finally, homogenization and temperatures of up to 40°C, over short periods of time, do not affect the stability of the active.